night time running lights

[Donna D.]

Red and white alternating in a line is one thing. Solid white is another. You'd think everyone could see a big white box in front of them and not tailgate, but if that was the case no trailer would ever be rear-ended. Just be safe and legal, okay?

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

Red and white alternating in a line is one thing. Solid white is another. You'd think everyone could see a big white box in front of them and not tailgate, but if that was the case no trailer would ever be rear-ended. Just be safe and legal, okay?

Good to know . Just want to hopefully get their attention !Pat

[cpaharley2008]

Maybe someone can replace the belly band insert with a reflective cover, that may stand out?

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

It's even required by FMVSS/CMVSS, in those colours, for large trucks.

Sorry, missed the more appropriate one: TRAILERS: FEDERAL LIGHTING EQUIPMENT LOCATION REQUIREMENTS
This one, specifically for trailers, notes that

Rear lower body and side conspicuity treatment may also be solid white, solid yellow, or white and yellow.

I agree that the alternating red and white is more appropriate and less confusing than solid white would be. All-white retroreflective markings would be better for the side of the vehicle than the rear.

The black reflective tape - an idea which I like - doesn't really reflect just white. It is retroreflective, meaning that it bounces back any light in the direction from which it came. That means that it looks white in your headlights, but if you shine a different colour of light at it, you'll see that colour. This material (the retroreflective film, not specifically the black base) is often used in patterns on emergency vehicles to make them more visible at night - it's especially useful with the dark grey schemes used by some police departments. The stock graphics of an Escape - in the owner's choice of daytime colour - could be made retroreflective this way.

Just for fun, extreme Escape enthusiasts might want to get the Escape name on custom logo tape. I've seen this on a few commercial trailers recently, and it's a nice touch.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Maybe someone can replace the belly band insert with a reflective cover, that may stand out?

I also looked into the belly band reflection . Little house customs sells , they told me it wouldn't work for our trailers , so I dropped it . Pat

[float5]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

I also looked into the belly band reflection . Little house customs sells , they told me it wouldn't work for our trailers , so I dropped it . Pat

You mean that it only is for Casitas?

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by float5

You mean that it only is for Casitas?

That's what they told me Cathy . I think because it is a aluminum belly band ? No vinyl ? Pat

[Brian B-P]

An original-style Casita (13' or 16') is clone of a Scamp, and a Scamp (13') is a clone of a Boler 1300. The other sizes of Casita and Scamp have size and shape variations, but are constructed the same way... including the belly seam.

The Boler/Scamp/Casita seam is very differently constructed from a Trillium or Escape, and so it uses a very different trim. The Escape trim is a flat alumium channel which is attached by horizontal screws or rivets through the middle and accepts a flexible cover strip over the fasteners, but the Boler/Scamp/Casita trim is a U-shaped aluminum piece covering a protruding edge and attached to the protruding seam with vertical fasteners. The normal Casita trim has no flexible part, but there is a white and chrome alternative or cover; neither would fit an Escape at all.

[War Eagle]

When working on our build sheet, I contacted Avery to see if our Silver graphics could be made in a reflective silver, not brilliant, but more of a dull reflective silver like incorporated into some running shoes. I never heard back from them....

[ReagentGrade]

Dale,
I didn't contact Avery but I found an expanded list of vinyls. They have reflective films, probably intended primarily for signs. I choose a reflective blue film and asked iffy ETI would install that. They would, for a $250 up charge. So, reflective graphics is available, but you have to pay. I think the extra charge is due to 1) the graphics supplier has to special order it and 2) it probably costs more than the usual stuff.
I also noticed that the usual vinyls are rated for six years, while the reflective films are rated for seven years.
Rich

[bolerfan]

while on this post re: visibility....ever check how visible your rear taillights are when you have bikes mounted? We learnt that by putting a bike cover over the bikes our rear taillights were no longer visible on our 17B. A trip to ETI put 2 new brake, turn, running lights over the rear window which our 2013 model did not have. . Very nice installation and certainly makes me feel a lot better.

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

Just for fun, extreme Escape enthusiasts might want to get the Escape name on custom logo tape. I've seen this on a few commercial trailers recently, and it's a nice touch.

They'd have to be really extreme Escape enthusiasts Brian. There appears to be a 50 roll minumum order. Lotta tape.

[War Eagle]

Originally Posted by ReagentGrade

Dale, I didn't contact Avery but I found an expanded list of vinyls. They have reflective films, ...

Thanks, Rich. I didn't find those in my quick search, but it's a moot point now for us. We love our "plain" silver graphics. Maybe others will see your post and be tempted as they work on their build sheet. Thanks again....

[hughharden]

Originally Posted by escape artist

Hi: hughharden... If your hooked to shore power just push a 15 Amp blade fuse into the top two 7 pin slots. The ones on either side of the key slot in the plug. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

I put the jumper wire into the top two slots and the trailer lights went on. So I assume the trailer is OK. Looked at the connectors and cleaned them up and bent back into shape for good contact. Checked all the fuses in the truck. Still no luck. Will need to get a circuit tester and see if the truck side is live when I turn on the lights. Or just drive in daytime.

[War Eagle]

Hugh, You can purchase a circuit tester to plug into your tow vehicle's 7-pin receptacle to check things out. One example is:
https://www.amazon.com/58270-7-Way-B.../dp/B001EOWQY4
If you find the problem is with the tow vehicle wiring, I'd suggest you take it to a professional - some place where they specialize in trailer wiring.

[gbaglo]

I have that 7-pin tester and a 4-pin tester.
I have learned that there is an issue between the 4-pin and 7-pin wiring.
Tomorrow I take it in to Burnaby Hitch for them to actually find the problem and remedy it.
Have had intermittent failure of left turn and left brake for a couple years now, and I just want it fixed.

[War Eagle]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

... Have had intermittent failure of left turn and left brake for a couple years now, and I just want it fixed.

Glenn, I told this story in a previous thread, but I once had a faulty receptacle that gave me a similar problem. Turned out the plastic housing of the receptacle that is supposed to hold all the electrical contacts in the correct position was cracked in such a way that one contact could deflect and sometimes not insert along with the others. The trailer shop wiring guy who discovered the problem said he could stick his finger up in the receptacle (tow vehicle ignition key turned OFF) and physically wiggle that one electrical contact around, and that shouldn't happen. He simply replace the 7-pin receptacle, problem solved. I hope your problem is no more complicated than something simple like that.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

I have that 7-pin tester and a 4-pin tester.
I have learned that there is an issue between the 4-pin and 7-pin wiring.
Tomorrow I take it in to Burnaby Hitch for them to actually find the problem and remedy it.
Have had intermittent failure of left turn and left brake for a couple years now, and I just want it fixed.

The fix which is most likely to be reliable is to get rid of all of the 4-pin connectors, making permanent wire splices for those connections as required instead. Since the ground (white wire) of the 4-pin connection is not used anyway, it will only be three wires; if the problem really is an intermittent connection, it should take much less time to fix it properly and permanently than to troubleshoot it.

[gbaglo]

Thanks Brian. Heading to the shop in 20 minutes or so.

[War Eagle]

Originally Posted by KirkB

Read this thread... if you connect pins 3&4 you can test your running lights.
http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f9...tug-10518.html

Kirk, Thanks for reminding me of that other thread. Simply using a 15 amp blade fuse to jump the 3&4 pins is clever, easy and works! Sorry the clearance light is out of focus, but it is definitely powered on from the jumper fuse! Not sure I'll ever need the flasher, but that would be fun to try, too!