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Old 01-26-2022, 06:47 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Treblemaker View Post
It looks like the leak is where the plastic connection on the pump screws to tighten; it is very tight now. That is why we are wondering about maybe a slight crack on the lower side in that fitting on the pump. When we disassemble, once we figure out how to remove that weird clamp, we will put a more readily accessible one on. (I think Hubby mentioned a radiator style clamp but not for sure.) if that connector is cracked we will see if it can be replaced. Just grateful the problem is isolated and solutions are in sight!
Looks like I was a tad optimistic. Still, no major expensive problem is good.

If you're referring to a pex ring clamp I've found that a hacksaw blade can be used gently cutting diagonally across the clamp. Done carefully you can avoid cutting into the hose.

Your husbands "radiator style clamp" and my "conventional hose clamp" are one and the same.

There's a double jeopardy using pipe sealant or teflon tape on plastic threads. Some pipe sealants are toxic and not suitable for use on potable water piping and teflon tape allows for more force to be applied making the fitting go deeper. If the thread is a tapered pipe thread it can crack the fitting like a wedge would.

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Old 01-26-2022, 06:57 PM   #22
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I don't think the usual screw-to-tighten radiator clamps are suitable for Pex, they don't apply pressure evenly. Get proper Pex clamps and the inexpensive Pex crimping tool
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Old 01-28-2022, 12:38 PM   #23
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I don't think the usual screw-to-tighten radiator clamps are suitable for Pex, they don't apply pressure evenly. Get proper Pex clamps and the inexpensive Pex crimping tool
This is correct; worm gear clamps are not suited to connecting PEX.

However, the connection that is leaking is a connection between the pump and reinforced braided vinyl tubing. Worm-gear clamps are used for connecting vinyl tubing.

Also, PolyAlloy fittings for PEX have raised rings that are much less pronounced than the sawtooth profile of the barbed fittings which are necessary for use with vinyl tubing.

If one were to try and connect vinyl tubing to a PolyAlloy fitting designed for PEX connections, it might not seal properly due to the less aggressive profile of the PolyAlloy PEX fitting.

Incidentally, I picked pictures of fittings without the ends which would connect to the pump, just to avoid any confusion. The five tees shown are designed for PEX, and the two straight connectors are barbed fittings designed for use with vinyl tubing.
Click image for larger version

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Incidentally, the quality of worm-gear clamps varies widely. I used to repair underground connections to polyethylene pipe when I worked maintenance in the 80's. We found that 316 stainless steel clamps purchased from a marine supply store were far superior. We would gently heat the tubing to get it over the barbs, and then tighten the worm-gear clamps with a small socket wrench so we could easily apply enough torque to provide an effective seal to the barbed fittings.

https://www.boatus.com/expert-advice...ut-hose-clamps

Quote:
Tip: When you buy clamps, use a magnet to check both the clamp and the screw or gear housing. It won't stick to good quality stainless.
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Old 01-28-2022, 12:52 PM   #24
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my vague recollection is that there is also a water filter on the supply side of the water pump, with a clear plastic cover over the screen. A few years ago ours developed a hairline crack in the plastic cover, which caused a small leak.
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Old 01-29-2022, 09:08 AM   #25
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I assume this goes without saying, but since I haven't seen it mentioned - you are hooked up to city water in a campground, do you have a pressure regulator on your water connection?


We try to ALWAYS have a pressure regulator on if hooked to city water. Pressure too high can easily cause leaks. We disconnect the regulator when filling our fresh water tank when there is a line of campers behind us.

One time at our seasonal campground John (the owner) was messing with the fresh water. He had gone around and warned others to turn their hydrants off until he gave the OK. We pulled in with our 5.0 and were hooking up when the neighbor came over and warned me. I connected the hose to the hydrant and by holding my thumb over the outlet could spray water three lots away!

Again we try to ALWAYS have the pressure regulator connected at every site. The operative word is "try".

