Li-thiiii-um.... continued.

[BobG]

John & Rubicon, I didn't have the refrigerator pigtail because I have the Norcold DC558 but my microwave was wired with the outlets. Unfortunately for me, the outlets and microwave were not combined at the breakers so I can't easily separate the microwave. I use the outlet for auxiliary electric heater when it is cold and I am on shore power. I have to carefully manage this situation because the microwave and heater combined are close to 20 amps.


Rubicon, The snow melted so I was able to attached a picture of the solar panel mounting. I used IronRidge XR100 Rail and L brackets. I used AM Solar Standard 3-Hole Solar Panel "Foot" with their mount adapters (clips). I bolted the clips to the solar panels using the panel manufacturer's bolt holes. I may raise the panels to the next mounting hole in the "Foot" brackets. I did not use the provided IronRidge twist in bolts for holding the panels to the rail. I used hex head bolts with blue loctite.


I wish I had used a little longer rails so I could more easily mount other things like antenna to the rails with more distance from the solar panels. I could have used a taller rails and taller "Foot" brackets to raise the panels and if I was doing it again I would consider doing so.

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

The utility pigtail is common for wiring RV converters. I ditched it and put on dedicated 15A breaker like you are contemplating. Worked out well especially since it is now only a backup and a Xantrex Freedom XC inverter/charger takes care of the lithium battery.

heh, yeah. I cut off the Y, connected the PD4655 'live' to the 15A breaker on top, and will connnect the fridge wire when I get a new breaker tomorrow. problem solved.

[John in Santa Cruz]

now I need to build my DC panel.

right now, I"m thinking a plywood board with terminal connections for the Solar PV+ and -, and for the battery. big fuses, smart shunt, cutoff switch on the solar PV, the MPPT 100/30 solar converter. putting it at the back of the curbside bench where the batteries are. I should put it center rear, hah! (we have the U bench on our 21 classic) still thinkin' ...

[John in Santa Cruz]

did I mention that I got a bunch of 4 AWG battery wire? I'll do the primary battery wiring all in the 4 gauge, just because I have what I need to do it. I don't think I can run AWG4 into the battery connection on the power converter so I'll need to stage it but the shorter the narrower gauge the less overall resistance, and the faster it should charge...

[BobG]

John, I like your idea of having the batteries and heavy stuff in the center of the trailer with short conductors to high amp loads. If you go with the Norcold DC558 refrigerator I would consider oversize the circuit to reduce voltage drop below 1%. I can't hurt.

[BobG]

John, another thought in regards to the refrigerator, if you oversize its conductor then you can use a larger fuse. I don't know if that would matter much but one thing that makes me a little nervous about refrigerator circuits is if the breaker/fuse gets tripped prematurely.

[oldwave]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

I may have to rewire all the way back to the converter to get max charge rates. I have some AWG4 wire. But for now, I was hoping to leave the basic wires along, and connect them. I am replacing 2 x GC2 6V 210AH flooded golf cart batteries with 2 x 12V 200AH LiFePO4 in parallel.

I swapped all the wirenut connectors for WAGO ‘s . Also after the inverter install and sub-panel, there were no sharing circuits on a single breaker.

[John in Santa Cruz]

fwiw, i'm getting the norcold N2175... this is a tall fridge, with a lower pullout freezer drawer. its 7 amps max on DC (about 100 watts), rated for a typical consumption of 560 watt*hours/day. I have 5100 watt*hours of batteries arriving today (2 x 12V 200AH SOK Lithium)

[John in Santa Cruz]

So,,, the SOK 206AH don't squeeze into the gc2 battery box, oh well. ran out of light so I'll tackle removing the battery box tomorrow and figuring what i can use for a strap style hold down. The SOK batteries are in very substantial steel cases.

so tonights project was to try out the new hex hydraulic crimper I picked up on some 4AWG cables, I made the jumpers I'll need to parallel the two batteries.

[John in Santa Cruz]

anyone got any ideas where I can find a battery box that will inside fit 16" long, 13" wide, and 13" high ? thats about what two of these SOK's requires. they are each 12.9 x 7.9 x 12.3" high including the handles and terminals.

[tacchino]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

anyone got any ideas where I can find a battery box that will inside fit 16" long, 13" wide, and 13" high ? thats about what two of these SOK's requires. they are each 12.9 x 7.9 x 12.3" high including the handles and terminals.

Do you need a box? What about just strapping them down? I surrounded mine with small wood pieces screwed into the floor and then added brackets to the end pieces to run battery straps through. Keeps everything in place very well.

[BobG]

Here is what I did with straps and floor blocking. I have seen other examples of people using straps. I think SOK has strong metal case so some sort of strap might work.

