Leak and wet wood flooring

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by chuckwhanson

Is the bad rivet / leaking issue on only older versions of the Escape trailers? The Escape website says the two halves are "fiberglassed together at the center prior to demolding to create a seamless body construction. This eliminates any chance of water penetration ...".

If the above is correct, why would they need rivets to connect the two halves or, again, is the issue of water penetration (through bad rivets) only an issue on older models of the Escape trailers?

The trailer shell halves are glassed together but they add the decorative belly band which is held on with rivets. This applies to all years of Escape trailers. Should only present an issue if there are bad (hollow) or missing rivets and water has a way to get to the opening and work its way in. I don't think this is or has ever been a big issue but since our trailer is a 2010 I do plan to remove the vinyl band, inspect and put a dab of Proflex on anything that looks like a potential entry point.

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by chuckwhanson

Is the bad rivet / leaking issue on only older versions of the Escape trailers? The Escape website says the two halves are "fiberglassed together at the center prior to demolding to create a seamless body construction. This eliminates any chance of water penetration ...".

If the above is correct, why would they need rivets to connect the two halves or, again, is the issue of water penetration (through bad rivets) only an issue on older models of the Escape trailers?

I believe the rivets hold the belly band in place and thus could leak....

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

I believe the rivets hold the belly band in place and thus could leak....

Keeping in mind that the belly band is extremely light weight and unlikely to cause any deterioration of the rivets.

[chuckwhanson]

It seems very odd to me that they would make the effort to fiberglass the two halves together to prevent water intrusion (IE: one shell with no seam), but then drive rivets through that area just to hold the belly band. Why bother with one shell if you are just going to drive rivets through it anyway? Again, seems very odd to me.

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by chuckwhanson

It seems very odd to me that they would make the effort to fiberglass the two halves together to prevent water intrusion (IE: one shell with no seam), but then drive rivets through that area just to hold the belly band. Why bother with one shell if you are just going to drive rivets through it anyway? Again, seems very odd to me.

There are dozens, if not a hundred other rivets holding on vents, shower door, electrical, awning. These don't leak because they are not attempting to hold up cupboards etc.

[HABBERDABBER]

Originally Posted by NEWYORKHILLBILLY

Here is a picture of what ETI uses on belly band and a few other places . It may be some kind of blind rivet . I haven't been able to find these anywhere except the ones ETI sent me for a repair. They have a few relieve cuts in the first 1/4 inch. when compressed they form two bulges and also the diameter will expand to the hole. When you have to drill one out they will not spin like a pop rivet. I sure these have a correct name,But i been unable to find it.

Search and view the online McMaster-Carr industrial supply catalog. They've always had nearly anything I've ever needed or could conceive of. When I used to get their printed catalog at work, it was maybe near 4" thick. The Gizmo do-dad Bible.
Seek, and ye shall find.

[sprinkledavid@gmail.com]

My 19 Escape had a serious water leak in the front right seat/ storage area shortly after I had it. I removed the front area belly band and found a failed pop rivet installation. I caulked all the pop rivit installations on the belly band. 8 years later no leaks. My new 21 Escape was soon caulked at every pop rivet installation point for peace of mind.

[angler24]

I will pull the full belly band and inspect everything. I found a potential leak source. I have rear upper tail lights and not only is the caulking degraded but one almost seams (ha) a bit warped and is slightly pulled away from the trailer body. I also have 2-3 bulbs in same tail light assembly that are out. I will caulk it well with Polyflex and will inspect and caulk everything else.

Are these tail light assemblies a complete unit that I can replace? I have unscrewed the two screws and attempted to gently pry it loose but it won't come off. I don't want to pry it till it breaks and then be in another pickle. Just wondering what advice you might have for replacing it.

On on a brighter note, I spent a week in No Central WA where the dry wind never stops for long and the wood flooring seems pretty dry. Maybe I should just move to Soap Lake and I would not have this issue!

