Headliner Separation and Sagging

[Daubsy]

Hi Jay,
We are having the same problem in the front of our trailer, above the dinette. Ours is a bit older (2009) that we purchased used. It was like this when we picked it up, and most likely due to the heat from being stored outside in the sun. We too live in Austin and are interested in finding a fix. I like the idea of combining adhesive with some sort of ceiling fixture that will help secure it in place.

[rbryan4]

My uncle and I used this product to restore a headliner on his 57 Chevy.

Amazon.com: 3M 08090 Yellow Super Trim Adhesive - 19 oz.: Automotive

Several years later, and its still well adhered. The vehicle sits in direct sunlight much of the time. I think its designed for high heat environments. I would not recommend 3M 77.

[Ruthe]

This will sound dumb but what is the headliner

[Ruthe]

Never mind ..just figured it out

[NW Cat Owner]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

This separation is VERY common with all molded towables, of any age. Just read the archives on FiberglassRV. OH my stars.

There's lots of folks asking about attaching "stuff" to the walls and then I READ where folks need to reattach the headliner.

THIS is NOT your sticks and bricks home. IMHO do NOT try to attach anything to the vinyl wall covering. Some time down the line, you'll be asking "how do I reattach the vinyl."

If that's true, then what's the point of getting reinforced walls to hang hooks, TV mounts, etc from? I'm more than a bit confused now. thanks

[drpaddle]

Originally Posted by NW Cat Owner

If that's true, then what's the point of getting reinforced walls to hang hooks, TV mounts, etc from? I'm more than a bit confused now. thanks

The walls that can be reinforced are interior walls -- the ones with the oak paneling. The vinyl-coated walls of the shell aren't usually reinforced. (I don't know if it's possible, but I haven't yet seen it done).

Not a problem for most, as the oak walls seem to provide plenty of real estate for hooks, tv mounts, etc.

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by Klem

Food for thought, Hot Rod folks have metal roofs which probably transfer more heat then 1/8" of fiberglass? If it works for them it should work on the trailer?


Best aerosol spray adhesive? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board


Good idea to check with Reace and please let us know what you find out.

Good point, also any body shop that knows how to put on a vinyl roof on a car. They still do that for vehicles being restored from the late 1950s-1980s.

[maurerl]

Originally Posted by drpaddle

The walls that can be reinforced are interior walls -- the ones with the oak paneling. The vinyl-coated walls of the shell aren't usually reinforced. (I don't know if it's possible, but I haven't yet seen it done).

Our used 17B has very obvious reinforcing under the vinyl wall covering on the front wall of the trailer, where the hinged backrest/upper bunk is attached. Ditto against the rear wall of the trailer where the brackest for the non-pedestal-type dinette table attaches.

Happy travels (and problem-free mods)

[gbaglo]

If you don't have the bunk option, you won't have a reinforced wall.

[Dave&Kathie]

Our son has a 94 13 ft Scamp. The headliner was sagging in the rear corner. Tried several spray adhesives with no luck, finally tried the 3M90 mentioned here and it has adhered for several years now. If it sags again I will tell him about the 3M super trim adhesive.

Give ETI a call or email - see what they recommend.

Kathie

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by drpaddle

The vinyl-coated walls of the shell aren't usually reinforced. (I don't know if it's possible, but I haven't yet seen it done).

They are reinforced for specific features of the trailer, but not to serve as mounting surfaces for miscellaneous stuff. The reinforcement for paneled interior walls is plywood under the visible panel; that wouldn't work on the shell with all of those curves.

[KarenH]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

They are reinforced for specific features of the trailer, but not to serve as mounting surfaces for miscellaneous stuff. The reinforcement for paneled interior walls is plywood under the visible panel; that wouldn't work on the shell with all of those curves.

Yes, I had an extra drop-down table mounted on the wall next to my door and the support for that was glassed in during the initial process.

[Klem]

Anyone sticking up their headliner successfully? Anyone check with ETI for solutions?

I noticed that the front area has some large bubbles.. Pushing them up they stick for a few minutes in some places and then fall back down. Some spots have no sticky feeling.

I'm going to add a light for an anchor point for sure.

[Jubal]

Originally Posted by Klem

Anyone sticking up their headliner successfully? Anyone check with ETI for solutions?

