Leak and wet wood flooring

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Should be simple. 3 wires. Some butt connectors and a crimp tool should be all you need.

I think techfan was the first to have leaking issues on his 15B with the long upper tail lights. He said the wires were very short! So, be prepared to add some as needed. You'll find his responses to the issue in this thread: Leaks at running lights https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...html#post82998

[skiman]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

I think techfan was the first to have leaking issues on his 15B with the long upper tail lights. He said the wires were very short! So, be prepared to add some as needed. You'll find his responses to the issue in this thread: Leaks at running lights https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...html#post82998

My 2014 had it. Leaked into passenger side cupboard, Removed light, caulk, then recaulked leaving small gap in bottom center, Light still warped but caulk filled gap. Did all 3 no problem since. Plastic putty knife and solvent to get old caul off. Bit of a job. Cannot remember which solvent.

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by skiman

My 2014 had it. Leaked into passenger side cupboard, Removed light, caulk, then recaulked leaving small gap in bottom center, Light still warped but caulk filled gap. Did all 3 no problem since.

My 2014 too. I just caulk the tops of all the lights. So far, so good... knock wood. BUT, the drivers side upper has a couple of LEDs that have gone out. I know replacement is in my future.

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by skiman

My 2014 had it. Leaked into passenger side cupboard, Removed light, caulk, then recaulked leaving small gap in bottom center, Light still warped but caulk filled gap. Did all 3 no problem since. Plastic putty knife and solvent to get old caul off. Bit of a job. Cannot remember which solvent.

I don't know which you used, but acetone works. It will remove any wax, is very flammable, and while I haven't experienced the problem, I've been told it will soften polyester (the resin used with the fiberglass of the trailer) if left on too long, so take care...

[HABBERDABBER]

The good thing about acetone is it is very volatile.......it quickly evaporates away. I don't believe it would do damage to gel coat if just wiped around.

[angler24]

Attaching a picture of the gap between the upper tail light and the fiberglass. Qtip for scale reference. This is the left light which I am replacing. The right one is not quite as bad and I have caulked it with ProFlex. The taillights have 2 screws holes and the hole that the 3 wires come out of. With both lights having the gap (pictured) do you think that is enough space to let an amount of water leak in? Seems like small holes to me but I guess it is possible. Anyway I am well on my way to becoming a decent caulker and will be diligent about this in the future. Thanks Donna for adding the light replacement link - very helpful. And yes the wires to connect to are extremely short.

The taillight is held on by 2 screws and some glue between the light assembly and the fiberglass. Can I use caulk to reglue the replacement assembly on? Or do you think I should get some kind of glue? Thanks.

Jane

[Mike G]

What are you using for caulk? No silicone, I hope.

[angler24]

Not silicone, thanks to this trusty forum. I am using ProFlex.

[Eggscape]

Make sure to keep the Acetone away from the tail lights as it will start to melt them, take the finish off and your rag may even get stuck to the lens.

[HABBERDABBER]

Originally Posted by Eggscape

Make sure to keep the Acetone away from the tail lights as it will start to melt them, take the finish off and your rag may even get stuck to the lens.

Acetone on the lens is not good at all. They're likely a styrene material, and can soften. Either be careful, use physical scraping of old caulk or a milder solvent. Or so I'd do.


It seems like you're dealing with an application of a flat surface device attached to a curved surface. Caulk is a reasonable fix in that situation. Alternatives come to mind, but none of them are quick & easy.

[gbaglo]

Yup. I tried cleaning model glue off the windshield of a model car when I was about ten-years-old. Don't do that.

[sprinkledavid@gmail.com]

Mineral spirits softens proflex

[MVA]

Thanks all for the heads up regarding leaking trailer lights. I will be adding check & caulk lights to the to do list (for when the weather warms up a bit) along with checking & caulking belly band rivets.

I will use blue painters tape to make sure that I get clean crisp even caulk lines.

