Leaks at running lights

[catch_demfish]

Reace solves another problem while he was occupied with the furnace situation.
We have a July 2014 21 footer with a leak in rear passenger corner.
Camping in FL with weekly rain storms we found a wet area in the rear corner of the passenger bench. The culprit was the separation of the top running lights from the body of the trailer. We followed Reaces suggestions, PROBLEM SOLVED. Thanks Reace. Janet and Bob

[cpaharley2008]

What was his suggestion, inquiring minds want to know??

[catch_demfish]

Reace made three suggestions, 1. only non silicone products. 2. dicor lap sealant. 3 forgot the name, the local RV repair service center had problems with it and stopped carrying it.

[PGDriver]

Originally Posted by catch_demfish

Reace made three suggestions, 1. only non silicone products. 2. dicor lap sealant. 3 forgot the name, the local RV repair service center had problems with it and stopped carrying it.

Sikaflex?

[techfan]

Originally Posted by catch_demfish

Reace solves another problem while he was occupied with the furnace situation.
We have a July 2014 21 footer with a leak in rear passenger corner.
Camping in FL with weekly rain storms we found a wet area in the rear corner of the passenger bench. The culprit was the separation of the top running lights from the body of the trailer. We followed Reaces suggestions, PROBLEM SOLVED. Thanks Reace. Janet and Bob

Were these the small running lights or the long ones, identical to the lights on the bottom?

[catch_demfish]

Originally Posted by PGDriver

Sikaflex?

YES it was Sikaflex

[catch_demfish]

It was the long running lights. All 3 lights had the thickness of a pocket knife gap between the camper and the light fixture. It is my opinion, if the light fixture had screws in mid lens both top and bottom the problem could have been avoided. I like the long running lights.

[techfan]

L

Originally Posted by catch_demfish

It was the long running lights. All 3 lights had the thickness of a pocket knife gap between the camper and the light fixture. It is my opinion, if the light fixture had screws in mid lens both top and bottom the problem could have been avoided. I like the long running lights.

Our long running lights warped leaving close to a quarter inch gap in the middle. As they warped they pulled the caulk away exposing the wiring hole. When replacing I also applied VHB tape to the back. The screw holes were also stripped out so I install Rivnuts to give me something to attach. I think the long lights are susceptible to heat warping because of their exposure. No such warping has occurred on the lower lights. Something for all those who have the high lights to examine. I will post some pictures of the gaps and the warped lights.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by catch_demfish

YES it was Sikaflex

Know not to use silicone . What about proflex RV ? Pat

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

What was his suggestion, inquiring minds want to know??

Charlie in the past you mentioned you used the rubber gutters . Do you install to the metal frame or did you put on body ? Pat

[techfan]

Based on the attached photos, simply adding caulk would have required a lot of caulk to fill the void created by the warping. Also, because the gap had been there so long, the space had filled with fir needles, leaves and general dirt that made just applying more caulk problematic because it was unlikely to hold. One picture is of the gap on the trailer and the other is removed on a level showing how large the gap was. The plastic had deformed in such a way that you could not press it down to get it any where near flat again. I'm just suggesting that even adding additional caulk may not solve the problem long term if the lights continue to warp as ours did.

[padlin]

Might it be a good place for Butyl Tape?, or is that old school?

[PGDriver]

Originally Posted by padlin

Might it be a good place for Butyl Tape?, or is that old school?

Hi Bob

Butyl tape is a great product but due to the amount of distortion here it would not be suitable for this application. Sikaflex by Sika Products or Mulcoflex 9000 by Mulco Products was what I used for these type of problems when I worked as a glazier. I will be watching this problem closely to see how it is fixed, also wondering if all of the lights installed on other trailers are starting to warp.

Cheers
Doug

[cpaharley2008]

Charlie in the past you mentioned you used the rubber gutters . Do you install to the metal frame or did you put on body ? Pat


I attached them to the fiberglass over the windows to capture that possible joint, have to wait until warm weather though to put a little down dip to follow the frame contour.

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by techfan

Based on the attached photos, simply adding caulk would have required a lot of caulk to fill the void created by the warping. Also, because the gap had been there so long, the space had filled with fir needles, leaves and general dirt that made just applying more caulk problematic because it was unlikely to hold. One picture is of the gap on the trailer and the other is removed on a level showing how large the gap was. The plastic had deformed in such a way that you could not press it down to get it any where near flat again. I'm just suggesting that even adding additional caulk may not solve the problem long term if the lights continue to warp as ours did.

It appears that you never had any original factory sealant installed. Each light (both large,small marker and the exterior lights) have a small strip or sealant along the top, yours doesn't appear to have had any?

[techfan]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

It appears that you never had any original factory sealant installed. Each light (both large,small marker and the exterior lights) have a small strip or sealant along the top, yours doesn't appear to have had any?

You can see the sealant in the picture of the light on the trailer. It is the off colored line above the edge of the light. Yes, there was sealant, BUT it could not stand up to the force of the light warping and the light just pulled away on both the top and the bottom. If you click and zoom in you will see it on both the trailer body and the top of the light.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Charlie in the past you mentioned you used the rubber gutters . Do you install to the metal frame or did you put on body ? Pat


I attached them to the fiberglass over the windows to capture that possible joint, have to wait until warm weather though to put a little down dip to follow the frame contour.

Thanks Charlie . California here 65-80's right now . Mostly wanted to do the front window -the cover collects dirt and water and of course those nasty dirt streaks all the time . Pat

[dfandrews]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

Thanks Charlie . California here 65-80's right now . .... Pat

Careful, Pat. We have to be very gentle, mentioning our weather to those who have real weather!

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by dfandrews

Careful, Pat. We have to be very gentle, mentioning our weather to those who have real weather!

OK Don Shhhhhh! Pat

[padlin]

Originally Posted by PGDriver

Hi Bob

Butyl tape is a great product but due to the amount of distortion here it would not be suitable for this application. Sikaflex by Sika Products or Mulcoflex 9000 by Mulco Products was what I used for these type of problems when I worked as a glazier. I will be watching this problem closely to see how it is fixed, also wondering if all of the lights installed on other trailers are starting to warp.

Cheers
Doug

Thanks Doug, good info.