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Old 12-28-2018, 03:56 PM   #1
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Hot Water Heating

In a recent post (Weekends at Whistler: Final Update), I mentioned that the first 2 cups' of water from the kitchen tap are close to hot when we first turn it on in the morning, or at the end of the ski day. We believe this results from the lines, which run from the driver's side to the passenger's side of the trailer, under the floor, capturing and storing the heat generated by a small (375 watt) heater that we keep in the open area between the two rear bench seats.

This has led me to wonder whether we might run additional lines along the inside of the bench seats, coiling or flaking them, so that we have more than 2 cups of hot water in the winter. Can we tap into the cold water line after it exits on the passenger side, extend it by 15 feet or so, flaking it in the passenger-side bench seat? Years ago, before we had plumbing in our summer cabin, I coiled a 50' garden hose on the granite and had more than enough boiling hot water to do dishes and shower. I was thinking that we might do the same in the trailer.

Can you think of any down-side to doing this? Or any precautions we should take?

We have huge amounts of excess storage capacity under our rear bench seats, which will never be used; multiple feet of water line, storing the heat generated by the space heater, would be a good use of the space.
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Old 12-28-2018, 06:21 PM   #2
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We have huge amounts of excess storage capacity under our rear bench seats, which will never be used; multiple feet of water line, storing the heat generated by the space heater, would be a good use of the space.
Sounds like a fine plan to me!
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Old 12-29-2018, 12:12 AM   #3
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In a recent post (Weekends at Whistler: Final Update), I mentioned that the first 2 cups' of water from the kitchen tap are close to hot when we first turn it on in the morning, or at the end of the ski day. We believe this results from the lines, which run from the driver's side to the passenger's side of the trailer, under the floor, capturing and storing the heat generated by a small (375 watt) heater that we keep in the open area between the two rear bench seats.



This has led me to wonder whether we might run additional lines along the inside of the bench seats, coiling or flaking them, so that we have more than 2 cups of hot water in the winter. Can we tap into the cold water line after it exits on the passenger side, extend it by 15 feet or so, flaking it in the passenger-side bench seat? Years ago, before we had plumbing in our summer cabin, I coiled a 50' garden hose on the granite and had more than enough boiling hot water to do dishes and shower. I was thinking that we might do the same in the trailer.



Can you think of any down-side to doing this? Or any precautions we should take?



We have huge amounts of excess storage capacity under our rear bench seats, which will never be used; multiple feet of water line, storing the heat generated by the space heater, would be a good use of the space.

Do you have the two-way water heater?
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Old 12-29-2018, 07:08 AM   #4
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I understand the concept, but I don’t think this is a good bang for the buck. You have stated you have full hook-ups. Why don’t you just flip the hot water heater on (propane or electric if you have the dual mode model) when you get back from skiing? It heats the water pretty quickly. If you have the dual mode you can use both propane and electric simultaneously.

On edit: In reading your other thread I see you bypassed the hot water heater for simplicity. I assume you are concerned with freezing of the hot water tank when not in use.
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Old 12-29-2018, 09:11 AM   #5
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That's exactly it. Unless we keep the water in the tank hot at all times, it could freeze up. Unlikely, given that it is inside, but the insulation that keeps the water hot also prevents the heat inside the trailer from warming up the water while the heater is turned off.

In our Casita, we had dual propane-electric controls, but both were inside the trailer, and we could quickly switch off the electric heat in the tank when I was cooking, or otherwise loading the electrical circuit. We had asked Escape for this option, but it's not available. And it is just too big a nuisance going outside in the winter to muck about with the electrical switch on the water heater.

Why not then use the propane, you ask? Because we are gone during the week and need full tanks to back up the space heaters in the event of a power failure.
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Old 12-29-2018, 09:22 AM   #6
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Why not leave the electric on in the water heater, it should cycle on/off as needed. Throw the o/s switch once and leave it on.
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Old 12-29-2018, 11:34 AM   #7
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Or turn the circuit breaker off. I know, you shouldn't use a circuit breaker as a switch but a few uses isn't going to kill it.

