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Old 09-02-2020, 10:39 AM   #61
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I should have taken a pic before I started digging at it. But I think once a job starts, pictures are forgotten
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Old 09-02-2020, 10:52 AM   #62
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A lot of changes since 2006.
Mine in 2008.
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Old 09-02-2020, 11:50 AM   #63
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I’ve been following this thread, very nice to see such online help, but I also think you made my mind up regarding getting the insulation and heat pads or not, I prefer to have the running systems in plain sight. I also like the advice to go dry camping and lug water, my friend did this by Temporally converting His toilet to a compost toilet with garbage bags and wood shavings, good luck
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Old 09-02-2020, 01:12 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toddybegood View Post
I had a leak in my fresh tank INSIDE my 2006 17b. It was where the inlet hose met the tank. I had to excavate the spray foam around where the inlet hose attaches to tank on the inside. I found out why upon excavating. Escape misjudged where they drilled the hole in the bottom of the trailer where it would accept the tank and when they shoved the tank underneath it gouged the inlet. I replaced part of the inlet and now it only leaks outside the trailer when filled to the top. I would have to drop the tank to fix the test because the other part is glued to the tank. I'll try to post pics.
You said the fitting was glued to the tank - it's probably spin welded. If you can get the tank off, it can be repaired by drilling out the old fitting and spin welding on a new one.

A phone call to Escape could put you in contact with who spin welds their tanks (if they don't do it themselves) and since you are in BC, it's probably local.
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Old 09-02-2020, 02:28 PM   #65
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I prefer to have the running systems in plain sight.
You can still have an insulated and warmer floor by retrofitting insulation as I've done on both my 19 and 21. I too want to keep the propane lines, electrical and plumbing lines readily accessible. Doesn't insulate the tanks, although that could be done. I've traveled with snow on the ground and temperatures just dipping below freezing at night and never had a problem. If it was really cold I'd just travel dry until I reached a warmer climate.

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Old 09-02-2020, 02:44 PM   #66
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Great to know, I’m going to wait and to see the 23 but I’ll probably go with the 19, my experience is the easier it is to hook up and tow and park, the more I would use it
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Old 09-02-2020, 03:03 PM   #67
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Great to know, I’m going to wait and to see the 23 but I’ll probably go with the 19, my experience is the easier it is to hook up and tow and park, the more I would use it
From my experience it takes me the same amount of time to hook up my 21 as it did my 17
Once hooked up and on the road I find very little difference in towing between my 21 and my 17 .
Only once have we found a campsite where a 17 would fit but a 21 would not.
We’ve looked at the 23 but like the layout of our 21C better .
The additional space did not justify the additional cost IMHO
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Old 09-02-2020, 04:04 PM   #68
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Originally Posted by Toddybegood View Post
I had a leak in my fresh tank INSIDE my 2006 17b. It was where the inlet hose met the tank.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
A lot of changes since 2006.
Mine in 2008...
Yes, there are changes, but Toddybegood and gbaglo are showing different parts of the fresh water tank installation - the fill port on top and the outlet and drain at the bottom. Is the fill port still on the top side, accesses through the floor with the hose running in the trailer's interior?
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Old 09-02-2020, 04:38 PM   #69
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Beats me. Only picture I have appears to show hose that may be from fill port to the tank, but the tank is under the floor, so if there was a leak at that point, the leak wouldn't be inside the trailer ( I think ).
Any idea what that larger hose is?
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Old 09-02-2020, 06:53 PM   #70
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The green/white hose is the non-city water fill hose. The clear hose is the vent.

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Old 09-02-2020, 06:55 PM   #71
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There is a vertical hose barb. A lot of water rushes down it when filling. The damage was at floor level. It's reasonable that some splashed out above the floor level.