I noticed that the front area has some large bubbles.. Pushing them up they stick for a few minutes in some places and then fall back down. Some spots have no sticky feeling.

I'm going to add a light for an anchor point for sure.

On a 2014 19' , wouldn't this headliner sagging problem be covered under the "full two year warranty" ?

[Scuba55]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

This seperation is VERY common with all molded towables, of any age. Just read the archives on FiberglassRV. OH my stars.

There's lots of folks asking about attaching "stuff" to the walls and then I READ where folks need to reattach the headliner.

THIS is NOT your sticks and bricks home. IMHO do NOT try to attach anything to the vinyl wall covering. Some time down the line, you'll be asking "how do I reattach the vinyl."

If and when the time comes for Ten Forward, I'll use whatever an automotive mechanic suggests for reattaching a headliner or vinyl roof... those folks are used to dealing with heat... or temperature swings.

Good advice, Donna!

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by Jubal

On a 2014 19' , wouldn't this headliner sagging problem be covered under the "full two year warranty" ?

One would think so. I'm wondering how many others are having the same problem.

Ron

[Brian B-P]

While it's true that one should not attach stuff to the liner, the member with the problem did not attach anything to the headliner, so that's not the problem, despite suggestions otherwise. I can't remember anyone in this forum ever saying that they had attached anything to the liner in an Escape (unlike older eggs with much harder Ensolite lining discussed in FiberglassRV); lots of stuff on Escape paneling, but not on the liner.

Since this is a manufacturing issue, rather than a component defect, I agree that seems like an Escape warranty issue within the warranty period.

[KarenH]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

One would think so. I'm wondering how many others are having the same problem.

Ron

No problems here but the OP lives in Texas so I'm thinking this is a climate/temperature issue. I agree that it should be covered under warranty but maybe the fix is an easy one.

[Klem]

Originally Posted by Jubal

On a 2014 19' , wouldn't this headliner sagging problem be covered under the "full two year warranty" ?

Good question, I would guess it should be as we have only had it 1 year and it happened on our first trip south. But I'd rather just do it myself and insure it's done correctly, this will be a chronic problem that only gets worse in time.

It seems to me that the only way to fix it would be to pull down the entire ceiling and use the proper heat resistant adhesive. The correct adhesive for the application is available, and the problem is commonly known. There can be failure of the foam and/or adhesive, in this case I can feel the foam is attached to the Reflectix and it's the Reflectix that has come loose from the ceiling.

I'm hoping someone posts a clever solution that works! My plan is to install Scamp like 'rat fur' to decrease the condensation problems from the vinyl and easy cold transfer to that surface. I had a Scamp for years and called them to talk over the excessive condensation in our new trailer. They explained that's why they use the 'rat fur' because the length and number of fibers don't present a flat cold surface for the condensation.

I was going to add the rat fur to the existing vinyl and glad I'm aware of this problem prior to attaching more weight to the hanging surface. Maybe I'll just have to replace the interior .... or hopefully someone will come up with a way to 'tack' it back to the fiberglass. Those solar panel bolts could be 'double duty' holding the things on top of the fiberglass down .. and things on the inside up

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Klem

My plan is to install Scamp like 'rat fur' to decrease the condensation problems from the vinyl and easy cold transfer to that surface. I had a Scamp for years and called them to talk over the excessive condensation in our new trailer. They explained that's why they use the 'rat fur' because the length and number of fibers don't present a flat cold surface for the condensation.

The area of fibers probably makes the water on it less apparent; I don't see how it would reduce the amount of water condensed, because that depends on the water content in the air and the temperature of the surface.

The Scamp people know what they're doing, but I'm not convinced that they always understand why they're doing it. Who knows if anyone there really remembers why they choose this fabric four decades ago?

Originally Posted by Klem

I was going to add the rat fur to the existing vinyl and glad I'm aware of this problem prior to attaching more weight to the hanging surface.

If you want to test whether or not a different fabric would help condensation, before facing the issue of holding it up, you could place just a test patch on an area that won't be a support issue but is still in comparable conditions. Is there an area of outside wall in a cabinet that doesn't have Escape's lining and could be left open for a test (you need inside air to circulate over it)? If you just add rat fur over the Escape lining that area will get less condensation, just because it is a bit better insulated by the extra layer and thus not as cold.