Propane regulator replacement

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

one easy place is to remove your stove top, remove a stove burner assembly, and get a vinyl hose that will fit snugly over the gas jet (5/16ths ID?) and connect to your manometer, then turn on that burner... but this only works if the stove doesn't have its OWN regulator.

The older Atwood DV20/DV30 cooktops did have their own regulator. I know because ours seemed to vent to atmosphere and it occasionally smelled like propane around the cooktop. The newer Suburban SDS2 recessed cooktops also appear to have a built in regulator as part of the manifold/valve assembly. The best and most convenient location to test propane pressure is likely the refrigerator test port or the exterior propane quick connect if one has that option.

[ATHiker]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

X2 and don’t forget the longer single hose from regulator to gas piping under the trailer. Then you’re set all around.
Iowa Dave

Does anyone with a 21 without the spray foam insulation have a photo of where this hose connects to the gas piping under the trailer. I would like to replace this hose on ours, but we have the spray foam insulation and I don't want to remove more insulation than is required.

[Iowa Dave]

Hi Tom
Well I guess I’ll have to make the long trip down to the Escape
garage and take a picture for you and a measurement. It’s such a long ways.
Stand by.
Iowa Dave

[canyonrider]

Originally Posted by CharlesPou

so, anyone test their inH2O for 11" when they replaced regulator? I just got my new manometer in, but need some lesson on how to use it. mainly, where do I connect it to take reading? cheers

There should be a threaded port on the side of your regulator for this purpose. At least that's where it is on our 2016 E19. The inch numbers referenced in this thread and others (e.g., 11 inches) are generally taken at the regulator.

[Iowa Dave]

Hi Tom
Well I’m back. Took longer to get my carcass back up off the concrete than anything else.
The hose is a 36 inch long hose. The hookup to the camper piping is directly behind the front mounting bolt of the front box about an inch back from the edge of the camper body. So you won’t have to carve much off to get to it .On the one photo you can see the plastic red compressible sleeve from the Anderson hitch and it’s directly behind that. On that same photo at about 6:30 on a clock is the front mounting bolt for the front box.
Hope this helps.
Iowa Dave

[ATHiker]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

Hi Tom
Well I’m back. Took longer to get my carcass back up off the concrete than anything else.
The hose is a 36 inch long hose. The hookup to the camper piping is directly behind the front mounting bolt of the front box about an inch back from the edge of the camper body. So you won’t have to carve much off to get to it .On the one photo you can see the plastic red compressible sleeve from the Anderson hitch and it’s directly behind that. On that same photo at about 6:30 on a clock is the front mounting bolt for the front box.
Hope this helps.
Iowa Dave

Thanks greatly Dave!

[John in Santa Cruz]

indeed, on my '14 E21, the gas hose from the regulator to the hard lines, the joint is directly under my cargo box, so just snip a few tiewraps and its easy access without cutting any foam. do be sure to use 'flare wrenches' on those fittings, instead of plain open ends, to avoid stripping or rounding them

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by canyonrider

There should be a threaded port on the side of your regulator for this purpose. At least that's where it is on our 2016 E19. The inch numbers referenced in this thread and others (e.g., 11 inches) are generally taken at the regulator.

11" w.g. is the number you want with ~50% of trailer BTU's in use. You don't want your refrigerator to drop below 11" when other things are running. With no load you want your propane pressure to be around 12" w.c. +/-.

[fudge_brownie]

Well I have to eat my words as last night was the first night the refrigerator did not fault during the overnight. In anticipation of returning to lower altitudes I had set the column inches at 11.7 using a manometer at the propane regulator. Yes, setting the column inches requires the use of a manometer, there is not a method of counting the number of turns.

As I mentioned in an above post (see post # 17) the temperature is another factor, it was a bit warmer for a low temp last night, 35 degrees. I did wake once during the night to the refrigerator clicking as it tried to re-light. It must have been successful. Perhaps those few degrees warmer was enough.

[CharlesPou]

fudge, I'm missing something about your refrigerator not working properly at 35 degrees? some funny stories come to mind, but I won't bore you. cheers

[fudge_brownie]

A good question as it is not apparent through the thread. You had asked:

one question I have is: how does altitude effect regulator pressure? IDK, but seems would increase inH2O at higher altitude, because less air pressure, and decrease inH2O at lower altitudes. can someone verify this?

My replies have been an effort giving you some idea of the issues As I am currently camped at altitude, 9,065 feet to be exact. Over the two weeks I have struggled with keeping the refrigerator from alarming and shutting down at night..

There are several opinions on what happens at altitude, the one that seems to make the most sense is with the reduction of oxygen the flame on the refrigerator is too rich and goes out. Another is that there is a Venturi effect at the flame and that compensates for the lack of oxygen. My testing with increasing and reducing the column inches did not solve the flame out problem. Perhaps there were other variables out of my control such as wind and temperature.

My conclusion is the recommendation of Iowa Dave at 11.7 inches has given the best performance. I still have several nights to confirm this.

Stove, furnace and water heater do not have apparent issues with 9,000 feet. A refrigerator on propane may have issues. There is not predictor of what your refrigerator will do.

