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Old 08-31-2018, 12:31 PM   #1
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Making water connection safer-easier

Hi all. My water hose is hard for me to connect and it leaks at the trailer end, where the regulator is. Another camper in a park said I could get "quick connect" system to make it easier to connect
and a better hose (said mine was broken) ... that is not so rigid and easier to store. Also recommended a filter. Any suggestions on an "easy connect" system, better hose that is not so rigid, and/or a filter?? Thanks.
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Old 08-31-2018, 12:35 PM   #2
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I don't think you'll be able to close the hatch with a quick connect apparatus in place.
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Old 08-31-2018, 12:39 PM   #3
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Also the regulator should be at the spigot and just a hose at the trailer, attaching something else can cause leaks at that attachment point.
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Old 08-31-2018, 01:44 PM   #4
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Fishers,
I’ve seen some pretty sophisticated water pressure reducing rigs, but my current set-up is the following:

Brass hose splitter, about $6 at Walmart. More on this, later. Connects to the campground.
Next is the brass pressure reducer, that safeguards everything that follows from extreme pressures. About $8 at Walmart.
Next is the 9 inch blue plastic water filter that everybody seems to have. Maybe $25 for two.
Next is the white RV type hose, so it won’t taste like a hose. 25 feet is adequate most times.
The hose goes to the plastic trailer connection.
Some people attach a 90 degree fitting at the trailer before connecting the hose, but I haven’t found that necessary, so long as the heavy filter is over near the beginning.

I originally thought I’d only use the hose splitter (connect it to the campground water) maybe once a year. Now I use it every time. It has two lever valves and allows outside water right there at the water supply, even while everything else stays connected. As important, the splitter allows the filter to fit, even on low spigots, since the splitter allows two possible connection angles for the rest of everything, especially the long filter.
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Old 08-31-2018, 02:04 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill and Earline View Post
Fishers,
I’ve seen some pretty sophisticated water pressure reducing rigs, but my current set-up is the following:

Brass hose splitter, about $6 at Walmart. More on this, later. Connects to the campground.
Next is the brass pressure reducer, that safeguards everything that follows from extreme pressures. About $8 at Walmart.
Next is the 9 inch blue plastic water filter that everybody seems to have. Maybe $25 for two.
Next is the white RV type hose, so it won’t taste like a hose. 25 feet is adequate most times.
The hose goes to the plastic trailer connection.
Some people attach a 90 degree fitting at the trailer before connecting the hose, but I haven’t found that necessary, so long as the heavy filter is over near the beginning.

I originally thought I’d only use the hose splitter (connect it to the campground water) maybe once a year. Now I use it every time. It has two lever valves and allows outside water right there at the water supply, even while everything else stays connected. As important, the splitter allows the filter to fit, even on low spigots, since the splitter allows two possible connection angles for the rest of everything, especially the long filter.

We do basically the same. We always use the 90 degree fitting at the trailer, so that the hose hangs straight down. Also, we thread in the 90° fitting first, then have a brass to brass threaded connection at the hose-to-90°, as our last connection to make up.
At the supply end, we also have a 6" flex connector - hose with spiral wire reinforcement, again, so things can hang down, not out.


Edit: We have a 25 ft. hose, and now a 10 ft. hose also, because one campground was set up where we couldn't reach their faucet. Many times, now, the 10 ft. hose is all we need to reach the supply.
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Old 08-31-2018, 02:09 PM   #6
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I’ve always put the filter by the trailer, right or wrong. Also be sure to throughly flush a new filter. Camping neighbor didn’t and had black water. Loren
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Old 08-31-2018, 02:56 PM   #7
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I’ve always put the filter by the trailer, right or wrong. Also be sure to throughly flush a new filter. Camping neighbor didn’t and had black water. Loren
Why not install the filter before the hose and keep it clean as well as the water going into the camper?
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Old 08-31-2018, 05:26 PM   #8
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I dislike using the typical city water fitting, which requires turning a collar onto the non-rotating hose. My solution is to use a common quick-connect hose fitting (available as generic house brand bits, but Gardena parts of the same interchangeable design seem to work and seal better), leaving the male part (normally used on a hose accessory, Gardena calls it an Accessory Adapter) in the city water fitting, so the female part (normally used on the outlet end of a hose) which is on the hose clicks onto it. Yes, the fitting on the city water port sticks out. Also, since I leave this in place (the whole point is to not use the stock city water inlet garden hose thread), it needs a matching cap.

The hose-end coupler of this system is normally a "water stop": it has a built-in valve which shuts off flow when it is disconnected. I don't like that because it interferes with free flow when connected, so I have removed the valve from the hose-end connector (which is a generic brass part, not the Gardena product).

I think in an ideal world all freshwater components would quick-connect together, except of course the adapter which goes on the campsite's faucet (which will need to be a standard 3/4" garden hose thread). I don't have everything set up that way, currently. There's always another project...

