New Dometic 11k on house current won't cool

[MarkC]

I previously checked to see if my Honda eu2200i would run my A/C at 6600 ft altitude - it initially started, would not stay running; subsequent attempts would only engage the fan. Just to double check, I plugged into our 15amp circuit in the garage using a good heavy gauge extension (4 gauge, 25 ft), it still would not fully run the A/C, just air only and I can hear a low growl of the compressor trying. I even tried making a little longer run into our kitchen (2 of the same extension) that has a 20amp plug - no change. Power in looks good via our EMS display.
I was planning to install the EasyStart, but first want to make sure my A/C unit is functioning properly on normal circuits. Am I missing something, or did the initial attempt from the generator possibly cooks something?

Thanks in advance,

Mark

[rotorbudd]

Can you check the EMS panel for voltage, amps and hz while it's trying to start?
Could be the voltage is dropping too low when the big demand hits from the compressor start up.

[MarkC]

Originally Posted by rotorbudd

Can you check the EMS panel for voltage, amps and hz while it's trying to start?
Could be the voltage is dropping too low when the big demand hits from the compressor start up.

Thanks - I'll try to capture that today.

[MarkC]

Originally Posted by rotorbudd

Can you check the EMS panel for voltage, amps and hz while it's trying to start?
Could be the voltage is dropping too low when the big demand hits from the compressor start up.

Gave it a try again this morning and it fired right up - maybe the cooler outside temps. EMS was showing 120v / 60H initially with no load. Upon A/C startup, voltage dropped to 116 / 60H and drawing 14 amps. Once it leveled off, voltage stayed at 116 and amps is ranging between 8 - 10 with most readings right at 9.

All I can surmise is that 15 amps is borderline and if temps are too high there just isn't enough extra juice for a full startup. I'll let it run for a while just to ensure all is well.

Thanks again for the quick reply!

[C&G in FL]

Mark,
If your entry panel is also in the garage you may want to install, or have an electrician who understands 30 amp RV outlets are 120 v and not 240 v in the garage. That way, you will always have adequate power to run the A/C as well as other appliances. The EasyStart is also a good idea given your home elevation if you expect to run the A/C at even higher elevations.
Glad you got it running!

[rotorbudd]

You've got to remember that as voltage drops amperage will increase.
Until I added a easystart I had real problems starting on house 15 amp or Honda 2100 genset.
After the easystart install no problems, even at altitude running on propane.

[TahoeJoe]

Is your fridge on when you're trying to run the A/C? If so, turn it to propane mode only (or off). That will prevent the fridge trying to run off the shore power at the same time...I've found that will help ease the overall load.

[MarkC]

Originally Posted by TahoeJoe

Is your fridge on when you're trying to run the A/C? If so, turn it to propane mode only (or off). That will prevent the fridge trying to run off the shore power at the same time...I've found that will help ease the overall load.

Thanks all for the updates! Fridge (compressor) and all other power sources are off and I've ensured nothing else is on the same circuit I'm plugging into. I think I've confirmed my unit does work, although at times finicky, and will proceed with the EasyStart sometime down the road.

[Iowa Dave]

I have experienced “brown -out” voltages in operations I had oversight for when I was still working. Electric motors would not run sometimes, “kick out and not restart. Then as surrounding usage dropped, the motors would run again. This was on three phase service where 208 voltage would drop below 192. 192 was the lower starting and running threshold. In one instance we had a 20 hp. electric motor reworked so it would run down to 178.

I’ve seen considerable variation in campground voltages but at our home we are close to a large, fairly new substation and the voltage is very consistent on our EMS readout. It’s 122 volts here on either the 20 amp service or the 30 amp RV service both off of our 150 amp sub-panel. Sometimes it’s not your equipment, it can be your service.
Iowa Dave

[blue_bullet]

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

Mark,
If your entry panel is also in the garage you may want to install, or have an electrician who understands 30 amp RV outlets are 120 v and not 240 v in the garage. That way, you will always have adequate power to run the A/C as well as other appliances. The EasyStart is also a good idea given your home elevation if you expect to run the A/C at even higher elevations.
Glad you got it running!

My neighbor electrician just installed an RV 30 amp box outside my shop. A/C runs great now. His comment was it can be hard on everything if you are borderline at 20 amps.
Progressive told me the same thing several years ago. Contacts were "buzzing" with 20 amp breaker. Suggested tapping contacts with a screwdriver (power off); otherwise get a 30 amp breaker.

I now have to test 1 or 2 A-iPower generators (2200W/1800W) I purchased at Costco. Yamaha 79cc engines. Each gen came with a bottle of oil, funky funnel, parallel connection cables, and battery charging cables. Cost $1000 - free shipping. A single 2200 Yamaha is about $950. I also got the grounded plug and an Oklahoma credit card from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I hope it all works.