People have mentioned leaks around windows. Where does the leak generally occur; where should I be looking to find evidence of a leak?

- Kathy

[skiman]

Originally Posted by MVA

Thanks all for the heads up regarding leaking trailer lights. I will be adding check & caulk lights to the to do list (for when the weather warms up a bit) along with checking & caulking belly band rivets.

I will use blue painters tape to make sure that I get clean crisp even caulk lines.

People have mentioned leaks around windows. Where does the leak generally occur; where should I be looking to find evidence of a leak?

- Kathy

Painters tape is great for those of us who are all thumbs challenged!

[TTMartin]

Originally Posted by chuckwhanson

It seems very odd to me that they would make the effort to fiberglass the two halves together to prevent water intrusion (IE: one shell with no seam), but then drive rivets through that area just to hold the belly band. Why bother with one shell if you are just going to drive rivets through it anyway? Again, seems very odd to me.

Seemed odd to me too. That's why I asked Escape not to install the bellyband.

They are planning on using a VHB attached bellyband on the Escape 23.

I am sealing the seam between the two halves with Six 10 epoxy, and then adding a automotive VHB attached trim piece in place of the traditional aluminum / plastic insert bellyband.

[angler24]

Couple questions ~
If using painters tape with Proflex and fiberglass do you pull it off when the caulk is wet or dry?


The screw holes are a bit stripped (the new light appliance does not come w new screws so I used the old ones). They are just a tad proud. Solid but not super solid against the plastic of the light. Any tricks for sealing the tiny gap where the screw does not meet super firmly to the plastic? Should I try to get a little gasket for the screw or should I use caulk around it. And if you recommend caulk do you have any tricks for not making a huge glob on the screw?

Thanks!!

[MVA]

I would pull the tape off right after you finish smoothing the bead while the caulk is still wet. If you wait to remove the tape until after the caulk has skinned over or dried the caulk joint will probably be damaged.

I have included the home depot link because it shows how to use tape to approximate a curve (steps 2 and 3). On a side note, I would also have taped the side of the sink bowl prior to caulking to prevent smearing caulk on the sink. https://www.homedepot.com/c/ah/how-t...5fab9012f8277f


Thoughts on leaks at the belly band:

After taking a closer look at the belly band on our trailer, I suspect water running behind the belly band and hitting the rivet shaft and leaking into the trailer is a larger source of water leaks than water making its way behind the vinyl trim covering the rivets and leaking through the rivet heads. Therefore caulking the rivet heads won't do much to stop leaks since water can still get behind the belly band and to the rivet shafts. The solution seems to be a bead of caulk where the top of the belly band meets the side of the trailer. Thoughts?

- Kathy

[TTMartin]

Originally Posted by MVA

After taking a closer look at the belly band on our trailer, I suspect water running behind the belly band and hitting the rivet shaft and leaking into the trailer is a larger source of water leaks than water making its way behind the vinyl trim covering the rivets and leaking through the rivet heads. Therefore caulking the rivet heads won't do much to stop leaks since water can still get behind the belly band and to the rivet shafts.

This is correct.

Additionally, what you can't see behind the aluminum is where the two halves come together, they form a channel which will catch the water. This is likely where the rivets are drilled through.

That channel is what I am filling with Six 10 epoxy on my no drill belly band trailer.

[angler24]

Morning,

I have caulked a test strip on the top of belly band. Is this the idea?
In attached picture, to left of blue tape I have a short strip of white caulk. Just checking to confirm I got this correct.



Also, I have seen youtubes where the caulker uses gloves and then puts mineral spirit on finger to smooth caulk. Is this what any of you do to smooth the caulk in to a neet line? Thanks!

[gbaglo]

I've not caulked the top or bottom. I just direct a stream of water from a hose at the top to drive debris out the bottom of the belly band.

Not sure what about the belly band is a problem. Caulk will become discoloured and dirty over time and look worse than what you have, and you will have to recaulk.