Poor ride

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Mike G

In practical terms, it may cost the same or less to replace a worn-out torsion axle with a spring axle plus shocks.

Perhaps, but if shopping for a leaf-spring axle for a trailer by price, the result will be junk, not an improvement. The next posted topic could be "Why is my new axle not better than the old one?", perhaps accompanied by "Why is my trailer so ridiculously tall with the new axle?".

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by edlynnrich

Escape recommends 50 psi for the 21c. I did a little google searching and found some recommendations for a 20% pressure reduction for gravel roads. So I’m thinking carrying 40 psi for roads such as the Dempster in the Yukon. Anyone have any thoughts on that?

I'm thinking that it would make sense to look up the minimum pressure for the load, add a margin for error, and use that... rather than an arbitrary reduction from an arbitrarily assigned pressure.

[edlynnrich]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

I'm thinking that it would make sense to look up the minimum pressure for the load, add a margin for error, and use that... rather than an arbitrary reduction from an arbitrarily assigned pressure.

Yes, thanks. I’m still trying to puzzle out minimum pressures.

[Locker]

Wow....thanks everyone for your thoughts and comments. Yes, as a 4 wheeler I know about tire pressures...done. If I used an equalizer hitch with this truck and that trailer frame the trailer would more than likely break. Yes this is an older trailer..../06 so maybe the axle is done. Will have to do some more research and test/check the axle closer. It is already lifted 3" and yes I would love to get some bigger tires in there. Thanks again

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by Locker

If I used an equalizer hitch with this truck and that trailer frame the trailer would more than likely break.

Not if the hitch is properly installed and adjusted.

[Locker]

That little 3" frame will NOT hold that 6000lbs+ blazer on big dips....

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Locker

If I used an equalizer hitch with this truck and that trailer frame the trailer would more than likely break.

... in off-road conditions.

Originally Posted by gbaglo

Not if the hitch is properly installed and adjusted.

... and used only on reasonably flat surfaces.

Originally Posted by Locker

That little 3" frame will NOT hold that 6000lbs+ blazer on big dips....

And those big dips, especially combined with excessively stiff WDH springs, are the key.

[gbaglo]

At one hundred miles an hour. Let's add that too.

[MichaelS78]

I hadn't thought about WDH and off-road conditions like when boondocking. So is it normally fine unless it's a really big dip or is it best to take off if you're driving say 20mph on a gravel forest road full of big potholes?

In other words when do people take the WDH off because road is too rough?

[noblets]

If I take potholes at more than 6 mph, my head hits the truck's roof!

[MichaelS78]

Originally Posted by noblets

If I take potholes at more than 6 mph, my head hits the truck's roof!

We don't have our trailer yet so I can only speak to experience of driving my Honda element down forest roads. I'm usually dodging them but occasionally can't get out of the way. I barely feel it in the cabin but I know it's hard on the vehicle so slow down if there are a lot. I suppose while towing a trailer (not with element of course) I would be going slower like 10mph so maybe the question is not necessary... Slow speeds are fine to leave the WDH on.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

At one hundred miles an hour. Let's add that too.

I don't see how one hundred miles an hour is relevant, but looking at the truck in the original post, my guess is that this particular trailer might be used in much rougher terrain than a typical Escape, so that terrain would be relevant.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by MichaelS78

I hadn't thought about WDH and off-road conditions like when boondocking. So is it normally fine unless it's a really big dip or is it best to take off if you're driving say 20mph on a gravel forest road full of big potholes?

Potholes are not the issue. Driving through a deep dip is the extreme condition of concern for a WDH, and you general won't see that on anything which is an actual road of any kind. I doubt that this is a concern for many people, even those who crawl down rough gravel roads to remote campsites.

Look at the change in angle of the WDH spring bar when you tighten them up; if you go through a dip that makes them bend more by the same amount, you have doubled the tension in the chains and the force on the trailer's tongue.

[escape artist]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

At one hundred miles an hour. Let's add that too.

Hi: gbaglo... BP used to be great... but I don't think you can get it to go like that anymore!!! I'm more into diesel now. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

[noblets]

Originally Posted by edlynnrich

Thanks Alf. Escape recommends 50 psi for the 21c. I did a little google searching and found some recommendations for a 20% pressure reduction for gravel roads. So I’m thinking carrying 40 psi for roads such as the Dempster in the Yukon. Anyone have any thoughts on that?

Aside from cushioning the ride, another reason for lowering the tire pressure on rough roads is to prevent or reduce tire puncture from sharp rocks. Visually, there's not much difference in the tire shape until you get down around 20psi. I have a little battery powered compressor that I carry to air up the tires when I get back on a smooth road

[skyfree]

For airing down off road you don’t use tire pressure charts. Those are meant for highway speeds where heat buildup is an issue. You need to keep your speed down when underinflated off the chart though. In my truck fully loaded at GVWR, I air down 30% and keep speeds under 50 mph. With no load I’ve gone as low as 45%, which is more typical for off road drivers. I would feel more comfortable airing down with A/T tires that have a decent sidewall construction rather than the stock trailer tires that come new. The sidewalls come in contact with things once they bulge.

[happyoldcarguy]

2004 Escape 17, still rides great, no WDH ever, but have noted all the comments about Torflex wearing out. Drove the Dempster with 40 pounds in the trailer tires. Shook the fridge door off first, then cracked the lines in the fridge spewing ammonia. Fortunately it was when Reece and Tammy did repairs, installed a new fridge. What are the advantages and disadvantages of going lower than 40 psi?

[Mike G]

Originally Posted by happyoldcarguy

2004 Escape 17, still rides great, no WDH ever, but have noted all the comments about Torflex wearing out. Drove the Dempster with 40 pounds in the trailer tires. Shook the fridge door off first, then cracked the lines in the fridge spewing ammonia. Fortunately it was when Reece and Tammy did repairs, installed a new fridge. What are the advantages and disadvantages of going lower than 40 psi?

Disadvantage: tires are rated for capacity at max specified pressure. Reducing tire pressure lowers carrying capacity, and if it's too low it can lead to a blowout on the highway.