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Old 10-06-2019, 08:40 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
Maybe I am confused but after looking at my trailer and at the floor plan for the Escape 5.0 something doesn’t jive .
The GFCI on the outside of the trailer on my trailer and in the drawing is on the passenger side of the trailer and the microwave is on the driver’s side of the trailer .
Isn’t the microwave on the non GFCI protected circuit
Bad / tripped breaker , liose connection , hot or neutral , tripped inverter breaker ?
That's my thought too. The outside GFCI is not on the MW circuit. On mine the MW, the fridge, the drivers side, loft, and the outlet just to the right of the entry door as you are going in are all one the 1 breaker. No idea if the MW or the fridge have a GFCI on their outlets, the rest do not.
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Old 10-06-2019, 08:49 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
Maybe I am confused but after looking at my trailer and at the floor plan for the Escape 5.0 something doesn’t jive .
The GFCI on the outside of the trailer on my trailer and in the drawing is on the passenger side of the trailer and the microwave is on the driver’s side of the trailer .
Isn’t the microwave on the non GFCI protected circuit
Bad / tripped breaker , liose connection , hot or neutral , tripped inverter breaker ?
My post above shows the GFCI just so they can learn where it is. I agree that is not the problem. Once they find the gray electrical box with the two extra breakers I pointed out above this mystery will likely be solved.
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Old 10-06-2019, 11:49 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
My post above shows the GFCI just so they can learn where it is.
It's a good reminder to folks that it's there and a potential cause of no power at another outlet. There have been previous cases where it was the culprit.

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Old 10-06-2019, 02:31 PM   #24
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FWIW, I've had my GFCI trip after rainstorms when there's not even anything plugged into any of the 120V outlets.
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Old 10-06-2019, 03:30 PM   #25
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Back in the 70’s when GFCI protection first came into use we soon discovered that placing a GFCI receptacle outside and feeding interior receptacles off that GFCI led to nuisance tripping. Going outside in the rain or digging through the snow to reset a GFCI so the downstream bathroom receptacle would work led to unhappy customers .
If possible I plan on rewiring the circuit and replacing the kitchen receptacle with a GFCI receptacle . That way if the outdoor GFCI trips , the interior receptacles would still work and the GFCI protection would not be compromised
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Old 10-06-2019, 04:22 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
If possible I plan on rewiring the circuit and replacing the kitchen receptacle with a GFCI receptacle . That way if the outdoor GFCI trips , the interior receptacles would still work and the GFCI protection would not be compromised
Isn't the path through the exterior GFCI and then on to the kitchen receptacle?

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Old 10-06-2019, 04:27 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
Isn't the path through the exterior GFCI and then on to the kitchen receptacle?

Ron
yes, he'd need to rewire it so the two receptacles are in parallel so they each have their own GFCI
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Old 10-06-2019, 05:15 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
Isn't the path through the exterior GFCI and then on to the kitchen receptacle?

Ron
Yes the 120 VAC power feeds the outside GFCI ( Line Side) and the load side of the outside GFCI feeds the other receptacles on the circuit ( Kitchen )
I would need to resplice the wires at the outside GFCI
and then add a GFCI in the kitchen .
That way if the outside GFCI trips it only shuts down the outside receptacle and the kitchen continues to work. Considering a GFCI receptacle is under $20 , it’s worth the cost to me .
Going out in a pouring rain to reset the outside GFCI so I can make a pot if coffee in the kitchen is a PITA —IMHO
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Old 10-06-2019, 05:24 PM   #29
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Microwave not getting power? on the 5.0

Quote:
Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
Yes the 120 VAC power feeds the outside GFCI ( Line Side) and the load side of the outside GFCI feeds the other receptacles on the circuit ( Kitchen )

I would need to resplice the wires at the outside GFCI

and then add a GFCI in the kitchen .

That way if the outside GFCI trips it only shuts down the outside receptacle and the kitchen continues to work. Considering a GFCI receptacle is under $20 , it’s worth the cost to me .

Going out in a pouring rain to reset the outside GFCI so I can make a pot if coffee in the kitchen is a PITA —IMHO

I’ve never liked this arrangement either. Hmmm...I’m trying to check things OFF of my mod list, but somehow more things keep getting put on there [emoji849]

I did make a headboard yesterday [emoji16]
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Old 10-06-2019, 06:06 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
Isn't the path through the exterior GFCI and then on to the kitchen receptacle?

