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Old 10-13-2016, 05:20 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin View Post
If the 21's are the same as the 5.0TA's, it's a straight shot. Remove the clean out port cover and you should be able to see either the gate to the gray tank or if it's indeed out of the way, right into the gray tank.
Thanks - I had the new setup that Jim showed on Prairie Schooner in my mind when I posted, but Brent and Cheryl wouldn't have that.
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Old 10-13-2016, 06:57 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Starbrightsteve View Post
But an open tee fitting in the venting system connected to a tank of grey water and the living space is acceptable to the folks that write code
I'm interested to know more about this tee. Are you talking about the one between the shower and sink below the floor?
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Old 10-13-2016, 07:19 PM   #23
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I'm interested to know more about this tee. Are you talking about the one between the shower and sink below the floor?
Here is link with pictures and info, definitely on my list to ask about when I travel to ETI.

http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f3...work-5834.html
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Old 10-13-2016, 07:20 PM   #24
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He's probably referring to the one that runs up the back wall of the bathroom and ends, uncapped, just under the floor of the hanging locker.

The area isn't normally visible except for us folks who have opened up the area for storage and added a second door.

Ron
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Old 10-13-2016, 07:43 PM   #25
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Aha. I'd forgotten about that discussion. Near the end of it, chemando said he talked with ETI, and they reminded him that fumes are blocked by the P-trap beneath the floor (which is actually made up of a couple of 45 degree PVC ells, if I remember correctly), so I guess I'm not too concerned about it. Thanks for the reminder!
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Old 10-13-2016, 07:58 PM   #26
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I assume that open vent is used because of a sink in the bathroom? What if I don't want a sink? I assume the plumbing wouldn't have the vent or is it also to vent the bathroom drain? I also don't like the idea of an open vent in the trailer.
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Old 10-13-2016, 09:51 PM   #27
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It might also assist the shower drain so it might still be there, sink or no sink.

No biggie, ask them to cap it with a cheater vent. IMHO, that's what should have been done anyway. Or, if you open up the area under the furnace for extra storage, highly recommended, you can easily do it yourself.

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Old 10-14-2016, 12:30 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
It might also assist the shower drain so it might still be there, sink or no sink.

No biggie, ask them to cap it with a cheater vent. IMHO, that's what should have been done anyway. Or, if you open up the area under the furnace for extra storage, highly recommended, you can easily do it yourself.

Ron
Ok Ron considering what I will be doing soon , you have my attention . Pat
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Old 10-16-2016, 12:13 PM   #29
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Problem solved! A tech at our local RV service company suggested dissolving a box of baking soda into a gallon of hot water, pouring it down the kitchen sink, leaving it overnight, then draining the tank. It worked!

To be certain, I repeated the process, and am confident the tank is now drained and ready for winterizing. What makes the process harder is that the tank level sensor has never been reliable, and is still reading that the grey water tank is 3/4 full.

Thanks for all your suggestions!
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Old 10-16-2016, 12:24 PM   #30
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Brent, glad to hear it ended up being an easy fix - my favorite kind! I've found that if i leave the waste cap off and the grey valve open when we had our 17 in storage that the grey tank readings slowly went back to empty. Maybe they are really sensitive to any moisture clinging to them and they dry out this way? Another thing I noticed was that often our 1/3 full light was still on after emptying, but if I held the monitor switch on, it would slowly go out. Anyone have a theory on why that would happen?
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