Hard wiring a 12v connection to 2 6v Escape batteries?

Anne H · 03-02-2018, 02:12 PM

I have a TPMS signal booster that I'd like to hard wire to my trailer batteries (recommended in user manual).
My sense is that I should connect to the negative on one battery and the positive on the second battery.
Does this sound correct?

PGDriver · 03-02-2018, 02:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anne H

I have a TPMS signal booster that I'd like to hard wire to my trailer batteries (recommended in user manual).
My sense is that I should connect to the negative on one battery and the positive on the second battery.
Does this sound correct?

Yes that is correct.

Cheers
Doug

Ron in BC · 03-02-2018, 02:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anne H

I have a TPMS signal booster

What brand do you have and what is the stated range?

Ron

Anne H · 03-02-2018, 03:02 PM

Tire Master - 12v-24v. They recommended wiring to the house battery or an always hot 12v wire.

**John in Santa Cruz** · 03-02-2018, 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anne H

Tire Master - 12v-24v. They recommended wiring to the house battery or an always hot 12v wire.

I'd probably put it up high in the front of the trailer, and wire it to the power for a nearby light.

cpaharley2008 · 03-02-2018, 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

I'd probably put it up high in the front of the trailer, and wire it to the power for a nearby light.

That would not be as good as direct to the battery.....

**John in Santa Cruz** · 03-02-2018, 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

That would not be as good as direct to the battery.....

A radio transmitter uses very little power and putting it in the front top of the camper shell would greatly improve the radio propagation to the cab of the tow vehicle.

Anne H · 03-02-2018, 06:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

A radio transmitter uses very little power and putting it in the front top of the camper shell would greatly improve the radio propagation to the cab of the tow vehicle.

The instructions recommended putting it on the undercarriage if possible ( but the also said it would be ok on a king pin or inside for a coach. Going directly to the batteries seems more straightforward to me - it's all open and clearly labeled!

AKCamper · 03-02-2018, 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anne H

I have a TPMS signal booster that I'd like to hard wire to my trailer batteries (recommended in user manual).
My sense is that I should connect to the negative on one battery and the positive on the second battery.
Does this sound correct?

I would hook a multimeter in series with your hookup to see how many amps or milliamperes it draws. Like the propane detector it may not draw too many, but it may draw your batteries down if not unhooked.

Anne H · 03-02-2018, 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AKCamper

I would hook a multimeter in series with your hookup to see how many amps or milliamperes it draws. Like the propane detector it may not draw too many, but it may draw your batteries down if not unhooked.

Documentation says it draws 75mA when transmitting and 14mA when inactive.
I did think that I might wire in a shut-off switch (or just disconnect it if I store the trailer).

Patandlinda · 03-03-2018, 12:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anne H

Documentation says it draws 75mA when transmitting and 14mA when inactive.
I did think that I might wire in a shut-off switch (or just disconnect it if I store the trailer).

If yours has a fuse , we just pulll the fuse out . Pat

**John in Santa Cruz** · 03-03-2018, 03:01 AM

75mA is 0.075 amps. with the 200AH+ of your dual golf cart batteries, that would take about 2 months to discharge your battery to 50%. if its 0.015 amps when idle and only transmits brief pulses, then even longer, like a lot longer.

rubicon327 · 03-03-2018, 06:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anne H

Tire Master - 12v-24v. They recommended wiring to the house battery or an always hot 12v wire.

Do you happen to mean TireMinder? I was trying to look up the system and no luck.

Anne H · 03-03-2018, 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Do you happen to mean TireMinder? I was trying to look up the system and no luck.

Yes - and I even checked before typing!! Maybe I can blame it on auto-correct.

rubicon327 · 03-03-2018, 09:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anne H

Yes - and I even checked before typing!! Maybe I can blame it on auto-correct.

Since you have a 19 I would consider wiring it up to the power center DC board at the front of the trailer. The unit can reside under the dinette bench, it will have constant power while towing, will have it’s own fuse and will be isolated by the batttery cut off switch for storage. Just like the 12V exterior outlet I just wired I don’t see any advantage to going direct to the battery.

Ron in BC · 03-03-2018, 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Since you have a 19 I would consider wiring it up to the power center DC board at the front of the trailer. The unit can reside under the dinette bench, it will have constant power while towing, will have it’s own fuse and will be isolated by the batttery cut off switch for storage. Just like the 12V exterior outlet I just wired I don’t see any advantage to going direct to the battery.

I'm with you on that. Aside from an inverter I don't like anything else connected to the battery. Misc. wires connected directly directly to the battery, hopefully each with misc. inline fuse, and no disconnect are my idea of mickey mouse wiring.

Everything I add starts from a panel fuse and is switched. No live, direct to the battery wires for me.

Ron

**John in Santa Cruz** · 03-03-2018, 03:05 PM

yeah, only thing I'd direct connect to the battery is a solar charge controller. and a high current inverter, if its DC input requirements exceed those of the fuse panel.

rubicon327 · 03-03-2018, 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

yeah, only thing I'd direct connect to the battery is a solar charge controller. and a high current inverter, if its DC input requirements exceed those of the fuse panel.

The only other thing I would add that might go direct to the battery is if someone had a tracking device. The SPOT Trace module for example needs constant power. This would then allow the use of the battery cut off switch too without affecting the power to this device.

War Eagle · 03-03-2018, 11:42 PM

Isn't a powered tongue jack wired directly? And the electric emergency brake system?

**rbryan4** · 03-04-2018, 12:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by War Eagle

Isn't a powered tongue jack wired directly? And the electric emergency brake system?

My power jack is wired directly, but that's just because it was easier due to the battery location in the storage box of my 19. You could wire it to use one of the circuits so it would be fuse protected, but mine came with an inline fuse so no matter. The emergency brakes would always be directly wired to battery, but only because you want them to always have power in case of a breakaway. If they were fused, and the fuse was blown, and then there would be no emergency brakes in the event of a breakway, no?

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