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01-23-2020, 03:23 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Bastrop, Texas
Trailer: 2022 21C 'The QShip'
Posts: 573
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New Wheels, Odd Tire Wear
Was just looking at the wheels on my 2010 17B and noticed something strange. On the right side the tire is nearly worn bald on the outside 1/4 of the tread. Why would this happen? If it was inflation it should appear on both edges. There is no caster/camber on the wheels is there? The wheel appears to be original and is showing some rust, so I am planning to replace both the running wheels. The left wheel shows only normal pattern of wear.
My trailer has the factory lift on it, and the wheels (15") do not come close to filling the wheelwell. Would going to 16 or 17 inch wheels cause any problems? Would give a little more clearance and fill the wheelwells better.
Suggestions on replacement wheels and sources?
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01-23-2020, 03:31 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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I assume you purchased used? You may want to replace all tires with new as you have no idea of the age of the tire on the unit?
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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01-23-2020, 03:41 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Bastrop, Texas
Trailer: 2022 21C 'The QShip'
Posts: 573
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I have not checked the tire codes, but will do so before I decide what to do. Do not want to make a decision until I figure out the tire wear issue. I suppose it could be due to a problem with that wheel. Will confirm all lug nuts tight and on square.
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01-23-2020, 03:53 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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Were the wheels balanced?
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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01-23-2020, 04:28 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Benton County, Iowa
Trailer: 2013 Escape 21 Classic Number 6, pulled by 2018 Toyota Highlander
Posts: 8,235
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Here’s a few things to check, wheel bearings seated with adequate nut pressure on the thrust washer. Bearings not worn to the point of being loose in the races, wheel nut adequately tight and secured. Wheel rim not bent. Wheel true top to bottom (measure across from other side top and bottom. Tire inflation proper and tire and wheel balanced. Lug nuts torqued at 95 ft lbs or so. Even loading in the trailer side to side. Axle not bent.
Iowa Dave
__________________
Ain’t no trouble jacking a double Burma Shave
Dave
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01-23-2020, 04:55 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Bastrop, Texas
Trailer: 2022 21C 'The QShip'
Posts: 573
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Using the suggestions I find the following:
1 The subject tire (wheel) was probably balanced, it does have a weight. Interesting that the left, ok, tire has no balance weights.
2. Further inspection shows that the wear pattern is not evenly bald on the right edge. Instead it is bald for 5-6 inches, then a lesser worn area. Pattern may extend all the way around the tire, cannot tell yet. Still suspicious it is a balancing problem.
3. Pulled the cap. Looks like the bearing was recently greased (as told by seller), appears washer is tight. Wheel has no play in/out when tug on top of tire.
4. All three tires are of different brands. Looks like left tire was the spare.
5. Do not know how to check for a bent axle.
In any event, now plan on replacing two tires. Just need to decide on size of replacement wheels.
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01-23-2020, 04:55 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: SLO County, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21C 2019 Expedition
Posts: 5,210
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Easiest thing to check first is whether the outer bearing is seated and the castle nut is torqued properly. If loose it well affect the camber outwards and could result in the kind of wear you have. Had that issue once when a shop was in a hurry and they did not seat the cup(race) for a new outer bearing they put in. Also did not properly tighten the castle nut and that wheel was about to come off. They bought me a new tire and I won't go back. Tried delegating; had always done it myself and now will again; it's not that bad.
If you do them every year the inner seal will pry off easily with the hook tool, vs. banging it out from inside the hub, which can be a PITA.
__________________
"We gotta get as far away as we can!"
- Russell Casse, Independence Day
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01-23-2020, 05:28 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Benton County, Iowa
Trailer: 2013 Escape 21 Classic Number 6, pulled by 2018 Toyota Highlander
Posts: 8,235
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Cupping
Quote:
Originally Posted by marant
Using the suggestions I find the following:
1 The subject tire (wheel) was probably balanced, it does have a weight. Interesting that the left, ok, tire has no balance weights.
2. Further inspection shows that the wear pattern is not evenly bald on the right edge. Instead it is bald for 5-6 inches, then a lesser worn area. Pattern may extend all the way around the tire, cannot tell yet. Still suspicious it is a balancing problem.
3. Pulled the cap. Looks like the bearing was recently greased (as told by seller), appears washer is tight. Wheel has no play in/out when tug on top of tire.
4. All three tires are of different brands. Looks like left tire was the spare.
5. Do not know how to check for a bent axle.
In any event, now plan on replacing two tires. Just need to decide on size of replacement wheels.
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Your description of tire wear is what we always called cupping. Regardless of the fact that there is weight on the tire it might still be out of balance. When you buy tires and get them balanced and pay for lifetime rotation and balance, very few people return for rebalancing. I’d have that checked but it’s best to match the tires for brand, inflation etc.
