Part number for 2009 Escape 17, electric brakes magnet or brake plate assembly

[dykstra99664@hotmail.com]

I am looking for information on electric brake parts numbers for a 2009 Escape 17B.
What is the weight capacity of the axels used?
What is the drum diameter and brake show width used for our trailers?
Does anybody know the Dexter part number for the electro magnet and/or brake plate assembly?
Where would I find a label or part number on the axel assembly?
Would Escape industries have this information based on VIN number?

Thanks for any information, I don't want to order the wrong parts.
Robin D.

[Iowa Dave]

We have a Dexter dealer near our Home. They are called Midwest wheel. I have done business with them for 35 years. I used them as a supplier when I put brakes on our 2010 19.
The way to go for me was to buy the complete assembly. That’s the electric pigtail to the magnet, the magnet, the backing (mounting) plate, the shoes, the actuator arms, the nuts that hold them to the axle (4) (use 11/16 wrench). You will need one right side (as you stand behind the trailer). And one left side. New bearing seals might be necessary. Get 4 shrink connectors for the wires (2 per) I would and did solder the connections and then close the connectors on the wires and then shrink the connector plastic. It does not matter which wire goes to which wire. Brakes worked great. Then I sold the trailer. Insert laugh track here. we bought our 21, brakes were in fine shape. By the end of last season brakes were getting down. Back out to Midwest Wheel. Four new sets. Same axle, same diameters, same shoe width, I will walk down to the Escape Garage presently and take some pictures for you. It’s not a bad job. Make sure you use jack stands, good ones.
Iowa “he’s actually done the job” Dave

[Iowa Dave]

Ok here’s a few pics. Had to fix my post misread your trailer number so one set per side but still the same brake set.
You get dust covers for adjusters and 4 New nuts with the kit but not wire connectors. Sorry I didn’t show the receipt but they cost me about $35 a set. They are not self adjusting because I’m like that robber in the opening scene of “Dirty Harry”. When it comes to brakes “I gots to know man, I gots to
know.”
Iowa Dave

[Iowa Dave]

Seals and connectors and genuine Dexter grease, instruction sheet ( not needed by real
men).
Missing from all of this is one very important thing
Energy
Hope this helps, Seal number is on the rim of the seal.
Iowa Dave

[dykstra99664@hotmail.com]

Thanks Iowa,
It sounds and looks simple. I am tending to do the work myself as I have difficulty finding anyone who really knows how and cares to do the job properly ( just as you describe).
My issue at this time is finding out the correct part numbers.Do you have any wisdom you can share in regard to the parts used by ETI. I have reached out to ETI but have not yet recieved a response. I do need to move forward.

[dykstra99664@hotmail.com]

Ok i scrolled down and found the rest of your post. I think I can get good information from the pics.

[gbaglo]

From what I've read here over the years, you just buy the whole assembly. Cheaper than buying parts.

[Iowa Dave]

I did not look for any marks on the brake sets when I pulled them off of the 19. I just talked to the counter man at Midwest
Wheel and he assured me the 10x 21/4 were the right ones.
The axles on the Escape use the 10 inch drums and are Dexter Axles. So the brakes are 10 inch model as opposed to 7 or 12 inch. And the brake shoe is 2 1/4 inches wide. Four bolts to get at. An 11/16 combination offset wrench works best. Of course that did not keep this old lying Coon dog from telling Mama I needed a new Milwaukee 18 V Impact wrench to do the job. The wires, the four nuts, adjust the shoes out till tight to the drums and back off till they just barely make a little ring (Ching Ching Ching) and spin freely. Then plug in and take a little test ride to “burn them in” according to the destructions. Then turn the gain up on your controller and if possible have someone watch when you lock them up on gravel and see if they all skid the same. Check the adjustment again and you’re ready to go. The reason I said something about the seals is that when you pull the drums you won’t hurt the seals but If they have been leaking you’ll see the grease on the brake assy. Plate and or the actuator lever between the magnet and the shoes. Then you know you’ll need a seal.
Take your time and in the immortal words of my Dad, “only do one side at a time” that way If you loose your place you can look at the other side” (in reverse)
Best of luck always
Iowa Dave

[dykstra99664@hotmail.com]

Good information, love the sound effects. ETI got back to me but did not know if I had 300lb axels or 3500LBs? Only difference I can see is shoe width. Guess I need to pull the wheel again and measure mine. The numbers on the boxs in the pics don't match to any thing I have crossed on any site. Dexter or etrailer so I'm not 100% certain yet . Tomorrow I need to pull wheel and hopefully find some sort of indication of weight size or part number. Thanks for all the good information Dave.

