Leveling Issue

[bonitaraders]

Not sure how to fix my problem with my trailer ball not wanting to release when I try and raise one side to level and then when it does it rolls off whatever I used to level and the whole trailer comes forward.. Quite dangerous. It almost hit my TV yesterday. It also almost slipped off the piece I had supporting the tongue. It seems to be doing this more and more. I thought it was the ball needing to be cleaned but when it doesn't have pressure it releases fine. Someone told me to put my TV in neutral to release the pressure and I tried that and when it released the TV went back. Didn't see exactly what hit but I heard a lot of noise! Was thinking of putting those pieces between the tires to keep it from rolling forward but wanted input to see if I have some other problems or an easy fix.

[stephen99]

You definitely want to chock the wheels before attempting to unhitch. If you backed into the spot the ball is likely too far back in the hitch to come off smoothly. Move the TV forward a half inch or so. If you pulled forward into the spot then the ball is too far forward in the hitch. Back the TV a half inch.

[Ron in BC]

I agree, never even think about disconnecting from the ball unless the wheels are chocked. You can leave them a little bit away from the wheel, not wedged in tight. That allows for a little bit of shifting position which might be needed for the hitch to release.

Yes, sometimes a bit of wiggle and jiggle is needed but let it be you moving the tug incrementally, forward or back, with the trailer chocked.

Ron

[Chotch]

Always chock the wheels before unhitching. Saw a trailer almost go into a lake one time and by the time they pulled it up the bank I think it was ready for the boneyard. When using the Anderson levelers they actually act as a chock also.

[Greg and Kathy]

It definitely sounds like he is not using chocks front and back. Funny story, i learned to always block front and back while camped at Mittry Lake neay yuma. We were camped on a spot that had a nice slope up to the front so i thought it can only roll down to the lake so i blocked all 4 tires on the back. Was good until a big wind came up ( this was my old box stick trailer. ). Trailer was pushed by the wind until the rear wheel stopped by the front tire chock. Far enough to come off the tongue blocks. Now with my 5TA i block front and back

[Rossue]

Originally Posted by bonitaraders

Not sure how to fix my problem with my trailer ball not wanting to release when I try and raise one side to level and then when it does it rolls off whatever I used to level and the whole trailer comes forward.. Quite dangerous. It almost hit my TV yesterday. It also almost slipped off the piece I had supporting the tongue. It seems to be doing this more and more. I thought it was the ball needing to be cleaned but when it doesn't have pressure it releases fine. Someone told me to put my TV in neutral to release the pressure and I tried that and when it released the TV went back. Didn't see exactly what hit but I heard a lot of noise! Was thinking of putting those pieces between the tires to keep it from rolling forward but wanted input to see if I have some other problems or an easy fix.

Bonita- had to dig a little to see you now own an Escape 21. Your avatar shows a 16 Casita. Knowing you have tandem axles helps and would say we have the problem you describe almost regularly as we boondock most of the time. If you really want assurance of a tight hold use BAL X Chocks and cinch down tight. I will also use heavy rubber chocks and roll forward or backwards depending on slope first to set and then use the X Chocks. Otherwise sometimes with a lateral slope once you come off the ball the tongue can slide sideways a bit and even come off your blocks. Then you may have difficulty getting the tongue up high enough to get back on the ball. That is why I love my extending foot on the Bulldog jack as before lowering it I can drop the leg a step or two vs. placing blocks that it can more easily slide on.

[bonitaraders]

I always chock but it will either bury the regular chocks or move them forward.. That is why I 2as thinking of using the ones I have that open up between the wheels..

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by bonitaraders

Was thinking of putting those pieces between the tires to keep it from rolling forward...

Like Ross, I'm guess that this is an Escape 21' (your profile still says "16 foot casita"), but as long as it is an Escape larger than the 17' it has tandem axles. With tandem axles you can use a brake device such as the BAL X-Chock or one the devices consisting of two wedge blocks connected by a screw (e.g. Camco Wheel Stop), and with any trailer you can use any of the many designs of actual chocks, to keep the trailer from moving after it is unhitched.

With the trailer stable, you can unhitch with the tow vehicle in neutral to make the coupler easier to release from the ball, but make sure that the tow vehicle doesn't roll away.

