Part number for 2009 Escape 17, electric brakes magnet or brake plate assembly

[dykstra99664@hotmail.com]

Thanks for all the useful information

[Iowa Dave]

Originally Posted by dykstra99664@hotmail.com

Thanks for all the useful information.

A day before you are ready to do the job I would suggest you slide under your trailer, you shouldn’t have to even jack it up) and with the directional “straw” on a can of penetrating fluid like liquid wrench, give each of the four nuts in the backside of the assemblies a shot of fluid. In 24 hours that fluid will walk down those threads and make the nuts a breeze to remove. I use an 11/16 offset box end wrench. You get new nuts with the new assemblies so you don’t have to worry about residue fluid on the old nuts. Take your time and it still won’t take all that long. Best of luck always,
Iowa Dave

[NEWYORKHILLBILLY]

wish I found this thread before you ordered. I have these sitting in basement from my old casita. does any one know if these will fit on my new 2020 escape 19? do the duel axle trailers have breaks on all 4 wheels ?

[Iowa Dave]

See my post number 2 and 3 in this thread. If you want brake sets that are not self adjusting and do not have a parking brake feature you have the same ones as I bought for the 2013 21. They will fit all the Dexter axles on the conventional Escape trailers from the 17s on up. Of course you’ll need one more set of each. A left and a right. Brakes on all four wheels are standard on the Escapes..
Iowa Dave

[NEWYORKHILLBILLY]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

See my post number 2 and 3 in this thread. If you want brake sets that are not self adjusting and do not have a parking brake feature you have the same ones as I bought for the 2013 21. They will fit all the Dexter axles on the conventional Escape trailers from the 17s on up. Of course you’ll need one more set of each. A left and a right. Brakes on all four wheels are standard on the Escapes..
Iowa Dave

Do the new trailers come with self adjusting brakes? I also found 4 set of shoes K71-047-00 10x2-1/4" . Not sure where i got all this stuff must have come with one of the used casitas i have owned

[Iowa Dave]

Can’t tell you on the shoes.
Size is right but I’ve not bought shoes only. I looked into it for the 19 and the price of the shoes plus the cost of a magnet started to approach the cost of the whole kit and I wanted all new. Don’t know about the brand new Escapes, I’ve not followed the market. We’re so happy with the genuine Classic 2013 21 that I don’t look to buy anything else. It’s perfect for us.

Never hurts to have parts around is my theory. Say an axle seal goes to hell and you soak one set of shoes with grease. Clean things up, throw away the old shoes and install and adjust new ones get a new three dollar seal and service the bearings and you should be good to go without major cash outlay.

I always dreamed that this would be my portal to becoming a millionaire but it hasn’t quite worked out that way. But if you need a new Delco- Remy generator for a 1952 Dodge, I’ve got one. Or a couple frost plugs for a 38 Buick, or a set of four pistons .060 over for a Model A (in the boxes) I got em.
Iowa “ Not a hoarder, just a boy with an inventory control problem”. Dave

[dykstra99664@hotmail.com]

From everything I have read and heard, the brakes and drums a pretty universal. Etrailer online is also a good source of information. Iowadave has posted some excellent pictures and descriptions of his work.

[dykstra99664@hotmail.com]

Thanks for that tip. I would not of thought of that until it was to late!

[dfandrews]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

.......
I always dreamed that this would be my portal to becoming a millionaire but it hasn’t quite worked out that way. ..........a couple frost plugs for a 38 Buick..............Dave

NOW you tell me!!. Helped a friend restore a 37 Buick. He drove by a couple weeks ago to show it off (and to just Get out of the house!):

[Iowa Dave]

They are in a blue box with the Buick emblems on it, I haven’t seen them for a while but I know what building they are in. We had a Buick and my best friend’s Dad had owned one after the War. One day I was at their place and the old man picked the box off a shelf and gave it to me. He said “ maybe these will fit your Dad’s Buick. I don’t have any use for them.” He did that all the time as he got older. Giving me some of his stuff. I missed about 12 years of his life while I was in college and working on the other side of the state. We had hunted and fished together a lot when I was in my teens. When I moved back and stopped by his place to see if he wanted to go hunting, he told me he couldn’t walk a block anymore. It bummed me out. From then on I took him and his wife wild game and fish. He was a butcher at the packing house. At the auction after he passed away I bought a nice Cleaver and a Beef Heading knife. both Foster Brothers brand that had been his for many years. He had come to the United States from Bohemia when he was 5. He was a good guy. Joseph Metelak. His son lives in Ventura county with you. In Santa Paula or something like that. I am in regular contact with him still. That’s a nice looking restoration. Love the lines on that car. When better automobiles are built, Buick will build them.
Iowa Dave

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by NEWYORKHILLBILLY

Do the new trailers come with self adjusting brakes? I also found 4 set of shoes K71-047-00 10x2-1/4" . Not sure where i got all this stuff must have come with one of the used casitas i have owned

I don’t believe Escape uses the Nev-R-Adjust. Best to ask them as things change. We replaced with Nev-R-Adjust when we recently replaced the assemblies in their entirety. Those K71-047 shoes you mention will fit the Torflex #10 axles used on all Escapes both older and current. They are not side specific.

[NEWYORKHILLBILLY]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

I don’t believe Escape uses the Nev-R-Adjust. Best to ask them as things change. We replaced with Nev-R-Adjust when we recently replaced the assemblies in their entirety. Those K71-047 shoes you mention will fit the Torflex #10 axles used on all Escapes both older and current. They are not side specific.

thanks thats good info, now i have extra parts for trailer when I do get it.

