Minor Body Repair?

[DT6]

Had a strange incident when someone in a nearby downtown area did not like us driving by with a portable home, so they took a swing at us with something (as best I could tell in the rearview mirror). Anyway, it scraped the beading-band that helps seal the top/bottom halfs of the trailer, and one of the awning arms which had some paint scraped, The fiberglass on the trailer is just fine and undamaged. I looked at this with a magnifying glass and it appears the metal of the bead-band (aluminum) has been exposed, but otherwise it appears the integrity of the band is intact. The awning arm is aluminum and I will probably sand down the paint a bit and repaint. We were lucky just the paint was scraped and the awning arm is otherwise fine and not dented.

I tried to attach pictures, thought I could do that by now, so if they don't show up, the scrape is a small one about 1.5" long on the bead-band near the rear passenger corner of the trailer.

Is it possible to easily replace the bead-band, or is it something that has to be done at a shop? As an alternative, would a shop just be able to "bondo" the spot? If some type of repair is an option do I go to an auto body shop or a boat shop, or something else?

Thanks!

[Ron in BC]

Good grief, we were just commenting this morning how these types of random attacks are happening more and more. Better the trailer took the hit rather than you.

The belly band is aluminum. That's good because if you also paint it to match there won't be any rust developing later.

You certainly should be able to post photos. Try again and we can give you more concrete help.

Ron

[John in Santa Cruz]

the belly band on my escape is an aluminum molding with a rubber insert strip. its purely cosmetic, has nothing to do with sealing, just hiding the kinda ugly seam where the top and bottom moldings are bonded together.

I wouldn't use bondo or any other body filler on an aluminum molding. If its painted white like mine, some touchup paint, perhaps.

[Ooshkaboo]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Good grief, we were just commenting this morning how these types of random attacks are happening more and more. Better the trailer took the hit rather than you.

The belly band is aluminum. That's good because if you also paint it to match there won't be any rust developing later.

You certainly should be able to post photos. Try again and we can give you more concrete help.

Ron

It’s been building, people seem to be on edge, don’t engage if you can avoid it.

The price of gas and everything else is beating people down…

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by DT6

Is it possible to easily replace the bead-band, or is it something that has to be done at a shop? As an alternative, would a shop just be able to "bondo" the spot? If some type of repair is an option do I go to an auto body shop or a boat shop, or something else?

Thanks!

It all comes down to the depth of the scrape. If the depth is shallow, say 1/6" deep then you could probably blend the scrape in and make it pretty unnoticeable. Even pros sometimes have little boo-boos that they blend in to make disappear.

If it's like an 1/8" deep then I'd fill it with epoxy, because it only needs such a small amount, not worth buying a can of bondo for that small amount.

The rubber just pops out, get it out of the way.

Whichever way you go it's course sandpaper, medium and fine. If you're blending, sand a little more onto to the paint. Top coat with the closest matching paint. One trick that I use to make a transition disappear is to taper the paint at the edges, don't have a hard line created by masking tape.

Doesn't cost much to try. You still have the option of taking it to a shop or replacing the belly band if you're not happy.

Ron

[Rockhead]

I’d remove the rubber covering n mix up some JB weld, apply, and sand to a smooth finish.

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by Rockhead

I’d remove the rubber covering n mix up some JB weld, apply, and sand to a smooth finish.

I was thinking the same thing when I saw this.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

I was thinking the same thing when I saw this.

Originally Posted by Rockhead

I’d remove the rubber covering n mix up some JB weld, apply, and sand to a smooth finish.

A rose by any other name......

JB weld is epoxy. The important thing about this type of repair is the feathering in of the repair.

Ron

[DT6]

Thanks for the suggestions regarding JB Weld. I had not even considered that. I think the only thing I'm worried about is matching the paint. I assume I'm going to have to get paint from an auto body shop, unless the JB Weld is white? Or will a spray can of while paint work? (assuming I cover and tape the area surrounding the repair).

[Ron in BC]

Small amounts from a automotive shop are surprisingly expensive and the type of paint almost requires a chemist to work with it. Gone are the days of simple enamel type paints.

There may be a touch up paint kit available.

White on white is pretty forgivable and there's lot's of whites to choose from.

Ron

[gbaglo]

I'd start with an aggressive polishing compound. Son-in-law made scratches in my car's hood, from being keyed, disappear.

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by DT6

Thanks for the suggestions regarding JB Weld. I had not even considered that. I think the only thing I'm worried about is matching the paint. I assume I'm going to have to get paint from an auto body shop, unless the JB Weld is white? Or will a spray can of while paint work? (assuming I cover and tape the area surrounding the repair).

JB Weld comes in a couple of different colors, including white. Water Weld is white, as is Marine Weld.

[Ron in BC]

That could be the easiest solution. If it's still too visible then painting remains an option.

We used a white epoxy for a repair on Myron's trailer at Q'site one year. It wasn't a perfect match but it didn't jump out and get your attention either.

Ron

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

I'd start with an aggressive polishing compound. Son-in-law made scratches in my car's hood, from being keyed, disappear.

You are sure lucky to have your Son -in-law Glenn ! Pat

[John in Santa Cruz]

Escape white, at least on my 2014, is quite 'warm', like an ivory white, as contrasted with a pure white like Ford's Arctic White (or is it Polar White?).

example:

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

Escape white, at least on my 2014, is quite 'warm', like an ivory white, as contrasted with a pure white like Ford's Arctic White (or is it Polar White?).

1st Gen trailers are Colonial White. 2nd Gen are bright white. Reace told me when they started building the 2nd Gen trailers he bought the very best gel coat he could. He hoped a better quality would stop, or at least slow down, the chalking of the gel coat.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

He hoped a better quality would stop, or at least slow down, the chalking of the gel coat.

Nothing slows down chalking like keeping up with the waxing and nothing destroys gelcoat like using a cleaner with any abrasive in it.

Ron

[DT6]

The Water Weld (JB Weld) that Jon recommended worked great! I used some Rustoleum white spray paint to finish it off. I did not spray the trailer directly. Instead I sprayed some onto a piece of cardboard and used a model paint brush to apply it. I don't think anyone would notice it now except for me and that is only because I know exactly where to look. Thanks for the JB Weld suggestions!

[Ron in BC]

And by next week even you won't see it.

Always nice when a DIY project turns out well.

The model paint brush was a good idea. Probably let you feather in the ends avoiding a hard edge between new and old.

Ron

[MyronL]

Ron, had to go digging for this picture of your work on E19. Still looking good.