Hot fiberglass above water heater vent

[cpaharley2008]

I wonder if you switched to electric if you have that option, would the issue go away?

[JeffreyG]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

I wonder if you switched to electric if you have that option, would the issue go away?

Electric only, no gas? Probably, but then the recovery time for the hot water would be terrible.

[JeffreyG]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

That to me doesn’t look good . If mine I would have a deflector above to reflect the heat . Ask Escape if you can get one or make something . Many of us can help you out with pictures . Did they remove it for looks ? Recently just watched a fiberglass boat ,a new one go up in flames real fast . Can find on you tube , Barefoot doctors . Scared the heck out of me . I would be proactive in this but that is just me . Pat

I don't follow what you are saying.

The hot air comes out of the vent area (the metal mesh) in the water heater door (the part that flips down). I placed a piece of tinfoil in the door gap to evaluate what a small flap would do. It was just a test, and it worked.

I can effect the same fix by fabricating a small heat deflector and attaching it to the water heater door above the opening with a few rivets.

I'll take some pictures once I make this.

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by JeffreyG

Electric only, no gas? Probably, but then the recovery time for the hot water would be terrible.

No, I meant once the water reached it's operating temperature, switch to electric to maintain that setting.

[rbryan4]

I wonder why they stopped installing the deflector? All the classics I've seen (mine included) seem to have it.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

No, I meant once the water reached it's operating temperature, switch to electric to maintain that setting.

Not sure that is really a viable solution especially since many times owners do not have access to electric. He can just furnish a deflector like I show in post #19. Simple solution.

Escape should probably be made aware that without the deflector the shell is getting very hot.

[Ron in BC]

Polyester resin can burn but it's pretty heat resistant. I've poured molten lead into a f.g. cavity without any apparent damage on the exterior.

As has been mentioned before I think the "lip" was because of the overhanging ridge on Gen 1s.

Ron

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

As has been mentioned before I think the "lip" was because of the overhanging ridge on Gen 1s.

Makes sense I guess but it'd still be nice to deflect the heat outward a bit rather than upward, even with the straight side.

[Dave Walter]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

I wonder why they stopped installing the deflector? All the classics I've seen (mine included) seem to have it.

Both of my 2013 Escapes have it. I guess the new ownership at Escape decided to streamline their operation and remove it.

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by Dave Walter

Both of my 2013 Escapes have it. I guess the new ownership at Escape decided to streamline their operation and remove it.

My 2017 21C (built when Reace & Tammy still owned Escape) does not have the deflector. Again, I believe the deflector was only used with the first generation versions of the trailers that had a ridge that stuck out just above the water heater exhaust. Check out the photo in post #19 in this thread.

I haven't noticed overheating of the fiberglass above the water heater without the deflector, but I usually only fire up the water heater for one shot when I'm going to use it - only leave it on if I'm on electric.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Paradox21

Hi all. New to the forum. I picked up my 2021 17B in August. The first time I started the 2-way Suburban water heater using propane it ignited on the second try, ran a full cycle, and shut off. Water was nice and hot. However, when I felt the fiberglass on the outside of the trailer about 4 cm above the hot water heater vent, the fiberglass was so hot I couldn't keep my hand there for a second. (Heater was off and no more steam was present.) It was burning hot (and my hands are not sensitive to heat by any means)! I measured the temperature of the fiberglass with an infrared temperature gun. It was 136oC (276oF)! I tested a neighbors infrared gun a few days later after firing up the heater again. The temperature read about the same. I called Escape to see whether this was normal. They had me send a few photos to determine if it was installed properly. They said the installation looked good but “Test this water heater frequently prior to any trips and monitor it but this shouldn’t be an issue.” I asked another owner of a 2021 17B whose trailer was delivered a few weeks after mine if they could check the fiberglass above the water heater the next time they fire it up. They kindly agreed and reported that it was warm, but they were able to keep their hand on the fiberglass without a problem. So, my question is, has anyone noticed intense heat in the fiberglass above the water heater vent after a cycle finishes? It would be very comforting to know that this is normal. It would be very important to know if it’s not. Thanks for reading.

I took a few pictures for you . Making a deflector is pretty easy and it is riveted on the water heater door . If my heater was heating up my fiberglass I would add a deflector to my trailer . The brand new Catamaran that melted and burned was brand new . Our trailers are not built or have the fiberglass the Catamaran did . The deflector would solve the heating up of your trailer body I would think . Pat

[Brian B-P]

Most RVs of all types, sizes, and brands have fiberglass exteriors, although most are not moulded. Other RVs don't need a deflector to protect the side wall above the water heater from the exhaust, so a vertical-walled Escape (the current body style) shouldn't, unless the resin used by Escape is substantially less resistant to high temperature than the resin in the common sheet products (such as Filon). The exhaust from the water heater is stupidly hot, due to the shockingly low efficiency of the heat exchange from combustion gas to water in these appliances, but it doesn't seem to be a problem in general.

[JeffreyG]

I'm thinking more about the vinyl decal immediately above the exhaust than about the fiberglass.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

Most RVs of all types, sizes, and brands have fiberglass exteriors, although most are not moulded. Other RVs don't need a deflector to protect the side wall above the water heater from the exhaust, so a vertical-walled Escape (the current body style) shouldn't, unless the resin used by Escape is substantially less resistant to high temperature than the resin in the common sheet products (such as Filon). The exhaust from the water heater is stupidly hot, due to the shockingly low efficiency of the heat exchange from combustion gas to water in these appliances, but it doesn't seem to be a problem in general.

Any concerns with the decal right above in the photo of the 19 in post #18?
I see Jeffrey beat me to it.

[Patandlinda]

I wouldn’t want my fiberglass getting hot and would deflect it off my trailer . Pat

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

I wouldn’t want my fiberglass getting hot and would deflect it off my trailer . Pat

What about camping in Arizona in summer?

[JeffreyG]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

What about camping in Arizona in summer?

I don't do that either.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

What about camping in Arizona in summer?

Hi Glenn no no not me Pat

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Any concerns with the decal right above in the photo of the 19 in post #18?
I see Jeffrey beat me to it.

RVs of all brands routinely have decals all over them. It isn't a concern for other brands, so it shouldn't be a concern for an Escape with a properly operating water heater.

My Boler has decals all the way around, just below the belly seam, just above the water heater. The decals are over 40 years old so they're pretty rough, but they're not melted over the water heater.

[jcs]

We have a 2019 17b, I had to extend the HWH exhaust deflector right out to the HWH exhaust screen by approximately 1/2" to prevent exactly what you are describing. The original exhaust deflector was too far in. I used some stainless steel tin and 2 screws, was a bit of work though, to get it right.