[dykstra99664@hotmail.com]

Thanks for all the information. The job went smooth without any problems. The 11/32" box end wrench was a excellent tip.
I got the project done and tested the brakes. They will not "lock up " no matter what I set the brake controller at. I also tried to energize the trailer break away switch to check for maximum voltage. I can tell the magnets are energizing but it still does'nt feel like maximum stopping power. If I remember correctly, when I first purchased the trailer I think I could apply the brakes with the voltage turned up and I could actually feel the trailer brakes engaging trying to stop the trailer and the T.V. Not so much now. What is normal operation typically? Any idea's why I don't feel maximum stopping power now? Thanks in advance.

[Doug2000]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

From what I've read here over the years, you just buy the whole assembly. Cheaper than buying parts.

For my 2007 17B, I just bought the whole assembly, included brakes, drums and pre greased bearings.

[Iowa Dave]

Originally Posted by dykstra99664@hotmail.com

Thanks for all the information. The job went smooth without any problems. The 11/32" box end wrench was a excellent tip.
I got the project done and tested the brakes. They will not "lock up " no matter what I set the brake controller at. I also tried to energize the trailer break away switch to check for maximum voltage. I can tell the magnets are energizing but it still does'nt feel like maximum stopping power. If I remember correctly, when I first purchased the trailer I think I could apply the brakes with the voltage turned up and I could actually feel the trailer brakes engaging trying to stop the trailer and the T.V. Not so much now. What is normal operation typically? Any idea's why I don't feel maximum stopping power now? Thanks in advance.

Did you go for a test drive and “run the brakes in”. And once that’s done you can check the adjustment to just below contact again. Once readjusted I’d find a gravel parking lot or gravel road, make sure the controller is set for your trailer. Turn the setting up and see if you can then lock them up. Did your splices from the trailer to the brake kit go smoothly and do you feel the voltage coming off the tow vehicle is adequate’? Just guessing here. If you’re rolling. About 10 miles and hour on paving and use the manual override, the trailer brakes should jerk you to a stop with the manual switch activated and not touching the tow vehicle brakes. You cannot hardly spin the tire fast enough by hand to have the brakes work right because the “speed” is so slow that the voltage backs down so fast. Hope this helps. Others will probably give their opinion and a solution. You’ll get it.
Iowa Dave

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by dykstra99664@hotmail.com

I got the project done and tested the brakes. They will not "lock up " no matter what I set the brake controller at. I also tried to energize the trailer break away switch to check for maximum voltage. I can tell the magnets are energizing but it still does'nt feel like maximum stopping power. If I remember correctly, when I first purchased the trailer I think I could apply the brakes with the voltage turned up and I could actually feel the trailer brakes engaging trying to stop the trailer and the T.V. Not so much now. What is normal operation typically? Any idea's why I don't feel maximum stopping power now? Thanks in advance.

My guess is either under-adjustment as Dave has suggested or a high resistance connection or other problem in the main wiring that is not allowing full voltage to the brakes. Try to adjust them closer, burnish them in as described in the service manual (20-30 stops from 40 mph to 20 mph with time to cool in between) and go from there. See pages 11 & 12. There is also a good troubleshooting section starting on page 17. You can try to measure voltage at each brake with the brake controller manual lever activated fully or the breakaway switch pulled and you should see +/- 12V. It is a good reminder to make sure the 7 pin umbilical is disconnected when pulling the breakaway switch so you don't damage the brake controller.

https://www.dexteraxle.com/docs/default-source/dexteraxle/product-documentation/manuals/600-8k_complete_service_manual.pdf?sfvrsn=cfe1e328_42

[Iowa Dave]

When I changed brake sets on the 19, on the first set I replaced I purposely cut the old wiring pigtails close to the backing plate so I would have plenty of wire to hook up the new ones. I made the connection with a standard butt connector. On the next set I happened to peel the split protective cover back about a foot and it exposed the two factory butt connectors. I tugged on one of the two wires and it was corroded and pulled off of the butt connector. With my lightening fast mind. I knew what I had to do. Put down my tools, got in the Highlander and went to my dealer and got 8 new shrink connectors. Back home I proceeded and made splices on each wire, soldered the wires then slid the connector in place and shrunk the connector, once pinched down.
Thought this might be of interest to you
Iowa Dave

[Iowa Dave]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

When I changed brake sets on the 19, on the first set I replaced I purposely cut the old wiring pigtails close to the backing plate so I would have plenty of wire to hook up the new ones. I made the connection with a standard butt connector. On the next set I happened to peel the split protective cover back about a foot and it exposed the two factory butt connectors. I tugged on one of the two wires and it was corroded and pulled off of the butt connector. With my lightening fast mind. I knew what I had to do. Put down my tools, got in the Highlander and went to my dealer and got 8 new shrink connectors. Back home I proceeded and made splices on each wire, soldered the wires then slid the connector in place and shrunk the connector, once pinched down.
Thought this might be of interest to you.

The connections need to be firm, well protected and as waterproof as possible. And the law of wring that my Brother in Law gave me that I never ignore “Those grounds will mess you up.”
Iowa Dave

[dykstra99664@hotmail.com]

Thanks for the reply,I redid all the electrical connections to the brakes. Redid all ground connections and power connections. Good voltage at the brakes. Still not able to lock brakes either by hard braking or pulling the emergency stop pin. I will need to burnish the brakes on next opportunity. Thinking maybe resurface the magnet armatures however they did not appear to have much wear.

[dykstra99664@hotmail.com]

I redid all the electrical connections to the brakes. Made sure I had solid grounding system connections. good voltage to the brakes. Still can't get brake lock up either by hard braking or pulling the emergency brake break away pin Others indicated I need to burnish the brakes so I will try that next. Might just run it as is for a while , see what happens Thinking maybe need to turn the magnet armature but they did not look at all worn.