Leveling Issue

[NW Cat Owner]

When I read the original post, I couldn't figure out why someone was trying to level while still hitched up. Then in reading the rest of the posts I realized why. I never level while I'm hitched up as I don't drive up on anything to level it. I take out the trailer on my own and I didn't want to mess with going back and forth and changing the height of the blocks or whatever. I remember watching someone go back and forth on their blocks for quite a while until they were level and they had help - decided that wasn't for me (but many others are fine with it).


Most spots I go to are level so I don't have to dink with side-to-side, so I just move the hitch up or down until I'm level. When I do have to level, I use BAL-type levelers, but from Purple Line, called KoJack, as the BALs weren't wide enough for the tires, even though they said they would be. The ones from Purple Line fit great. I know they were on Amazon a few years ago, but haven't looked for a long time. Yeah, you get a bit of a workout cranking those things up, but hey, I need to lose a few pounds. Or you could use a power tool if you want.


Kojack| Support |Purple Line


Maybe something like these will work better for you.


I have a pair of X-Caulks, but hardly ever use them since I'm in the trailer by myself and I don't feel the motion of the trailer. If someone else is with me, then I might put them on if the stabilizers aren't enough. Or if it's very windy - they make a big difference (both of them).

[Rrgramps]

My Casita hitch was easier to release than the “stirrup” bail on the Escape. There seems to be a sweet spot; if that helps. I forget sometimes, and still lightly rock the vehicle back and forth a bit to dislodge it; chocked for safety of course.

The sweet spot for me, seems to be with the vehicle moved forward, with the ball sitting just a skosh towards the front of center, lightly touching the trailer hitch. There’s less than a half inch of freedom inside the tongue latch. Miss it, and you either can’t get the bail up, or the ball itself gets jammed. It is victim of its own unseen latch mechanism in the rear. You can see stem of the ball position, though, and its position can possibly help tell you which way to roll.

Hitching back up to go home, can also present a bind with the stirrup style hitch as you let it down. Last year, I learned from here, to position the ball forward about 1/4 inch from the center of the trailer tongue; instead of dead center or directly over it. The trailer will then ride the ball down.

[tdf-texas]

Maybe it was just a fluke but I saw a camper with X-chocks hook up and start to pull away without first removing the X-chocks. The X-chocks flew out from between the two tires going sideways - glad nothing was in the way because they were really moving.

After seeing that, I would never recommend X-chocks as a chock for the tires. Stabilization is OK but not for holding the trailer in place. You still need a good set of tire chocks when using X-chocks.

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

Maybe it was just a fluke but I saw a camper with X-chocks hook up and start to pull away without first removing the X-chocks. The X-chocks flew out from between the two tires going sideways - glad nothing was in the way because they were really moving.



After seeing that, I would never recommend X-chocks as a chock for the tires. Stabilization is OK but not for holding the trailer in place. You still need a good set of tire chocks when using X-chocks.

Conventional chocks might have prevented the X-Chocks from flying out in that situation, by creating a barrier to movement that the driver would notice.

But that doesn't really speak to the suitability of X-Chocks. On a level site, they work very well as the only chock. They don't cure driver stupidity however, nor do they help the driver to remember to do a final walk-around.

[kavm]

Originally Posted by NW Cat Owner

When I read the original post, I couldn't figure out why someone was trying to level while still hitched up. Then in reading the rest of the posts I realized why. I never level while I'm hitched up as I don't drive up on anything to level it. I take out the trailer on my own and I didn't want to mess with going back and forth and changing the height of the blocks or whatever. I remember watching someone go back and forth on their blocks for quite a while until they were level and they had help - decided that wasn't for me (but many others are fine with it).


Most spots I go to are level so I don't have to dink with side-to-side, so I just move the hitch up or down until I'm level. When I do have to level, I use BAL-type levelers, but from Purple Line, called KoJack, as the BALs weren't wide enough for the tires, even though they said they would be. The ones from Purple Line fit great. I know they were on Amazon a few years ago, but haven't looked for a long time. Yeah, you get a bit of a workout cranking those things up, but hey, I need to lose a few pounds. Or you could use a power tool if you want.


Kojack| Support |Purple Line


Maybe something like these will work better for you.


I have a pair of X-Caulks, but hardly ever use them since I'm in the trailer by myself and I don't feel the motion of the trailer. If someone else is with me, then I might put them on if the stabilizers aren't enough. Or if it's very windy - they make a big difference (both of them).