Iowa Dave
__________________
Ain’t no trouble jacking a double Burma Shave
Dave
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01-23-2020, 05:46 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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I suggest you buy 2 new wheels and tires, have them balanced and keep the old ones for spares. It seems some tires were put on wheels without rebalancing would cause cupping.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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01-23-2020, 05:51 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Bastrop, Texas
Trailer: 2022 21C 'The QShip'
Posts: 573
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CPAHarley
I agree, now just to decide if larger wheels will work.
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01-23-2020, 06:01 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: North Vancouver, British Columbia
Trailer: 2009 Escape 17B 2020 Toyota Highlander XLE
Posts: 17,136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marant
CPAHarley
I agree, now just to decide if larger wheels will work.
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For what purpose?
Standard on my 17B was 14" and option 15". I went with 15", but I'm not sure why.
__________________
What happens to the hole when the cheese is gone?
- Bertolt Brecht
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01-23-2020, 06:04 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Bastrop, Texas
Trailer: 2022 21C 'The QShip'
Posts: 573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaglo
For what purpose?
Standard on my 17B was 14" and option 15". I went with 15", but I'm not sure why.
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Just curious. More clearance, better look in the wheelwells.
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01-23-2020, 06:24 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: North Vancouver, British Columbia
Trailer: 2009 Escape 17B 2020 Toyota Highlander XLE
Posts: 17,136
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I don't think you'll gain much clearance and I think your tires will cost you more.
Another thought; you want space around the tire so you can get your arm or a tool in there to wash cattle splat off the inside of the wheel well.
__________________
What happens to the hole when the cheese is gone?
- Bertolt Brecht
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01-23-2020, 06:37 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Bastrop, Texas
Trailer: 2022 21C 'The QShip'
Posts: 573
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"wash cattle splat off the inside of the wheel well".
I love it. Recently we had a chance to go to New Zealand. The ratio of sheep to people is 100:1. They have to get them to market. All livestock trucks are required to have black tanks built in, and there are special dump stations along the highways. We never had * * on the windshield.
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01-23-2020, 06:43 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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Made the mistake of getting behind a manure spreader, had to wash both the truck and trailer that night in the cg, even though washing was prohibited. Had to get the flies off.....
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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01-23-2020, 06:45 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: North Vancouver, British Columbia
Trailer: 2009 Escape 17B 2020 Toyota Highlander XLE
Posts: 17,136
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Head to head near Merritt.
__________________
What happens to the hole when the cheese is gone?
- Bertolt Brecht
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01-23-2020, 07:17 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marant
My trailer has the factory lift on it, and the wheels (15") do not come close to filling the wheelwell. Would going to 16 or 17 inch wheels cause any problems? Would give a little more clearance and fill the wheelwells better.
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It is difficult to find 16" or 17" wheels with the bolt pattern (5-on-4.5") to fit the trailer's hubs, and in the zero (or nearly zero) offset required. The hub/drums can be changed to get a 6-on-5.5" pattern, making wheels available, but that means expense and effort; I wouldn't do that for appearance, but it's your trailer.
It looks like you would want a larger overall diameter. While you can go somewhat larger, I don't think there's as much room as you might think, especially between the two tires on the same side. The brakes would also become somewhat less effective, because the tire rolling radius increases without a proportional increase in brake drum radius; that's not likely a problem, assuming that you currently don't use the full brake system capability (i.e. the current brake controller setting is much less than 12).
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01-23-2020, 11:32 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Juneau, Alaska
Trailer: 2016 Escape 19
Posts: 555
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I agree with Iowa Dave, it likely is a balance problem or could be a belt separation problem but more than likely balance. You could check the camber by putting your trailer on flat concrete and taking a framing square and putting the short leg on the concrete and the long leg next to the tire. With the short leg pointing straight away from the tire. The long leg should have the same respected distance from the tire on both sides. Not rocket science. It whoa even to be noticeable to be a problem. Make sure wheel bearings are adjusted correctly first.
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01-24-2020, 02:00 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: ..., New Mexico
Trailer: 2013 Esc19/'14 Silvrado
Posts: 4,193
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7 years ago discovered severe cupping both tires my previous trailer after our trip west with it. It was an '86 with torsion bar suspension and them rubber bars inside the axle were totally shot. No choice but replace everything.
__________________
Myron
"A billion here, a billion there...add it all up and before you know it you're talking real money." Everett Dirkson
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01-24-2020, 02:08 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Benton County, Iowa
Trailer: 2013 Escape 21 Classic Number 6, pulled by 2018 Toyota Highlander
Posts: 8,235
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Hi Myron
I had not considered this possibility since the trailer was only 10 years old. Maybe it’s a possibility though. Perhaps the difference between an original axle suspension height and the current height of the axle could be determined and could be used to determine “wear” or “sag”.
Iowa Dave
__________________
Ain’t no trouble jacking a double Burma Shave
Dave
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