Thanks for any advice on replacing rear tail lights. I will post a pic when I remove the cover for the caulking.
~ Jane

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by angler24

I will pull the full belly band and inspect everything. I found a potential leak source. I have rear upper tail lights and not only is the caulking degraded but one almost seams (ha) a bit warped and is slightly pulled away from the trailer body. I also have 2-3 bulbs in same tail light assembly that are out. I will caulk it well with Polyflex and will inspect and caulk everything else.

Are these tail light assemblies a complete unit that I can replace? I have unscrewed the two screws and attempted to gently pry it loose but it won't come off. I don't want to pry it till it breaks and then be in another pickle. Just wondering what advice you might have for replacing it.

On on a brighter note, I spent a week in No Central WA where the dry wind never stops for long and the wood flooring seems pretty dry. Maybe I should just move to Soap Lake and I would not have this issue!

Thanks for any advice on replacing rear tail lights. I will post a pic when I remove the cover for the caulking.
~ Jane

I'm sure if you contact Escape they can provide you with a replacement or a source.....

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by angler24

Are these tail light assemblies a complete unit that I can replace? I have unscrewed the two screws and attempted to gently pry it loose but it won't come off. I don't want to pry it till it breaks and then be in another pickle. Just wondering what advice you might have for replacing it.

Jane: I believe that Escape uses the Bargman 47-54-001. It's probably held on with some caulk. Try to trim around the perimeter with a razor blade and gently pry it up. This should be the exact replacement:
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Lig...SABEgLTPPD_BwE

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Jane: I believe that Escape uses the Bargman 47-54-001. It's probably held on with some caulk. Try to trim around the perimeter with a razor blade and gently pry it up. This should be the exact replacement:
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Lig...SABEgLTPPD_BwE

Same price on Amazon, love Prime!
https://www.amazon.com/Bargman-47-54...8078015&sr=8-1

[Nindy]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

Same price on Amazon, love Prime!
https://www.amazon.com/Bargman-47-54...8078015&sr=8-1

Thank you for that. I need to replace one of mine that has a few lights burnt out. Too bad I just placed an Amazon order yesterday!
Linda

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by Nindy

Thank you for that. I need to replace one of mine that has a few lights burnt out. Too bad I just placed an Amazon order yesterday!
Linda

I guess Prime with free shipping encourages ordering several things over several days...rather than grouping. Every time a UPS truck goes down the street, they seem to stop here??

[angler24]

Thank you all for the helpful replies and the replacement tail light model.

[tractors1]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

I guess Prime with free shipping encourages ordering several things over several days...rather than grouping. Every time a UPS truck goes down the street, they seem to stop here??

While my Escape was being built our 3 dogs got to know the UPS driver so well they stopped barking at him and started wagging..........of course he carried dog treats.

[angler24]

With regard to the tail light replacement - how complicated is the electrical wiring? Is it something that can be "easily" wired in?
I have replaced the water pump before so am somewhat familiar with wire connections. Just wondering before I get in there. I am a nerd but not an electrical nerd. Thanks in advance.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by angler24

With regard to the tail light replacement - how complicated is the electrical wiring? Is it something that can be "easily" wired in?
I have replaced the water pump before so am somewhat familiar with wire connections. Just wondering before I get in there. I am a nerd but not an electrical nerd. Thanks in advance.

Should be simple. 3 wires. Some butt connectors and a crimp tool should be all you need.

[angler24]

Thank you!!

[Doug2000]

I had a 2007 17B. One leak was from the 9” x 9” bathroom vent. I put in a new vent. The second was the front side window rubber seal shrunk enough to start leaking. I removed the seal and used black RTV sealant to reinstall the glass. Pretty good for a 12 year old trailer. I always parked it nose down so all water would run to the front corner if something happened.

I thought the belly band was fully Fibreglassed on the inside when the shells were joined?

Your photo showing plywood? The floor in my 2007 was fully inclosed in Fibreglass. Such a high quality trailer!

[fudge_brownie]

It seems several years ago there was an issue with the rear upper tail light warping. I recall climbing a ladder and laying a large bead of Proflex across the top of the fixture. Not sure what year models were affected, I did it proactively.