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07-28-2020, 03:27 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: None, sold my 2014 5.0TA
Posts: 7,124
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Thanks, do I need to waterproof it or is the heat shrink good enough?
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Happy Motoring
Bob
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07-28-2020, 03:30 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota
Trailer: 2019 5.0 TA
Posts: 864
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The Sweet Suite
Ronn and Colleen
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07-28-2020, 04:28 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: North of Danbury, Wisconsin
Trailer: 2018 Escape 21C
Posts: 3,033
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin
Thanks, do I need to waterproof it or is the heat shrink good enough?
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They make a shrink tube where the inside is coated with a melt able sealer
When you heat the tube to shrink it the sealant melts and makes it watertight
If I can’t find shrink tube with silicone sealant , I have used crimp sleeves filled with Pentrox electrical grease .
Crimp the sleeve with a T&B indenter crimper , tape over the crimp sleeve with 3M - 130C high voltage tape ( 1/2 lapped and stretched to the 50% requirement)
Put shrink tube in place over splice / tape and heat .
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07-28-2020, 10:04 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: SLO County, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21C 2019 Expedition
Posts: 5,213
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After almost six years with lots of miles on mountains I replaced all four brakes with new backing plates which required cutting and reconnecting the wires. Fortunately all this time the brakes always worked as they should. I even slowed with only trailer brakes on some of the steepest westbound descent of Sonora Pass last month to help save TV brakes. Won't go Westbound with trailer on that pass again! After research and speaking with several mechanics I used heat shrink butt connectors. Seems solder can break in vibration environments.
Thanks for heads-up Jim- will be crawling soon to double check frame connections.
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"We gotta get as far away as we can!"
- Russell Casse, Independence Day
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07-28-2020, 10:21 PM
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#25
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Site Team
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Mid Left Coast, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21
Posts: 5,152
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if you're gonna crimp, use THESE crimp splices, you can get them at a boating place like West Marine.
https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-So.../dp/B01DPS3ZBE
the plastic insulation on these is heatshrink that seals water tight around suitable insulation. properly crimped and heat shrunk, they are quite good.
I used to solder, paint with 'liquid electrical tape, then heatshrink my boat trailer wiring, which had to be submersible in salt water, and found these crimps work *better* because most heat shrink isn't meant for weather-exposed application, and a year or so of UV exposure, even indirect, and it flakes off.
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07-29-2020, 12:30 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Juneau, Alaska
Trailer: 2016 Escape 19
Posts: 555
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz
if you're gonna crimp, use THESE crimp splices, you can get them at a boating place like West Marine.
https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-So.../dp/B01DPS3ZBE
the plastic insulation on these is heatshrink that seals water tight around suitable insulation. properly crimped and heat shrunk, they are quite good.
I used to solder, paint with 'liquid electrical tape, then heatshrink my boat trailer wiring, which had to be submersible in salt water, and found these crimps work *better* because most heat shrink isn't meant for weather-exposed application, and a year or so of UV exposure, even indirect, and it flakes off.
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John you’re absolutely correct. Crimp connectors with the glue that oozes out when heated with a heat gun are the best way to connect wires especially for amateurs. They work great in tight spaces if you’re heat gun has a curved deflector. I was a mechanic in Alaska for 38 years where salt is used on the roads and these connectors can be used even under a vehicle if you ever try to pull one apart or cut one off with a knife you will see how durable they are. I hope to go through my trailer someday and replace as many of Escape’s cheap crimp and scotch-lock connecters as possible. Unfortunately my trailer is in Bellingham and I’m in Alaska.
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08-05-2020, 02:42 PM
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#27
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Middletown, Ohio
Trailer: 2020 escape 19
Posts: 7
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That is how they taught us to make a solder joint at ITT. Remember that you need to slip your heat shrink on before you make your solder joint. Both ends of the wire in the example were not connected to anything so he could slide the heat shrink on, you will be under the trailer and one end will be connected to the brake and one end will be connected to the pin connector so you can't slide the heat shrink in place and will end up taping the joint.
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08-05-2020, 03:32 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,798
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dfandrews
For reference: On our E17 (single axle), constructed in Aug. & Sept. 2015, we have crimped conductor connections, covered by split corrugated loom polyethylene. The only ground connection was a screw to the frame on the left side. All connections are currently tight and functional @ 4 yrs 11 months.
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Win some, lose some. This was mine at less than a year old.
All ended up soldered and heat shrunk. No worries, I do know how to solder.
Ron
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08-06-2020, 08:53 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Kent, Washington
Trailer: 2009 Trillium 1300
Posts: 131
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Place the heat shrink tubing on one of the wires before joining if the far ends are attached to something.
When I drove with a stick shift, I would watch for a stop with a small downhill. Now with the automatic tranny, I just let the idle movement move the rig slightly then manually engage the electric trailer brakes seeing if they can stop the movement.
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