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

At a minimum the main line should be inspected where it passes through the hole in the propane tank tray. The metal edge can wear on the rubber tubing over thousands of miles. I took another piece of reinforced rubber hose and wrapped it around that section and zip tied it tight.

I removed my propane tray , removed the 3 broken self drilling screws that Escape installed , tapped the frame , painted the frame and tray and reinstalled the tray using 4.-1/4 x28 SS hex head bolts & SS flat and lock washers
I also put some nylon spacers between the frame and tray so water wasn’t trapped and installed a plastic chase nipple in the hole in the tray where the propane hose passes through the tray
Seems to have corrected the problems

[75thRanger]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

11" w.g. is the number you want with ~50% of trailer BTU's in use. You don't want your refrigerator to drop below 11" when other things are running. With no load you want your propane pressure to be around 12" w.c. +/-.

Is the pressure adjustment the small black cap on top of the regulator that says 'Do not remove'?

[John in Santa Cruz]

its under the plastic cap in the middle of the 'funnel' shaped part of the regulator body.

on the one below, the lower big round part is the actual regulator, and the black plug in the middle covers the adjuster screw.

[MyronL]

Speaking of propane hoses here's a new one on me. Testing all propane systems, I just found out the flexible 15 inch pigtail hose from my regulator to the tank is bad. At the connection to the tank, $20bucks for new hose to the regulator. No idea how or why or how long the hose connection to tank was missing the part that keeps the brass snugged up when screwed on.

[75thRanger]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

its under the plastic cap in the middle of the 'funnel' shaped part of the regulator body.

on the one below, the lower big round part is the actual regulator, and the black plug in the middle covers the adjuster screw.

Thanks, My propane gave me some trouble on my fishing trip last week and I ordered a new regulator. I'm guessing it's the regulator. The fridge quit while traveling and there was no gas to the stove top either. Not the first time this has happened. Both tanks filled and both valves open

Got a manometer coming too.

[Ronn]

Originally Posted by MyronL

Speaking of propane hoses here's a new one on me. Testing all propane systems, I just found out the flexible 15 inch pigtail hose from my regulator to the tank is bad. At the connection to the tank, $20bucks for new hose to the regulator. No idea how or why or how long the hose connection to tank was missing the part that keeps the brass snugged up when screwed on.

Myron, could this be tied into your refrigerator problem?

[MyronL]

Unlikely since got 2 full tanks and auto switch-over. Ruling nothing out. Fridge temp, after new hose install, on 5 dots-Propane at noon, has dropped, in 3 hours time by only 4 degrees. It's in the shade and 80 degrees outside. Got a nice pilot light, too. (I'll take it.) Testing of course, will continue until I learn what's sick. I almost ordered a Nova Kool this morning.

[LeonW]

For what it is worth, I am on my third propane regulator in six years. I can’t remember what the impetus for replacing the first one was. I got the third one the spring when the previous regulator wouldn’t do the auto switch over reliably. What I have noticed is that the fridge performs markedly better after each time after I installed the new regulator. Last Fall during the Mississippi River Rendezvous, Thoer and I used Iowa Dave’s manometer to check the pressure at the fridge and it was fine. The fridge was working “OK” then. But not nearly as well as it is now after the new regulator got put in.

Paul, regarding your difficulties in cool weather, my dim recollection is that either Dometic or Norcold makes a winter cover for the fridge access panel that looks like it has fewer holes. I wonder if installing a bit of sheet metal to cover some of the venting might not help.

[Tonny LR]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

When one of my pigtails (short hose from the tank to the regular) cracked on the 19
and the regulator didn’t want to reliably switch over from an empty to full tank I bought a new marshal regulator, two new pigtails ( one on each tank) and because the hose with fittings from the regulator to the hard piping ( metal piping) under the trailer was the same age, I replaced it too. Gave me the “complete” upgrade because I like the feeling of “now that’s all done and I’ll be good for a while”. There’s not the short bend on the longer supply hose like there is in the pigtails so it would logically last longer, I’m just a “do it all” sort of person. I change the water filters (I have two) each spring. I change the anode before the old one is clear gone), I never tried to save grease seals, just get new. I will trade what some see as wasting money for the peace of mind I get from close examination and new parts. But I will pick up nickel soda cans and beer bottles in Iowa and cash them in when I go to the grocery store. I am 1/2 Bohemie and proud of it. We can save money or work for more money but we don’t feel bad when we spend it if we get good products including beer and spirits. Some times I take in maybe 100 cans and bottles. The $5.00 I get on the credit slip added to the $5.00 I have in my pocket makes me feel like my six pack of good beer only cost $5.00. I always say to the clerk when she tells me I need say $4.85 in cash “Only $4.85? Man this is like perpetual motion.” She gives me a strange look and I’m gone.
Iowa Dave

Hello Dave,
Thank you for sharing your wisdom of replacing the 3 feet propane hose . I plan to replace mine too. Would this Camco Propane Hose Assembly - 3/8" Female Flare x 3/8" Female Flare - 3' Long fit the connections.

TonnyLR