Mixed fortune

[SageRpod]

Originally Posted by MrLynn

So none of you are using the EZ-lube feature? I just did mine, and once I got the hang of it, seemed to work well.

Is there any limit on how many years I can just EZ-lube the bearings?

A lot of it depends on usage and conditions. There are folks on the Rpod forum that use their trailers as weekend campers and seem to get along just fine for years only greasing bearings via the EZ Lube hub.

Personally I have trust issues and need to see a fully packed bearing set with a generous coating of grease surrounding it to feel confident that my hubs are ready for the road.

[brroberts]

October 2021 E19 with 238 nights. I have EZ lubed once, and pulled them once just because I wanted to check everything. It looked very good inside from the EZlube. The spindle shaft was not packed and the bearings were well greased. Remember to use a good grease, don’t overfill, but get the old grease out, and rotate the tire slowly while greasing. Mine looked great, and now I know. I’ll probably EZ lube 2’s and then tear them down the third. They looked really good and temps have been good both ways. I just really wanted to check them after all the miles.

[SRS]

Originally Posted by MrLynn

So none of you are using the EZ-lube feature? I just did mine, and once I got the hang of it, seemed to work well.

Is there any limit on how many years I can just EZ-lube the bearings?

When I first got the trailer I pulled the drums to check the bearings and their lubrication. They looked good. This year, during de-winterizing, I used the EZ-Lub system to make sure the bearings were well greased. Next time I'll probably bull the drums, clean and repack the bearings by hand with new seals, and possibly finish by adding grease using EZ-Lub. I'm new to EZ-Lub and do have a concern that I might push grease through the seals.

[mtnest]

I did my bearings last spring. Getting the seals out was horribly hard! My younger, smarter engineer/machinist neighbor was as stumped as I was. The bearing removal tool I bought was useless. If memory serves it was simple brute force combined with jury-rigged tools that finally worked. I, too, am convinced the bearings were installed with some sort of ridiculously strong adhesive. -Tom

[Bad-tat]

Ez lube on Haulmark enclosed trailer, 21 years never repacked the old way. Only use Amsoil grease.

[Tonny LR]

Originally Posted by brroberts

I tore mine down on my 2021 the first time recently and the seals were the hardest I ever fad to deal with also.

Seal puller is hard to use and don’t waste your money buying it. The best tool is the castle nut socket with extension or similar size bearing wrench socket , insert the nut from the opposite end of the seal and hammer the seal out. Wheel is supported by 2”x4”. A sponge material to catch the bearing when it drops. Good luck!

[HABBERDABBER]

I tried all manner of tools to get the grease seal out. I destroyed the inner bearing with trying to pound it out.

The seal is very firmly GLUED in place, and a forum poster made the connection....glued so it is not popped out of place when using the EZ lube feature. I agree fully.

Heating the seal area finally worked for me to "soften" the adhesive. A heat gun or propane torch will do the trick.

I've done bearings numerous times before. I'd never before experienced a glued into place grease seal.

[Escape_19]

We have a 2017 E19 - does anyone have the part numbers for the seals/bearings/races?

Also, what is the best place to get them from?

Thanks

Bill

[HABBERDABBER]

Look on your axle, midway underneath your rig. There's a Dexter label there, giving axle info. Either remove it and save it or take a photo of it. Mine was about to drop off on its own.
Search Dexters site, and with the axle info, you should be able to find your numbers.
The parts are somewhat universal.
eTrailer carries Dexter grease seals, as do auto parts stores. Dexter bearings are made in China. Some folks prefer Timken USA made.

I don't have my part # info available.

[brroberts]

I don’t remember the thread, but the complete Dexter part numbers are listed on the forum if you do a search.

[Rossue]

Just reference Dexter #10 axle. From an old thread which is now a sticky:

Inner L 68149
Outer L 44649


Grease seals- you can buy one Dexter grease seal for $5 or 10 Lippert for $29. Have never had a problem with the Lippert seals.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Btw- the timken bearings on Amazon show a Made In USA in the photo, yet in the Country of Origin it says China.
https://www.amazon.com/Timken-SET17-...e%2C155&sr=1-1

[CharlesinGA]

Seal shells have a plastic coating on the outer surface that fuses to the hub. I have never had trouble removing them however.

I highly recommend you get your bearings from either 1) an industrial bearing supplier, or 2) Summit Racing. Summit will be cheaper and in either case you have a known supplier and the bearings are not bogus. I have bought several sets from Summit and bearing sets (bearings with races) and seals are right at $100 for four wheels. I bought a set of bearings, and races (packaged separately) and seals, from an industrial supplier and it ran about $160 about four or five years ago. I highly suggest using the 12 slot bearing/spindle nuts if you do not have them. They are the Dexter standard now and you are able to adjust much closer to zero bearing freeplay. This is only applicable if you have non-ez lube axles and you have cotter pins to lock the nuts.

Click on the other attachment to enlarge it and you can read it, click a second time to magnify it even more. It has bearing and seal numbers plus SET numbers which are races and bearings packaged together.

SET4 is currently $9.09 and SET17 is $13.99 and Timken/National seal 473336 is $6.29 and shipping over $109 is free. Tandem axle total is $117.

Charles