[CharlesPou]

I didn't see anyone say use grease on the ball, so that's my suggestion. I know messy, but helps unhook, especially if you are having trouble.

when we picked up our 2018 Escape 21, we were told to use graphite spray lub instead of grease. I tried it awhile, had issues, and soon went back to messy grease. cheers

[Hancock]

Originally Posted by bonitaraders

Not sure how to fix my problem with my trailer ball not wanting to release when I try and raise one side to level and then when it does it rolls off whatever I used to level and the whole trailer comes forward.. Quite dangerous. It almost hit my TV yesterday. It also almost slipped off the piece I had supporting the tongue. It seems to be doing this more and more. I thought it was the ball needing to be cleaned but when it doesn't have pressure it releases fine. Someone told me to put my TV in neutral to release the pressure and I tried that and when it released the TV went back. Didn't see exactly what hit but I heard a lot of noise! Was thinking of putting those pieces between the tires to keep it from rolling forward but wanted input to see if I have some other problems or an easy fix.

We got tired of fighting the factory hitch. Had it cut off and replaced with a bulldog hitch. Much better. When it is on, it is on, no question about it.

[Greg A]

I second the Bulldog coupler. Used to have all kinds of problems getting the original coupler to release and now with the Bulldog that has all been eliminated. Not to mention the original coupler was noisy and sloppy, which has also been eliminated with the Bulldog.

[fudge_brownie]

I have a bull dog coupler and it does not solve this problem. The issue is chocks are not tight enough against the tire, and there is nothing you can do to keep them from sliding or some movement once uncoupled. I even use the heavy weight rubber blocks, they still slide.

The correct answer is what Brian suggests above, a tire locking mechanism along with the chocks.

[Rossue]

Release is one problem and what happens next is potentially another depending on Slope. When you have both problems then your troubles are truly compounded.

Btw, found this little ditty re: Bulldog couplers:

Founded in 1919 in Wausau, WI above a car dealership by inventor Thomas J Jacob after an accident with a poorly-designed trailer hitch killed one of his prized hunting dogs, Bulldog is still in business. Several acquisitions later as part of Cequent Performance Products, Bulldog is still a leading manufacturer of high-quality Bulldog trailer hitches. With Cequent’s resources at their back, they promise to be in the same place after their second hundred years in business. more details on - https://www.carid.com/bulldog/

Evidently, & not surprisingly they are now made in China.

[Centex]

Originally Posted by Rossue

...
Evidently, & not surprisingly they are now made in China.

A manufacturing location for many very high-quality items ... the product quality being a function of the specifications and QA/QC practices imposed and monitored by the purchaser (Cequent, in this case). But that's true regardless of the location of manufacture.

(I don't think you intended / implied any 'China bashing' - just wanted to opine for those who might be so inclined)

[Hollybee]

we have been having some trouble hitching and unhitching w our new E21c wh has that odd stirrup type locking piece..often very difficult to get the ball UP past the locking piece. WE basically have found that it is often easier to hitch up w the ball lock jammed up atop the ball ...than it is to get that ball IN and flipping the lock piece up under that ball!!
I have finally got it most times..right ..by having the tongue come down, so that it must slide FORWARD about `1/4"-1/2" as it drops over the ball from behind.
WE always chock any wheelsa which has no leveling blocks under them and sometimes leave the safety chains ON..tho I hate that.

[Rossue]

Originally Posted by Hollybee

we have been having some trouble hitching and unhitching w our new E21c wh has that odd stirrup type locking piece..often very difficult to get the ball UP past the locking piece. WE basically have found that it is often easier to hitch up w the ball lock jammed up atop the ball ...than it is to get that ball IN and flipping the lock piece up under that ball!! ...

NO! That is a false hitch with the pawl sitting on top vs. under the ball. Only thing keeping the trailer on the ball in this situation is the tongue weight. Bad idea. What I have learned to do is before unhitching, or backing into a space(particularly uphill)- lift the yoke up when trailer is level. That can be half the battle. As to hitching up, I've learned to put a chock in front or behind a tire depending on upslope(in front) or downslope(behind rear tire) a few inches then roll to it. That will force the coupler either forward or backwards on the ball & the yoke then will seat properly.

[Fox hunt]

i use big rubber chocks from harbor freight that's all i ever needed. When i had my 17 it sometimes would be difficult to hitch unhitch i greased my ball and sometimes i needed to move forward or back to get it to unlock .

[Rossue]

Agree on HF chocks. Sturdy & robust. $7.99 ea.
https://www.harborfreight.com/solid-...ock-96479.html

[h2owmn]

HUGE apologies from a freshly annointed moderator.

I thought I was posting a followup to this, and somehow editted your post. EEEEEEK

-john in santa cruz


original post....

I find things go much smoother if the car is in a straight line with the trailer.

[bdornbush]

I found that the ball releases better if I chock the trailer wheels then leave my TV in park with the brake off. That little bit of play is enough for the ball to disconnect. Also, someone mentioned that the TV and trailer should be in line, both left to right and up and down.