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Old 12-29-2018, 11:47 AM   #8
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Why not leave the electric on in the water heater, it should cycle on/off as needed. Throw the o/s switch once and leave it on.


I’m with Jim. Why not just leave it on? You’re only burning electricity. Which presumably is not metered, even though leaving it on full time wouldn’t actually use much. Alternatively, adding an interior electrical switch would be just as easy as adding all the plumbing that you’re proposing.

Others and myself could walk you through adding an electric switch if you’re interested.Click image for larger version

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Old 12-29-2018, 01:00 PM   #9
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Yes, maybe just leave it on electric while you are there for the weekend and then throw the bypass valves and drain while you are away. Maybe a combination anode / drain would make it more convenient for you? Obviously you would have to trim your skirting or otherwise create an opening to access the water heater on the exterior.

https://www.amazon.com/NW-Leisure-TS...73279860&psc=1
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Old 12-29-2018, 01:52 PM   #10
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Elisabeth, I take it that you leave the space heaters on during the week while you’re away, no? Otherwise your whole plumbing system would be in danger of freezing, not just your water heater, which you bypassed to avoid it freezing, right? If all this is true, then I’m back to just leaving the water heater on (electric) all the time. It won’t freeze, won’t use nearly as much juice as your space heaters, and is probably a lot safer than leaving space heaters unattended.

Another aspect of this, do you have tank heating pads to keep your fresh tank from freezing?
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Old 12-29-2018, 02:54 PM   #11
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Another aspect of this, do you have tank heating pads to keep your fresh tank from freezing?
I don’t think that is a factor. His Whistler thread says he has a heated hose so he is connected to city water. No water should be in the fresh tank.
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Old 12-29-2018, 03:02 PM   #12
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I would recommend a camera inside that is connect to your phone to determine if power ever goes off just to check the inside in case.
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Old 12-29-2018, 03:08 PM   #13
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Also I would have the propane furnace on a digital thermostat if it isn’t already and set it to a temperature below what the electric heaters would maintain, but above freezing potential. If the power trips or is lost from the utility you still have the propane furnace acting as backup. For a while if on batteries only and possibly infinitely if you have a solar panel that isn’t covered with snow.
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Old 12-29-2018, 03:24 PM   #14
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maybe too cold for propane, I think below -0- there are issues.....
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Old 12-29-2018, 04:30 PM   #15
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maybe too cold for propane, I think below -0- there are issues.....
I’m no cold weather propane expert but I think it has to be much colder than that to keep the propane all liquid. Like closer to -40F.
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Old 12-29-2018, 04:42 PM   #16
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That's exactly it. Unless we keep the water in the tank hot at all times, it could freeze up. Unlikely, given that it is inside, but the insulation that keeps the water hot also prevents the heat inside the trailer from warming up the water while the heater is turned off.

In our Casita, we had dual propane-electric controls, but both were inside the trailer, and we could quickly switch off the electric heat in the tank when I was cooking, or otherwise loading the electrical circuit. We had asked Escape for this option, but it's not available. And it is just too big a nuisance going outside in the winter to muck about with the electrical switch on the water heater.

Why not then use the propane, you ask? Because we are gone during the week and need full tanks to back up the space heaters in the event of a power failure.
Take a look at this thread - a number of us have added a switch to control the electric hot water heater from the monitor panel. Really convenient to control the hot water heater as both propane and electric are controlled from the panel after the mod.
http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f8...day-11959.html
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Old 12-29-2018, 08:40 PM   #17
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Also I would have the propane furnace on a digital thermostat if it isn’t already and set it to a temperature below what the electric heaters would maintain, but above freezing potential. If the power trips or is lost from the utility you still have the propane furnace acting as backup. For a while if on batteries only and possibly infinitely if you have a solar panel that isn’t covered with snow.
egraham just realized based on your previous post that you are already doing this.

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Why not then use the propane, you ask? Because we are gone during the week and need full tanks to back up the space heaters in the event of a power failure.
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Old 12-30-2018, 10:39 PM   #18
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We are up at Whistler for two weeks and I cannot respond easily. Will do when we get back. Thank you all and happy new year!
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