I looked at the Kojack link/video. They do seem a lot simpler - in that there is no moving the camper back and forth on to the blocks to level.

So, I am interested in getting them for our 5.0. Does anyone else have any experience and feedback on it?

[padlin]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

Maybe it was just a fluke but I saw a camper with X-chocks hook up and start to pull away without first removing the X-chocks. The X-chocks flew out from between the two tires going sideways - glad nothing was in the way because they were really moving.

After seeing that, I would never recommend X-chocks as a chock for the tires. Stabilization is OK but not for holding the trailer in place. You still need a good set of tire chocks when using X-chocks.

I did that once. Maybe cause I only use the X chocks occasionally. I always use regular rubber chocks.

[h2owmn]

I have used the BAL on a previous AFrame trailer. It says fits 13,14,and most 15 in wheels. I don't use it anymore. It is heavy (1=14 lbs) and bulky and needs a place to be stored. The crank screw is also greasy. All in all, too many negatives for me.

The other brand's website doesn't list a weight. Both brands seem to be about $95 for one.

I use the Andersen leveler. Easy to use, easy to adjust (i usually only have to check once.) I watch the belly band in my rear view mirror and usually can tell when it's level. If you have double axle about $125 for the two. Folks with dual axle say you have to saw off a piece of one of the wedges.

[kavm]

Thank you, h2owmn! This helps!

Having never pulled a trailer or used the levelers, I am trying to educate myself and find things that might help. The idea of not moving the trailer back and forth seemed attractive...

[Perry Butler]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

Maybe it was just a fluke but I saw a camper with X-chocks hook up and start to pull away without first removing the X-chocks. The X-chocks flew out from between the two tires going sideways - glad nothing was in the way because they were really moving.

After seeing that, I would never recommend X-chocks as a chock for the tires. Stabilization is OK but not for holding the trailer in place. You still need a good set of tire chocks when using X-chocks.

My guess that scenario is why Dexter asked us about using X-Chocks before replacing both our axles. We use a good set of chocks when unhooking, and only then use the X-Chocks for stability. TETO!

Enjoy,

Perry

[Rossue]

Dexter also told me it might be better to not use my Trailer-Aid to jack up one tire to remove the other when doing wheel bearing maintenance. Didn't say don't do it so I have to wonder about this supposed X-chock "prohibition " too. Haven't had a problem doing either of the above for six years now.

[Ronn]

Originally Posted by h2owmn

I use the Andersen leveler. Easy to use, easy to adjust (i usually only have to check once.) I watch the belly band in my rear view mirror and usually can tell when it's level. If you have double axle about $125 for the two. Folks with dual axle say you have to saw off a piece of one of the wedges.

Another vote for the Andersen Levelers from me.

[Perry Butler]

Originally Posted by Rossue

Dexter also told me it might be better to not use my Trailer-Aid to jack up one tire to remove the other when doing wheel bearing maintenance. Didn't say don't do it so I have to wonder about this supposed X-chock "prohibition " too. Haven't had a problem doing either of the above for six years now.

I did not get the impression that Dexter had a "prohibition" on X-Chocks. I felt their question was more of a survey. I can easily see how a problem could accidentally happen though.

Enjoy,

Perry

[JeffreyG]

Originally Posted by h2owmn

I have used the BAL on a previous AFrame trailer. It says fits 13,14,and most 15 in wheels. I don't use it anymore. It is heavy (1=14 lbs) and bulky and needs a place to be stored. The crank screw is also greasy. All in all, too many negatives for me.

The other brand's website doesn't list a weight. Both brands seem to be about $95 for one.

I use the Andersen leveler. Easy to use, easy to adjust (i usually only have to check once.) I watch the belly band in my rear view mirror and usually can tell when it's level. If you have double axle about $125 for the two. Folks with dual axle say you have to saw off a piece of one of the wedges.

I had a single axle pop-up about 15 years ago. Got a BAL because it looked convenient. In reality it is not convenient and it's a lot easier to just drive up on something compared to all the negatives (storage, weight, grease, and cranking). Double all that for a dual axle, although I never even considered using two BALs on a dual.

When I had a dual axle trailer I got a set of Lynx blocks. They're like big orange Legos that you build into a support. These are also a pain becuase you can't build two little towers for a higher support, so you need one long one to get both axles on.

Ultimately, the crescent type levelers are the easiest to use, especially for dual axle trailers. Trust me, I've tried them all (including the budget approach with wood).