[Iowa Dave]

Well sorry, that’s the best I can do. Does E Trailer have Dexter parts? The old 17s
Had 14 inch wheels and so did the 19’s. I’m reasonably sure the shoes were all called ten inch by 2 1/4. Wide.
Iowa Dave

[dykstra99664@hotmail.com]

Yes , Etrailer has Dexter. Thanks for the reply's Good Night.

[cpaharley2008]

I remember doing my first brake job, on my 1966 Mustang. I remembered to do one side first and after doing the driver side front and rear drums, and standing back to look at my completed project, beaming with pride. I then decided to test them to insure they worked, my fatal mistake. I stepped on the brake and sure enough they worked, they worked so well that the brake cylinders blew out the seals and brake fluid all over everything. I neglected to reinstall the drums before testing....eek. I quickly put everything back together before someone else could see my stupidity. I drove the car only with one side working to local Midas shop. Picked it up the next day, lesson learned, never count your chickens before they hatch.

[dykstra99664@hotmail.com]

Funny, I can relate. Reminds me of my saying I tell craftsmen when I hire work out." Do it right, if I want it all f*#*# up I'd do it myself".

[Iowa Dave]

Anecdote alert:
We’d do brake jobs where we worked, my Dad and I. The car was on the hoist for ease of access. When done Dad would lower the car and I’d get in and he would lift me up so he could easily hook up the bleeder tank. He’d tell me to slowly push the brake pedal down. One by one he would get the air bled out, the brakes adjusted and inspect the hoses and the steel lines. Then he would let me down. He would always ask if I enjoyed being on the hoist. I’d tell him it was fun or good or something positive. He would say “Good, because it’s as close to Heaven as you’ll ever get.
60 years and it seems like yesterday.
Iowa Dave

[Buddy]

Great story, it is the little things that we miss.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by dykstra99664@hotmail.com

I am looking for information on electric brake parts numbers for a 2009 Escape 17B.
What is the weight capacity of the axels used?

Robin: Do you have a silver placard on the outside of the trailer with that shows the GAWR? It will likely be in kg but can be easily converted to lbs. For the 17 I believe they always used a 3500# axle. In fact gbaglo that also has a 2008 or 2009 just shared his placard the other day and it is in fact a 3500#. Seen here:
https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...tml#post332369

In reality I don't think the load rating matters because it would still be a Dexter Torflex #10 axle. The #10 can be rated from 2200 to 3500# depending on the amount of rubber. In which case the parts that Iowa Dave listed will put you on the right track.

This should be what you have now:
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...xle/23-27.html
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...xle/23-26.html

I edited the above as I had originally listed these non-Dexter equivalents by Axle-Tek:
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...KEBRK-35R.html
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...KEBRK-35L.html

If you want to upgrade to Nev-R-Adjust you need these:
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...le/23-469.html
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...le/23-468.html

Plus you'll need a set of seals (FYI these are not Dexter - some like to use all genuine parts):
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Bea.../RG06-050.html

[rubicon327]

If you are actually just looking for a magnet then this should be what you need:
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories.../BP01-110.html

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by dykstra99664@hotmail.com

ETI got back to me but did not know if I had 300lb axels or 3500LBs? Only difference I can see is shoe width. Guess I need to pull the wheel again and measure mine.

They are Torflex #10, which use the same hub and brake components as other Dexter 3500 pound axle assemblies (including the D35 leaf-spring axle). Some Escapes have axle assemblies derated to a lower capacity, such as 3000 pounds, but as Dave explained that does not change the hub or brake hardware (only the length of rubber rods used as bushings and springs).

This means that you should have the 10"x2¼" brakes used with the Torflex #10 and the D35 (3500 pound capacity), not the 10"x1½" brakes used with the Torflex #10L and the D30 (3000 pound capacity). See page 25 of the Dexter Axle Light Duty 2,300-4,000 Capacity catalog for the hub, and pages 30-32 for the three versions of the brake components (regular, with parking brake, and Nev-R-Adjust)

[dykstra99664@hotmail.com]

Thanks, I was actually able to buy the entire assembly for $100. with free freight from etrailer. Hopefully it will be an easy change out. RD

[dykstra99664@hotmail.com]

Thanks for all the useful information.