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Old 06-06-2019, 12:40 PM   #1
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Power from 6 Volt Batteries

Coming back from Osoyoos we stopped at Flying J's, etc. for the night. I uncoupled from the 7 pin on my 4 Runner in order to run off the trailer batteries. I was concerned about draining the vehicle battery. I had loads of fun each morning trying to plug back in. What a pain. The 4-Runner's receptacle is recessed way back in underneath the bumper. Even the guy who walked us through the hitch up orientation at the Escape facility said it was difficult. One time I had to lie down on my back in a driving rain with a flash light in one hand in order to plug the harness in. Has anyone added a cutoff switch on the 21 that would bypass the tow vehicle battery?
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Old 06-06-2019, 12:48 PM   #2
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What about a short extension to move the connection point in front of the bumper?
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Old 06-06-2019, 01:26 PM   #3
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What about a short extension to move the connection point in front of the bumper?
That is almost too simple.
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Old 06-06-2019, 01:29 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Telescopist View Post
Coming back from Osoyoos we stopped at Flying J's, etc. for the night. I uncoupled from the 7 pin on my 4 Runner in order to run off the trailer batteries. I was concerned about draining the vehicle battery. I had loads of fun each morning trying to plug back in. What a pain. The 4-Runner's receptacle is recessed way back in underneath the bumper. Even the guy who walked us through the hitch up orientation at the Escape facility said it was difficult. One time I had to lie down on my back in a driving rain with a flash light in one hand in order to plug the harness in. Has anyone added a cutoff switch on the 21 that would bypass the tow vehicle battery?
Don't know about a 4 Runner but many vehicles have a built in disconnect for the power wire. It uses a simple relay the works off of the ignition circuit. It should be easy to test...check the power wire for voltage when running then shut down the truck and check again.
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Old 06-06-2019, 01:56 PM   #5
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On our 2012 Highlander the receptacle was mounted way to the left side of the vehicle and when we picked up the trailer AZ Jack observed that a hard right turn would pull the plug out and do some damage. I radiused out a mouse hole in the lower bumper cover with a die grinder he had and Jack welded a 1” X 1” angle iron stand-off to the receiver. We moved the plug into place. Worked great for the whole time we had the trailer and the Highlander. Maybe a short extension or rewire of the plug would help you out. Might as well have it accessible as fight it all the time.
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Old 06-06-2019, 03:43 PM   #6
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Here is a 3' extender....https://www.amazon.com/ONLINE-LED-ST...gateway&sr=8-6
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Old 06-06-2019, 04:42 PM   #7
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I'm not sure about your 4Runner, but on my 2012 when the key is removed or in the "Off" position, the +12 volt feed on the connector goes dead, so no need to unhook the cable. As I recall from previous discussions, you have a 2019 4Runner, and I don't suspect that Toyota would have changed it between 2012 and 2019, but ya never know. You can just use a multi-meter to check yours; there a lots of images on the web showing the location of the +12 connection in the 7-pin connector - just make sure you're looking at the flat blade version and not the round pin version.


https://www.etrailer.com/question-108117.html


As you mentioned, the 4Runner factory connector (it has both 4-pin and 7-pin) is way up under the rear of the vehicle - presumably to keep it out of harm's way when banging around in the rocks and rough stuff. I soldered up a short extension using a fancy connector that included both 4-pin and 7-pin along with the LED's showing the status of each pin - at the time (6 years ago) the only 7-pin extensions I could find were 6' long. I used a piece of flat 1/8" aluminum stock for the mount, and the bottom of the connector is even with the bottom of the hitch receiver, so I didn't lose any ground clearance. The cable hanging down loose is for the rear view camera and is usually up and out of the way.


NB: Whatever you do, just make sure that the wiring in the extension is of adequate gauge for +12 volts, ground, and the brakes in particular.
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Old 06-06-2019, 05:09 PM   #8
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While an extension makes the most sense since you are probably going to want to unhook when staying for more than a day or two at a location, if you don't have a disconnect relay already built into the charge line, this one will do the trick.