Food for thought,

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Old 01-29-2022, 09:14 AM   #26
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Yes, we have the regulator on our city water hook up! We are currently monitoring the small leak, have it isolated to the 90 degree elbow connection that connects the tubing to the pump. We want to get all possible parts needed assembled before attempting a repair. Turning water off when we are gone and disconnecting, letting pressure off lines. The leak only happens overnight when nothing else has run to release pressure. Thanks for checking!
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Old 01-29-2022, 10:45 AM   #27
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Your plumbing is having a 'nocturnal emission'?
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Old 01-29-2022, 01:10 PM   #28
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Thanks to all of you and your great suggestions! The leak has been isolated! Looks like it is in the connection to the water pump closest to the outside wall. Overnight I set a tiny plastic container under that and had water in it this morning. All other areas are dry. The connection is tight, but we are going to see if it is cracked underneath enough to cause that slow leak. It seems to only happen overnight. We have a regulator on the city water and also run our water through a Frizzlife water filter, so not tons of pressure coming through but apparently enough overnight, The fresh water tanks are still empty so presuming the check valve is still fine. I can’t thank all of you enough for guidance on this!
Two things to consider...if it is the large "nut" fitting on the water pump....
1. I am pretty sure this is a compression fitting...that means DO NOT use a wrench or if you do DO NOT crank on it...you can actually deform the sealing surfaces and create a leak.
2. DO NOT use any type of thread sealer on the upstream side of the pump. It is not necessary for these types of fittings and can actually get in the guts of the pump and cause problems.

Good luck,
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Old 01-29-2022, 01:31 PM   #29
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note that cheap pressure regulators have trouble regulating the pressure when the flow rate is zero.
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Old 01-29-2022, 01:38 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz View Post
note that cheap pressure regulators have trouble regulating the pressure when the flow rate is zero.
Which model do you use? I'm buying all of my little goodies before I take delivery in Oct.
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Old 01-29-2022, 02:22 PM   #31
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I've taken to filling the tank even when I'm at a full hookup station. my city-water hose connection is a bit bungled up, and leaks, I really should get around to replacing it.


oh, this is the pressure regulator I was using, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N7JZTYX
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Old 01-29-2022, 02:34 PM   #32
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I've taken to filling the tank even when I'm at a full hookup station. my city-water hose connection is a bit bungled up, and leaks, I really should get around to replacing it.
Sounds like you need a little from Jethro Tull.
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Old 01-31-2022, 11:36 AM   #33
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I looked at the elbow connecting the pump to the discharge tubing on our 2017 21 and it's labeled "AccuCrimp".

It appears that this is a PEX x swivel pipe-thread fitting. In fact, some of the retailers label the PEX end as a PEX Barb, but you can see that it does not have the sawtooth profile associated with the barb fittings designed for use with vinyl tubing.

I am willing to bet dollars to donuts that the braided vinyl tubing is attached to the pump with a PEX-barb fitting and crimp ring.

Click image for larger version

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The above PEX barb x swivel fitting is in contrast to the swivel elbow listed by Shurflo (Pentair) in their RV catalogue which has the proper barbed end.

Click image for larger version

Name:	Pentair Shorflo Swivel Elbow.jpg
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https://www.pentair.com/content/dam/...rv-catalog.pdf

Perhaps the tubing not being secured under the fridge contributed to the issue. Perhaps the assembler at the factory didn't have his Wheaties and the crimp wasn't fully crimped. In any event, I suspect that the use of a PEX barb with vinyl tubing is going to be marginal as they are not designed to work together.
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Old 02-02-2022, 04:49 PM   #34
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Update! We replaced the water filter on the supply side of the pump and hand tightened all connections again. This morning there were 2 drops of water in the bowl, lots better than the 3-4 tablespoons before. We will keep an eye on this to see if the leak continues, but had to winterize today in anticipation below freezing weather for the next few days.
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Old 02-06-2022, 12:43 PM   #35
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That's good to hear, though it sounds like there's still some uncertainty as to just what connection or part is leaking.

Given that we haven't had a bunch of reports of leaks at these connections on the forum, it appears the factory vinyl tubing connections to PEX-barbs are working okay.
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Old 02-06-2022, 04:07 PM   #36
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Warm days this week so we plan to dewinterize , fill the fresh water tank, and give it a go with the pump. Going to check every possibility! It has worked flawlessly until now, so hoping for the best! Thank you again, everyone, for giving us ideas on how to troubleshoot and what to use for repairs!
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Old 02-10-2022, 09:32 PM   #37
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Hopefully final post from me on this! Changing the water filter, securing the loose line behind a cabinet, and tightening all fittings by hand seems to have solved our issue, We have run a full tank of water through, turned pump on and off multiple times, used city water, etc. Totally dry around the pump for 2 full days now! Thank you to all who chimed in-I learned so much and will certainly have a better handle on water issues if it recurs! You all are awesome.
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