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Old 05-21-2020, 02:30 PM   #1
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Power charging issue

I have had my camper plugged in-for 3 days, when I unplug it there is no power at all......had a similar problem last year and it was a bad Progressive surge protector........any thoughts, we have not moved it from last Fall. We also have a solar panel on the roof thats not generating either apparently. We have a 2018 5.0TA fifth wheel. When plugged in, have full power.....any thoughts appreciated
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Old 05-21-2020, 02:38 PM   #2
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I have had my camper plugged in-for 3 days, when I unplug it there is no power at all......had a similar problem last year and it was a bad Progressive surge protector........any thoughts, we have not moved it from last Fall. We also have a solar panel on the roof thats not generating either apparently. We have a 2018 5.0TA fifth wheel. When plugged in, have full power.....any thoughts appreciated



Is the battery switch on? I assume so . I would check the switch itself.
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Old 05-21-2020, 02:40 PM   #3
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The switch, battery cables, battery/s.
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Old 05-21-2020, 02:49 PM   #4
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Fuses for 120v, circuit breaker? Check to insure the GFC did not activate and kill some circuits.
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Old 05-21-2020, 02:54 PM   #5
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Check the big fuse nearest the battery. Check for loose battery connections.

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Old 05-21-2020, 03:59 PM   #6
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Solar is indépendant from the converter. Even with the disconnect switch off, the solar controller should still keep the batteries charged (assuming you have sun). Likewise, the converter should still supply 12V to the appliances & lights, even with the battery disconnect switch open assuming that you are plugged in.

If everything works plugged in, but not when disconnected, the converter is working. Check that there is 12V at the battery. If there is, check the main fuse at the battery & the thermal circuit breaker near the converter. Even with an open fuse or thermal breaker, the solar system should keep the battery charged. Does the GoPower controller show anything?

If the battery is dead, check that there is fluid over the plates. A dry battery , as well as a completely discharged one may not be recoverable.
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Old 05-21-2020, 04:18 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Michael.Chadwick View Post
I have had my camper plugged in-for 3 days, when I unplug it there is no power at all......had a similar problem last year and it was a bad Progressive surge protector........any thoughts, we have not moved it from last Fall. We also have a solar panel on the roof thats not generating either apparently. We have a 2018 5.0TA fifth wheel. When plugged in, have full power.....any thoughts appreciated
Have you kept the batteries topped off with distilled water?
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Old 05-21-2020, 07:52 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Vermilye View Post
Solar is indépendant from the converter. Even with the disconnect switch off, the solar controller should still keep the batteries charged (assuming you have sun). Likewise, the converter should still supply 12V to the appliances & lights, even with the battery disconnect switch open assuming that you are plugged in.

If everything works plugged in, but not when disconnected, the converter is working. Check that there is 12V at the battery. If there is, check the main fuse at the battery & the thermal circuit breaker near the converter. Even with an open fuse or thermal breaker, the solar system should keep the battery charged. Does the GoPower controller show anything?

If the battery is dead, check that there is fluid over the plates. A dry battery , as well as a completely discharged one may not be recoverable.
Everything John said, plus one more. I have a 2019 5.0. My battery on / off switch failed on my last trip. The terminal fitting on the back side of the switch was loose and would make intermittent contact. Just one night with the loose connection caused the batteries to drain to 63%. If this is the same issue on your rig and it has been idle for a week or more, I'm betting your battery is completely drained and will need to be replaced. Bypassing the switch entirely by connecting the two leads together with a small bolt and nut, is a reliable work around until the switch is replaced. Assuming that is the problem, of course. Check everything John outlined including the switch terminals.

Edit: One clarifying point, we were camping at the time so we were using more juice than a rig sitting idle. Lights, fans, heater, etc. Also I received a replacement switch from ETI under warranty.
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Old 05-21-2020, 08:12 PM   #9
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Arnie,
I can not understand why that switch would cause a drain your battery, It turns off parasitic draws, it does not draw any itself so if a lead was loose, the switch would not work. Unless you had your inverter on, there is not that much much parasitic draw. It is for storage really, no use for months, not one night.
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Old 05-22-2020, 12:41 AM   #10
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Arnie,
I can not understand why that switch would cause a drain your battery, It turns off parasitic draws, it does not draw any itself so if a lead was loose, the switch would not work. Unless you had your inverter on, there is not that much much parasitic draw. It is for storage really, no use for months, not one night.
Jim, I was puzzled too. The only thing I can think of was that we boon-docked the night before, then had a rainy travel day so not much solar. I didn’t think much of it because I knew we had electric at the next site. But the failed switch also prevented shore power from charging the battery. The battery was likely down when we pulled into camp.

I didn’t notice until I unplugged the next morning and there was no power to the fridge on propane. No 12V power anywhere. I plugged back in to get the fridge working and started to troubleshoot. It took awhile and a call to ETI to confirm my suspicions, then bypassing the switch allowed everything to work as it should.

The key point here regarding the OP is that shore power to the converter will not charge the batteries if the switch has failed or is off.
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Old 05-22-2020, 01:01 AM   #11
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Check the big fuse nearest the battery. Check for loose battery connections.

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We had to replace it on ours a few months ago. Thanks to PatandLinda for telling us what to look for when we were majorly frustrated about the situation. It was very hard to see since we have the u-shaped dinette in the trailer, so it took us a while to even find it after Pat told us what to look for.


I now have a pack of spare fuses!
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Old 05-22-2020, 07:13 AM   #12
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If your original battery switch fails, replace it with a sturdy rotary switch. My original switch failed and then the replacement ETI sent me failed.

I was told to buy what I wanted and send them the invoice. That's what I did.

No slack at all in the wires to my switch. Had to make some adjustments there.
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Old 05-22-2020, 08:14 AM   #13
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ETI is now using a new switch as they had so many problem with the toggle switch.
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Old 05-22-2020, 02:29 PM   #14
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ETI is now using a new switch as they had so many problem with the toggle switch.
Glad to hear it. That toggle was junk! The heater pad switches appear to be the same ones too.
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Old 05-22-2020, 02:43 PM   #15
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Not sure if the heated pads are a big demand option but the location of the switch was a PITA so I relocated the switch and added a LED to tell me the power was on. Used them maybe 3 times and did not order them again on subsequent Escapes. Really big power hog on battery.
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