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Old 12-19-2015, 02:56 PM   #1
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Propane heater not working

The propane heater on our 7 month old 5.0TA is not working correctly. It will start, but does not stay running. The fire will go out and the fan stops running, like it is supposed to, after just a few minutes of operation. I suspect it's the regulator, but not certain. The stove burners will light and seem to work correctly. The unit is winterized, so I am unable to use the hot water heater. When the furnace is running, the regulator is making a squealing type of noise. Noise is not present when the stove is running.

We leave for Arizona in a week and I really need the furnace in good working order for the trip. I am considering ordering a new Marshall regulator from Amazon. Any advice or help would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 12-19-2015, 02:58 PM   #2
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I bought a Marshall regulator and two new hoses to add to my spares. We've noticed that high-pitched sound as well and didn't notice it on our 2010 17B.
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Old 12-19-2015, 03:09 PM   #3
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I bought a Marshall regulator and two new hoses to add to my spares. We've noticed that high-pitched sound as well and didn't notice it on our 2010 17B.
Hmm, maybe I should order a regulator and throw it in the spare parts bin. We usually run off our curbside bottle. Last time we emptied that bottle I switched over to the full bottle and got a horrible squealing sound. Ended up switching the full bottle to the curb side. Scott

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Old 12-19-2015, 03:38 PM   #4
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I'm not so sure that it is the regulator now. The furnace will not light at all now. It goes through 3 attempts to light, then shuts itself down, like designed. Fan is operating correctly. While it is trying to light, I can hear gas flowing. I also cracked the line at the furnace and there seems to be plenty of gas there. Looks like a call to the manufacturer first thing Monday morning. We had a sail switch go out on the Casita and that was an easy fix. Hopefully it will be something similar.
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Old 12-19-2015, 04:00 PM   #5
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I'm not so sure that it is the regulator now. The furnace will not light at all now. It goes through 3 attempts to light, then shuts itself down, like designed. Fan is operating correctly. While it is trying to light, I can hear gas flowing. I also cracked the line at the furnace and there seems to be plenty of gas there. Looks like a call to the manufacturer first thing Monday morning. We had a sail switch go out on the Casita and that was an easy fix. Hopefully it will be something similar.
Bob, have you taken the burner cover off (just remove two screws and the cover comes right off) and looked to see if there's any of those black flakes clogging the inlet? We had a ton of them after only a couple nights of camping. Once I cleaned them out, the furnace worked perfectly.
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Old 12-19-2015, 04:14 PM   #6
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I'm not so sure that it is the regulator now. The furnace will not light at all now. It goes through 3 attempts to light, then shuts itself down, like designed. Fan is operating correctly. While it is trying to light, I can hear gas flowing. I also cracked the line at the furnace and there seems to be plenty of gas there. Looks like a call to the manufacturer first thing Monday morning. We had a sail switch go out on the Casita and that was an easy fix. Hopefully it will be something similar.

I’m going to keep a close eye on this thread, I love having heat when it’s cold. There was an earlier thread about members replacing sail switches. Guess I need to find out what part number and the process/how easy it is to replace.

Not to get off topic, but last summer was a plumbing challenge for us. Had to replace the toilet flush valve halfway through the season, spurred me to put in the cutoff valve and stock a spare valve in the spare parts bin. Then when we were over in the Yukon the kitchen faucet started to leak. Not a big deal, just stopped at Home Hardware in Whitehorse and replaced the standard faucet with a really nice Moen. Bank of America froze my Visa since buying home hardware instead of costly diesel are not typical purchases for me in the Yukon. Got the new faucet installed, the Visa freed up to purchase more costly diesel and had a wonderful trip.

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Old 12-19-2015, 04:47 PM   #7
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Tried removing the furnace but not having any luck. I removed the grill that directs airflow. Disconnected the propane line and removed the screws securing the furnace. I can move the furnace but it will not release from the back, where it connects with the external exhaust vent. So I removed the 6 screws holding the vent on, and the thing is so secured with sealant that it will not budge. I could cut the sealant, but I don't have the proper sealant to replace it and it is supposed to rain tonight. Ugh!! I thought that it would just slip out of the rear exhaust, but apparently not and I don't want to pull too hard and break something.
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Old 12-19-2015, 05:06 PM   #8
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I wouldn't be messing with an appliance that is under warranty for fear of voiding the warranty. You probably have a dozen authorized service centers nearby.
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Old 12-19-2015, 06:10 PM   #9
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We has the same problem. We replaced the sail switch and it solved the problem. We have the older 5.0SA, though/
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Old 12-19-2015, 06:29 PM   #10
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If you think the sealant is bad, wait until you try to re-align the furnace and vent properly after removal.

Reace wasn't happy with the mobile repair guy I got.
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Old 12-19-2015, 06:48 PM   #11
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If you think the sealant is bad, wait until you try to re-align the furnace and vent properly after removal.

Reace wasn't happy with the mobile repair guy I got.

Do you have to pull/move the furnace to replace the sail switch? Thanks, Scott

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Old 12-19-2015, 07:55 PM   #12
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Update: After returning everything to normal, I tried one final attempt to run the furnace. It actually started and I ran it for about 45 minutes. The longest it has ever run. I also learned that the regulator only makes a squealing sound when running off the drivers side bottle. No noise at all from the passenger side. I still believe there is some sort of issue, but it was good to get it running and have it stay running.
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Old 12-19-2015, 09:25 PM   #13
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Scott, I have typed this a couple times but it boils down to faulty memory on my part. The switch is basically right under the squirrel cage. Once you have full acess to the 'cage you are home free.

Reace or maybe Rae would know better. This on the 2014 version in dinette.
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Old 12-19-2015, 10:40 PM   #14
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I had a similar problem which turned out to be the sail switch. The furnace in my Escape 21 happens to use a sail switch that is different from the one most RV shops carry. Be sure to tell the shop that the furnace is under warranty. There is a thread about this, including a photo of the offending sail switch, elsewhere on this forum.
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Old 12-19-2015, 10:50 PM   #15
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I had a similar problem which turned out to be the sail switch. The furnace in my Escape 21 happens to use a sail switch that is different from the one most RV shops carry. Be sure to tell the shop that the furnace is under warranty. There is a thread about this, including a photo of the offending sail switch, elsewhere on this forum.
Direct link to Mike's: http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f9...html#post92310
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Old 12-20-2015, 11:30 AM   #16
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Donna, BC Nomad, Mike,Thank you for the information and the link. Have a Happy Holiday, Scott and family.
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