No Battery Power

cl3 · 09-27-2021, 09:59 AM

Camper has been parked for a few months and I'm getting ready for a trip. Had it plugged in for a few days to charge, but I'm not getting power from the batteries. Disconnect is in "On" position. Everything works when connected to shore power. I can hear the convertor/charger fan kick on for just a second when I first plug in, but it doesn't stay on. So either batteries are full or there's a problem. When plugged in battery monitor shows batteries are full, when not plugged in no lights on monitor for anything; batteries or tanks, and nothing in the trailer works. Occasionally I get an "E9" code on the power management system, but it usually goes away when I turn it off and back on. Thoughts?

cpaharley2008 · 09-27-2021, 10:04 AM

Try the disconnect switch again, it may need to be "off"

cl3 · 09-27-2021, 10:18 AM

Have tried it in both positions. Also batteries show as 12.2V on multimeter. I have 2 6V AGM deep cell batteries so that means they are charged, correct?

RangerMan · 09-27-2021, 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cl3

Have tried it in both positions. Also batteries show as 12.2V on multimeter. I have 2 6V AGM deep cell batteries so that means they are charged, correct?

My 2 6V AGM Trojans show almost 14V (at times a bit over 14V) when fully charged. I can't remember much about batteries lows and highs but 12.2V seems a bit low. I would think lights would still work tho.

Oldtimer · 09-27-2021, 10:35 AM

One might check n see if your gfic receptacle is tripped. Just a thought. I know has nothing to do with batteries.

David

cpaharley2008 · 09-27-2021, 10:38 AM

Here is sample chart

alanmalk · 09-27-2021, 10:40 AM

Check that the fuses in the battery line are ok, using your multi-meter to check for 12.2V on each side of the fuse & thermal breaker.

RangerMan · 09-27-2021, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oldtimer

One might check n see if your gfic receptacle is tripped. Just a thought. I know has nothing to do with batteries.

David

OP says that everything works when on shore power. If the GFIC were tripped. would shore power work? I'm 'assuming' 'Everything' includes the A/c receptacles.

cl3 · 09-27-2021, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alanmalk

Check that the fuses in the battery line are ok, using your multi-meter to check for 12.2V on each side of the fuse & thermal breaker.

Is his separate from the panel fuses? I can't find a separate inline fuse.

RangerMan · 09-27-2021, 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cl3

Is his separate from the panel fuses? I can't find a separate inline fuse.

Look close to the battery

cl3 · 09-27-2021, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RangerMan

OP says that everything works when on shore power. If the GFIC were tripped. would shore power work? I'm 'assuming' 'Everything' includes the A/c receptacles.

Yes, everything works, including outlets.

cl3 · 09-27-2021, 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RangerMan

Look close to the battery

Bingo! That was it. Inline 50 amp fuse holder at battery is melted. Any idea where I can get another one? Looks like an easy cut out and replace.

oldwave · 09-27-2021, 11:32 AM

I would replace that with an anl fuse holder and fuse. However the root cause of that failure needs to be identified.

Vermilye · 09-27-2021, 11:34 AM

You need to check the path between the batteries & the converter. 12.2V is not a fully charged battery, despite what the LED indicator says. If it goes out when the trailer is unplugged, the LED indicator is showing the converter voltage, not the battery voltage. The fact that everything is dead when you unplug from 120V indicates that there is no connection between the batteries & the converter distribution panel. That would also explain why, after a couple of days the battery has not charged.

Depending on how your trailer was wired, there might be a fuse in the battery box, a 30 amp thermal circuit breaker in line, and the disconnect switch. The disconnect switches often fail.

You can check the breaker & switch using a #10 jumper wire to short across the terminals. If things come on when you short across the device, it needs to be replaced.

One non electrical thing to check - the water/acid level in the batteries. If it is below the plates in the batteries, that would be a problem.

On Edit - Glad you found the problem!

RangerMan · 09-27-2021, 11:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cl3

Bingo! That was it. Inline 50 amp fuse holder at battery is melted. Any idea where I can get another one? Looks like an easy cut out and replace.

I go to 'AutoZone ' for fuses. They got just about everything you would way. I would guess other Auto stores to do.

Edit: The fuses are generally available at autos stores but the holders. Check online for fuse holders.

cl3 · 09-27-2021, 11:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cl3

Bingo! That was it. Inline 50 amp fuse holder at battery is melted. Any idea where I can get another one? Looks like an easy cut out and replace.

Found it on Amazon. Easy peasy. Thanks for the help!

Ron in BC · 09-27-2021, 11:38 AM

Good that you tracked down the problem.

Before you just pop in a new fuse is there anything that you did or used the last time that you used the trailer that may have caused the fuse to blow?

Fuses can and do blow sometimes and just replacing them ends the problem. But sometimes there's an underlying problem and there's always the possibility that popping in a new fuse will cause it to blow. Hopefully not, but if it does do some trouble shooting before replacing it.

Ron

cl3 · 09-27-2021, 11:40 AM

Now the question is, what caused the fuse holder to melt? When I connect it to the battery and wiggle the holder the connection is restored, which makes me think the fuse didn't blow and the fuse box itself is bad. Or did something else cause it to melt? Your thoughts would be appreciated.

RangerMan · 09-27-2021, 11:46 AM

When running the fridge on D/C not to long ago the 30A fuse literally melted! I replaced it and prepared to look for causes on repeat failure. Didn't happen again and still hasn't. Weird! Not just a blown fuse but big time MELT.

A puzzlement but I ain't losing any sleep o0ver it.

rubicon327 · 09-27-2021, 11:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cl3

Now the question is, what caused the fuse holder to melt? When I connect it to the battery and wiggle the holder the connection is restored, which makes me think the fuse didn't blow and the fuse box itself is bad. Or did something else cause it to melt? Your thoughts would be appreciated.

Glad you are trying to get to the root cause. I wonder if it is possible that the fuse holder was faulty and you were getting arcing within.

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