When I use a filter (which I have been doing recently), I connect the regulator assembly to the faucet, connect the filter to that with a short hose, and then the long hose runs from filter to RV.
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Old 08-31-2018, 05:59 PM   #9
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Old 08-31-2018, 06:19 PM   #10
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Water connection leaks

To the OP issue about leaking. I dont know if this is at all the same causal pathway, but we had the same problem on our trailer--leaking at faucet, at the filter and at the connection to the trailer when on city water at campgrounds.
This summer we were camping with a friend who had just retired from the local water department. She said to really crank down on the connection in order to squash the washer a little bit. Did so and problem cured! Note that this involved all women campers so me squashing a washer is less force than a man with average strength. Apparently we had just been too wishy-washy in tightening things.

For what its worth anyway.
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Old 08-31-2018, 08:57 PM   #11
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... She said to really crank down on the connection in order to squash the washer a little bit. Did so and problem cured!

After a while of squashing the washer, the washer stays squashed, and a new one is required. It's always worth checking to see if the connection just needs a fresh washer... or just needs a washer at all to replace one that is missing.
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Old 09-01-2018, 12:26 AM   #12
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After a while of squashing the washer, the washer stays squashed, and a new one is required. It's always worth checking to see if the connection just needs a fresh washer... or just needs a washer at all to replace one that is missing.
Not all garden hose washers are created equal - some more pliable, rubbery and conforming (good), some more rigid and plastic-like (bad). Being a discerning washer-shopper can solve a lot of potential hose connection leaks before they happen. I, too, prefer to put the water filter near the site faucet to: 1) help keep the inside of the hose cleaner and 2) let the site faucet support the weight of the filter rather than our camper connection port.
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Old 09-01-2018, 01:43 AM   #13
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Yes, rubber washers, not some just slightly flexible plastic!

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Originally Posted by War Eagle View Post
I, too, prefer to put the water filter near the site faucet to
...
2) let the site faucet support the weight of the filter rather than our camper connection port.
My water filter sits on the ground, leaning against the post that usually has the faucet and/or power receptacle on it, connected to the regulator by a short hose. I've been in lots of sites where I wouldn't want to try supporting a water-filled filter housing from the faucet... because people who build these things don't seem to understand that wall-mounted faucets exist (and they just stick a valve in a plastic pipe and sort of strap the pipe to a post).
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Old 09-01-2018, 09:36 AM   #14
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... they just stick a valve in a plastic pipe and sort of strap the pipe to a post).
We've not had the pleasure of staying at such a ritzy camp ground that they use that new-fangled glitzy plastic pipe. Every place we've stayed so far has those old-fashioned, passe steel freeze-proof yard faucets. And there has always been a seemingly safe distance between water and electricity - so far, anyway!
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Old 09-01-2018, 09:45 AM   #15
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Woodfords

Those passe’ freeze proof hydrants are manufactured by a number of companies. The Woodford company makes the best one I’ve installed in the past. And the most dependable and repairable ( not a throw-away the first time it leaks by) is the, wait for it, IOWA model.
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Old 09-01-2018, 09:33 PM   #16
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Those passe’ freeze proof hydrants are manufactured by a number of companies. The Woodford company makes the best one I’ve installed in the past. And the most dependable and repairable ( not a throw-away the first time it leaks by) is the, wait for it, IOWA model.
Iowa Dave
I'm afraid I'm dealing with one of those throw-away brands at our barn. I think the rubber gasket in the bottom has worked its way loose and jammed the control rod inside the pipe shaft. Luckily, it's jammed in the off position, and there is a shut-off valve at the house. So it should be pretty easy to replace once we get a good penetrating rain and the red clay packed around it softens up a bit. I thought I might find parts, but I can't even find a manufacturer's name on the thing. But at your recommendation, I'm on a quest now to locate a Woodford Iowa model.
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Old 09-01-2018, 10:16 PM   #17
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Up in our country they are pretty common so they carry them at Lowe’s, Home Depot
and Ace hardware. The repair kit is about $20. We had about 6 or 8 spares so if one got sand in it and roughed up the stopper we would get a seasonal to dig it up and then the maintenance man would install a rebuilt. In the winter of of the golf superintendents who never wasted a dime would rebuild them for the rest of the shops. It was nice to have water about any time of the year especially when we used to flood the ground ice rinks.
We always used the 60 inch bury size in the Y-1 model.
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Old 09-01-2018, 11:06 PM   #18
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Its also worth checking to make sure you still have a washer in your hose connector. I had trouble with leaking, and when I went to check the washer it was missing entirely. Problem solved... luckily I had a spare.
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Old 09-01-2018, 11:22 PM   #19
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Like Brian, I like those fat black rubber washers that are almost like an O ring. The soft red ones aren’t too bad as opposed to the stiff, flat red ones and especially the plastic yellow jobs. I buy a bag every spring and change out my hoses at home and the three I have in the front box. (25,10,6 ft). I hate a leaky hose or hose nozzle. The only hose that should leak is a soaker hose.
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Old 09-01-2018, 11:55 PM   #20
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Those passe’ freeze proof hydrants are manufactured by a number of companies. The Woodford company makes the best one I’ve installed in the past. And the most dependable and repairable ( not a throw-away the first time it leaks by) is the, wait for it, IOWA model.
Iowa Dave
Sorry for my in attention. When you mentioned Woodford, my mind drifted:https://www.google.com/search?q=wood...lfoAMG5dMhqJM:
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