[JeffreyG]

Originally Posted by Perryb67

I did not get the impression that Dexter had a "prohibition" on X-Chocks. I felt their question was more of a survey. I can easily see how a problem could accidentally happen though.

Enjoy,

Perry

I wonder if a lot of Dexter spindle bending is from people who use X-chocks and then drive away without removing them.

It's hard to imagine how placing an X-chock and then just lifting and lowering the tongue with the jack could place much load on the chock. I'm not sure this movement would even make the tires try to rotate relative to each other.

I do like a very hard chocked trailer because we have more than one person onboard. I don't like the trailer wiggling when somebody rolls over at night. X-chocks (good ones) are good for this. Hensley makes a very nice set.

I've also in the past just driven up on one standard chock to place some tension and then had a helper place the second chock on the other side of the wheel. When you shift to neutral, the trailer settles between the chocks having both firmly trapped. It's very stable, but kind of a pain as it takes two people and some coordination to un-chock after you hitch up. X-chocks are simpler.

[tdf-texas]

I still can't understand the fascination with X-chocks due to the inherent problems that comes with their use. A lot of effort to install, should not be used as a tire chock, can be detrimental to the axle spindles, and dangerous if not removed before moving the trailer.

I have the Fastway ONESTEP chocks which puts tension on the bottom of both tires stabilizing and chocking the trailer tires at the same time. No issue with potential spindle damage, safe and easy to use, stabilizes the trailer, and works well for chocking the tires. Literally, it takes me less than 5 seconds to lock the trailer tires with it and less than that to remove them.

Please! Help to understand why anyone would buy a X-chock today when there are much better products on the market.

[Rossue]

I use X-chocks as we disperse camp a lot. With uneven terrain and sometimes slippery (sandy, etc.) ground sometimes even our heavy rubber chocks (nevermind cheap plastic ones) often will fail to hold. In that event the tongue can(and has) slid sideways a foot or more. If on blocks at that point there can be a problem then of getting the tongue high enough to get back on the hitch ball.

Not sure where you get the "inherent problems" from, or difficulty to use. It takes me less than a minute to install each one and once cinched properly is very rare to then have any sideways movement upon unhitching.

[h2owmn]

I do still carry a set of the lynx "legos" as well as the anderson. They are good for the stabilizers if you are on sand, and i have even put them under the andersen (one level) if I need a little extra boost or under the tongue if my 4x6 isn't high enough. If I'm on the street outside my son's the curbside is significantly lower than the driver's side and I need quite the construction to be level.

[Greg A]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

I have the Fastway ONESTEP chocks which puts tension on the bottom of both tires stabilizing and chocking the trailer tires at the same time. No issue with potential spindle damage, safe and easy to use, stabilizes the trailer, and works well for chocking the tires. Literally, it takes me less than 5 seconds to lock the trailer tires with it and less than that to remove them.

I took a look at these, Tom, and really like them. Over the years the x-chock type system just never appealed to me and I've never had any significant movement in the trailer once chocked properly and stabs down.
I like to keep setup and takedown as simplistic as possible and with the way I currently setup my trailer these would fit in very well.
Thanks for posting this product.

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by Greg A

I took a look at these, Tom, and really like them. Over the years the x-chock type system just never appealed to me and I've never had any significant movement in the trailer once chocked properly and stabs down.
I like to keep setup and takedown as simplistic as possible and with the way I currently setup my trailer these would fit in very well.
Thanks for posting this product.

I've been using a pair for the last year, and like them. I do't se one on the lifted side, and the number of sites where I haven't needed to lift one side or the other are few, you might be comfortable with just one. Use standard chocks for the other side when level, and Anderson or equivalent for the opposite side when you need a lift.

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

I still can't understand the fascination with X-chocks due to the inherent problems that comes with their use. A lot of effort to install, should not be used as a tire chock, can be detrimental to the axle spindles, and dangerous if not removed before moving the trailer.



I have the Fastway ONESTEP chocks which puts tension on the bottom of both tires stabilizing and chocking the trailer tires at the same time. No issue with potential spindle damage, safe and easy to use, stabilizes the trailer, and works well for chocking the tires. Literally, it takes me less than 5 seconds to lock the trailer tires with it and less than that to remove them.



Please! Help to understand why anyone would buy a X-chock today when there are much better products on the market.

What "fascination"? I have them and they work. Certainly not fascinating. I've experienced zero problems with them, going on 5 years of use. They're also really easy to set up - maybe 30 seconds on each side at most. They also make the trailer feel very stable underfoot, which is something chocks alone don't do.