[JeffreyG]

My trailer is new (October 2021) and I ordered it with Li batteries and solar pre-wire as that was the simplest way to get it to the state I wanted before my own modifications. I added the rest of the solar and moved stuff around under the dinette to shift the batteries inside from the front storage box.

Relevant to your question on tying them down, I would want to use a battery box or make one if I was putting the batteries on the tongue or in the front storage box.

As mine were in the dinette, I don't need to protect the terminals from luggage, but I did need to tie them down. So I just unscrewed all of the blocking strips and re-used the clamps and wood block that ETI had already used to secure the batteries in the front box. Orientation was different, but a saw made the bits I need.

You can't see the wood blocks screwed into the floor here to prevent sliding (they are down there) but you can see the top wood piece that clamps the batteries in place.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

did I mention that I got a bunch of 4 AWG battery wire? I'll do the primary battery wiring all in the 4 gauge, just because I have what I need to do it. I don't think I can run AWG4 into the battery connection on the power converter so I'll need to stage it but the shorter the narrower gauge the less overall resistance, and the faster it should charge...

John: As you've probably seen the lugs on the WFCO DC board are pretty substantial and accept at least 6AWG. With 4AWG you just might have to cut a few strands away until it fits.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by tacchino

Do you need a box? What about just strapping them down? I surrounded mine with small wood pieces screwed into the floor and then added brackets to the end pieces to run battery straps through. Keeps everything in place very well.

Originally Posted by BobG

Here is what I did with straps and floor blocking. I have seen other examples of people using straps. I think SOK has strong metal case so some sort of strap might work.

Completely agree. No need to deal with a battery box with lithium batteries like the SOK with a substantial case. My Bestgo is made very similar. I made an oversized wood platform and used some wood pieces on the sides and a hefty Class T fuse holder at the rear to keep it from sliding. Then used a tie down strap with footman loops screwed into the wood pieces to hold it down securely. Mine is from AM Solar because I was ordering other parts but this is generic and can probably be found much cheaper elsewhere. Works great.
https://amsolar.com/rv-battery-accessories/40-strap

Not shown but I did use some vinyl battery terminal protectors that came with the Bestgo battery for good measure in case something is dropped with the dinette seat open it doesn't have a chance of shorting across the terminals. They were something like this just not as nice:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/smp-bp51b

[Centex]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

... Not shown but I did use some vinyl battery terminal protectors that came with the Bestgo battery for good measure in case something is dropped with the dinette seat open it doesn't have a chance of shorting across the terminals. They were something like this just not as nice:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/smp-bp51b

Just FYI for those interested, Blue Sea Systems has a variety of nice rubber terminal insulators, PKYS is one source: https://shop.pkys.com/Insulators

I'm a fan of such 'insurance' given the high current present and the fact that 'accidental tool drops' can occur when working in these areas. Other protective measures such as separate physical shields or different DIY insulation may serve the purpose, but IMO 'terminal boots' are a mighty easy and cost-effective solution both for initial installation and later maintenance / service situations.

[oldwave]

Notice in this picture the base of the replaced battery box and you will see a welded rame with tie down tabs. I had my local machine shop make it up. Overkill but extremely stable

[John in Santa Cruz]

absootuvely for sure i'm gonna insulate those terminals, or put some sort of cover over tthe pair of the batts. 12V at 100A+ is no joke and can arc weld. The SOK came with rubber covers, but they only support a single wire, and 2 of my 4 battery terminals will have 2 x AWG 4 terminals on them as I'm paralleling two of them

Test fitting the batteries (using existing wiring for now).

[Vermilye]

I also skipped the battery box when I went to three Battleborn batteries. I cut a piece of 1/2" plywood the size of the three batteries, added a lip around the bottom of 2" X 2" X 1/16" Aluminum angle, and straps.

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by Vermilye

I also skipped the battery box when I went to three Battleborn batteries. I cut a piece of 1/2" plywood the size of the three batteries, added a lip around the bottom of 2" X 2" X 1/16" Aluminum angle, and straps.

yeah, i was thinking about just screwing alum angles like that directly to the floor, and securing a loop for the strapping on either side through the flange... something like this...
https://www.cargoequipmentcorp.com/1...-Plate-Bent-90
or
https://www.cargoequipmentcorp.com/1...late-1-000-lbs

actually, instead of straps, I might just use the original threaded rods and wooden crossbar that went over the battery box lid. maybe use steel instead of alum 1" angle pieces on the floor, and drill holes in the vertical part for said hooks, leaving enough room between the angle irons and the battery for the hook to clear.

the Escape flooring is 1/2" ply plus linoleum, so I feel fairly safe pilot drilling it 1/2" deep for the fattest wood screws I can find that will only protrude no more than 1/2... thats how I secured the Springfield pedestal for my table, and its rock solid.