Wire the control connection to a ignition controlled connection, and run the charge line through the contact terminals. If you look for another brand, make sure it is continuous rated. The intermittent relays will burn up when used for this application.
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Old 06-07-2019, 06:51 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian and Sue View Post
Don't know about a 4 Runner but many vehicles have a built in disconnect for the power wire. It uses a simple relay the works off of the ignition circuit. It should be easy to test...check the power wire for voltage when running then shut down the truck and check again.
Great suggestion. The first step which I overlooked is to see if there is a problem to begin with. It must have been a situation where I read somewhere that voltage from the tow vehicle battery trickles into the 2 six volt batteries as long as you are hooked up. Hooked up is one thing. Running is another. Thanks.
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Old 06-07-2019, 06:59 AM   #10
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I have one of these that tests your plug to determine it is properly functioning as well as power when the ignition is off
https://www.amazon.com/58270-7-Way-B...gateway&sr=8-3
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Old 06-07-2019, 07:55 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Iowa Dave View Post
On our 2012 Highlander the receptacle was mounted way to the left side of the vehicle and when we picked up the trailer AZ Jack observed that a hard right turn would pull the plug out and do some damage. I radiused out a mouse hole in the lower bumper cover with a die grinder he had and Jack welded a 1” X 1” angle iron stand-off to the receiver. We moved the plug into place. Worked great for the whole time we had the trailer and the Highlander. Maybe a short extension or rewire of the plug would help you out. Might as well have it accessible as fight it all the time.
Iowa Dave
I've not had that problem. The harness once plugged in is even tough to pull out. It is really secured!
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Old 06-07-2019, 07:56 AM   #12
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While an extension makes the most sense since you are probably going to want to unhook when staying for more than a day or two at a location, if you don't have a disconnect relay already built into the charge line, this one will do the trick.

Wire the control connection to a ignition controlled connection, and run the charge line through the contact terminals. If you look for another brand, make sure it is continuous rated. The intermittent relays will burn up when used for this application.
I'm going to find out if a disconnect relay is by default already built into the charge line before I take another step. Thanks for your suggest. Duly bookmarked.
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Old 06-07-2019, 08:27 AM   #13
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Great Eggstrications had encouraging news which is that the 12 volt feed on the connector goes dead after the ignition switch is in the off position. With the caveat that my 2019 is configured the same as his 2012. Probably is. I'll check later on with a tester. I don't mind plugging in once and only unplugging if I'm staying somewhere for more than a day or two. But definitely NOT when we are doing stop and goes at truck stops.

So your link to the 7-Way Trailer Plug Socket Extension Cable seems to be the most feasible/simple workaround if I find that voltage from the vehicle battery is seeping through.

Thanks.
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Old 06-07-2019, 09:09 AM   #14
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I have one of these that tests your plug to determine it is properly functioning as well as power when the ignition is off
https://www.amazon.com/58270-7-Way-B...gateway&sr=8-3
Ordered.
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Old 06-07-2019, 10:09 AM   #15
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Ordered.
I have one of these. Was great with the RAV4 & the 7 pin receptacle I installed. When I switched to a 2016 Tacoma, the 7 pin receptacle was turned 90°, but still easy to see. Now, with my 2019 F 150, the receptacle is turned 180°, and you have to lie down enter the truck to see it.

I haven't found one that has the LEDs on the end, but am still looking...
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Old 06-07-2019, 03:40 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Telescopist View Post
Great Eggstrications had encouraging news which is that the 12 volt feed on the connector goes dead after the ignition switch is in the off position. With the caveat that my 2019 is configured the same as his 2012. Probably is. I'll check later on with a tester.

...
A simple way to check if your tow battery is powering the trailer, without spending any money, is to:
1. One evening after dark*, plug into your tow vehicle.
2. Turn on a light in the trailer.
3. Flip the main battery disconnect in the trailer to OFF.

If the light stays ON then power is being pulled from the tow.
*To eliminate any question that the solar is contributing power.

--
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Old 06-07-2019, 09:14 PM   #17
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A simple way to check if your tow battery is powering the trailer, without spending any money, is to:
1. One evening after dark*, plug into your tow vehicle.
2. Turn on a light in the trailer.
3. Flip the main battery disconnect in the trailer to OFF.

If the light stays ON then power is being pulled from the tow.
*To eliminate any question that the solar is contributing power.
Alan
Very clever! I try that tomorrow.
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Old 06-08-2019, 08:54 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by alanmalk View Post
A simple way to check if your tow battery is powering the trailer, without spending any money, is to:
1. One evening after dark*, plug into your tow vehicle.
2. Turn on a light in the trailer.
3. Flip the main battery disconnect in the trailer to OFF.

If the light stays ON then power is being pulled from the tow.
*To eliminate any question that the solar is contributing power.

--
Alan
This is also the method I use to check all the light functions, from tail/marker to brake. Works just as good as a little test plug, one of which I bought years ago and now leave somewhere in storage as it really is not needed.
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Old 06-08-2019, 10:00 AM   #19
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This is also the method I use to check all the light functions, from tail/marker to brake. Works just as good as a little test plug, one of which I bought years ago and now leave somewhere in storage as it really is not needed.
All the light functions inside and outside the trailer can be tested when disconnected from the tow vehicle?
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Old 06-08-2019, 10:28 AM   #20
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This is also the method I use to check all the light functions, from tail/marker to brake. Works just as good as a little test plug, one of which I bought years ago and now leave somewhere in storage as it really is not needed.
While this works if I have the trailer & tow vehicle together, I'd hate to have to hook up the trailer & haul it to the local (30 miles away) Ford dealer to show him the charge line isn't working.
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