Ron
Yes. Something that Escape should change. The outside GFCI is more likely to trip due to water, and a PIA to reset if it is raining. My 2011 17B was wired with the GFCI inside, chained to the outside receptacle. I wish they hadn't changed it on my 2017 21.
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Old 10-06-2019, 08:08 PM   #31
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Yes. Something that Escape should change. The outside GFCI is more likely to trip due to water, and a PIA to reset if it is raining. My 2011 17B was wired with the GFCI inside, chained to the outside receptacle. I wish they hadn't changed it on my 2017 21.
Jon, rewiring is easy - once you get rid of those "special" outlets. Not a great idea in my book to have outlets that requires a special crimper to install them.

When the current outlets have been replaced with standard electrical boxes, the GFCI in the kitchen gets installed. I have a collection of these ready to go - just waiting for cooler weather.

https://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-.../dp/B000NDZ24I
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Old 10-06-2019, 08:38 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by tdf-texas View Post
Jon, rewiring is easy - once you get rid of those "special" outlets. Not a great idea in my book to have outlets that requires a special crimper to install them.

When the current outlets have been replaced with standard electrical boxes, the GFCI in the kitchen gets installed. I have a collection of these ready to go - just waiting for cooler weather.

https://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-.../dp/B000NDZ24I
Maybe your 21 has more space between the cabinet door & the top of the counter. I could not find a electrical box that would fit the space where the current countertop receptacle is located. I still should be able to rewire it with either a GFCI breaker or add a box somewhere else, wire it as the first in line, and place a GFCI receptacle in it One of those projects I haven't done yet...
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Old 10-06-2019, 08:47 PM   #33
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Maybe your 21 has more space between the cabinet door & the top of the counter. I could not find a electrical box that would fit the space where the current countertop receptacle is located. I still should be able to rewire it with either a GFCI breaker or add a box somewhere else, wire it as the first in line, and place a GFCI receptacle in it One of those projects I haven't done yet...
Thanks Jon, I haven't measured that spot to see if it will fit yet. This may be more of a challenge than I thought!
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Old 10-06-2019, 08:56 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Vermilye View Post
Maybe your 21 has more space between the cabinet door & the top of the counter. I could not find a electrical box that would fit the space where the current countertop receptacle is located. I still should be able to rewire it with either a GFCI breaker or add a box somewhere else, wire it as the first in line, and place a GFCI receptacle in it One of those projects I haven't done yet...
Good idea on the GFCI breaker. Just replace the outdoor outlet with a regular one and a GFCI breaker in the power center and you’d be done.
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Old 10-06-2019, 09:02 PM   #35
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In my Casita I ran a 12-2 NM from the converter panel to the kitchen and cut in a new GFCI receptacle . I believe this may be the best option in my Escape versus messing with the factory wiring / receptacles . I will keep my experiences with and my opinion of those “SPECIAL RECEPTACLES “ to myself .
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Old 10-07-2019, 09:49 AM   #36
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Dori and Mena: My guess is the GFI reset is not the problem because they don’t trip on overload only ground faults as designed. That said it is easy to find and check outside on the outlet under the flip cap (see photo one...you want to hit the reset button...your finger is almost on it). Since you mention you have an inverter in your trailer tour video and that the microwave can run off of it I suspect you have a gray electrical box or “load center” with another pair of 15A breakers under one of the dinette seats (see second photo). These breakers are your protection when there is no shore power and the automatic transfer switch flips 120V power from the inverter to these circuits. Find and reset these breaker(s) and I’m betting your problem is solved.
It was the other pair of 15A breakers under the dinette seat! Thanks a million. Everything is back to normal.

Also thanks to everyone who replied. Greatly appreciated !
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Old 10-07-2019, 10:48 AM   #37
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You're not the first folks to be caught out by "those other breakers". Maybe ETI should put a reminder note on the main panel.

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Old 10-07-2019, 11:12 AM   #38
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It was the other pair of 15A breakers under the dinette seat! Thanks a million. Everything is back to normal.

Also thanks to everyone who replied. Greatly appreciated !
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Old 10-07-2019, 11:15 AM   #39
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Maybe ETI should put a reminder note on the main panel.
Ron: They apparently have in new trailers. They did in this 2019 21 that I worked on.
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Old 10-07-2019, 11:21 AM   #40
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Microwave not getting power? on the 5.0

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
You're not the first folks to be caught out by "those other breakers". Maybe ETI should put a reminder note on the main panel.



Ron


They do. Panel from our 2017 19. (Ignore the red arrow)

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Edit: Dave beat me to it [emoji6]
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