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Old 09-03-2020, 07:29 AM   #72
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Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
From my experience it takes me the same amount of time to hook up my 21 as it did my 17
Once hooked up and on the road I find very little difference in towing between my 21 and my 17 .
Only once have we found a campsite where a 17 would fit but a 21 would not.
We’ve looked at the 23 but like the layout of our 21C better .
The additional space did not justify the additional cost IMHO
Thanks Steve, the 21 with a 19 floor plan may be best for us, at 6’3”, it’s the 6’5” interior hieght that has me most interested in the 23’. I know this is not the thread for this so, I’ll leave it at that.
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Old 09-04-2020, 06:06 AM   #73
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Because of the insulation did this tank leak pose a bigger problem to fix? I just ordered my first trailer with underside insulation (no pads), wondering how difficult it is to make repairs. Never had an RV and waiting for my trailer but now want to know if the insulation will make under-belly repairs too difficult to do. Would you get the insulation again? (New to camping, waiting to receive new 19 Escape). thanks
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Old 09-04-2020, 07:19 AM   #74
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Gluing & patching PE is a fool's errand

Quote:
Originally Posted by tdf-texas View Post
The only way to permanently repair a poly tank is with a plastic welder. No adhesive is going to stick to this stuff - you are just wasting your time if you try.

https://www.amazon.com/Jounjip-Plast...8534392&sr=8-5

Use PP welding rods to do the repair.

https://www.amazon.com/Polypropylene.../dp/B07TZC2395

I concur absolutely with this evaluation and recommendation.
Find a plastic welder. Otherwise, you're sticking a finger in the hole in the dike. Might work for a bit, but not a fix.
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Old 09-07-2020, 03:21 PM   #75
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I concur absolutely with this evaluation and recommendation.
Find a plastic welder. Otherwise, you're sticking a finger in the hole in the dike. Might work for a bit, but not a fix.
I agree that getting it patched by a plastic welder is ultimately the best and only sure long term solution.
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Old 09-07-2020, 04:29 PM   #76
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Well since they've put on a super patch I hope they'll leave it in place and years will go by and it won't leak. I think that there's at least a reasonable chance that'll be the case.

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Old 09-07-2020, 06:00 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Letsdothis View Post
Because of the insulation did this tank leak pose a bigger problem to fix? I just ordered my first trailer with underside insulation (no pads), wondering how difficult it is to make repairs. Never had an RV and waiting for my trailer but now want to know if the insulation will make under-belly repairs too difficult to do. Would you get the insulation again? (New to camping, waiting to receive new 19 Escape). thanks
We ordered our 19 with the installed insulation . Years later changed out the dump valves . Had to cut out some of the insulation . It came away in chunks and didn’t find it a problem . Have found it offers protection to the fiberglass . Pieces missing from rocks etc.Believe helps heat radiating from the ground or cold to keep nice temps in trailer . if you are handy , could add solid foam boards like Ron too. Just believe in insulation . Pat
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Old 05-06-2021, 04:31 PM   #78
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Hello friends, 9 months later and it's like old times reading about the Great Tank Melt -- a 2-inch hole in the bottom of our freshwater tank caused by a malfunction in our Escape-installed heating pad that burned a hole in the tank. You may remember that I DIYed a plastic weld and installed a SUPER PATCH on this sucker, and it's held long enough now that I felt confident enough to install another heating pad, finally.

The last frontier on this is replacing the spray insulation that we had to chip away when this all started. I bought some spray foam to cover the gap (basically on the entire bottom of the freshwater tank), and marched out yesterday to FINISH IT, only to quickly realize that unless I flip the entire trailer upside down, this stuff is NOT going to stick. It just drips off and forms a stalagtite hellscape of foam that drips on our gravel below.

Needless to say, I gave up and poured myself a glass of hard cider. However, I am left wondering - how the bloody heck did Escape get foam to stick on the bottom of this thing in the first place? Is there an option I'm missing? Should I just skip the foam altogether? Will the loss of insulation be significant enough to put us at risk of frozen freshwater at low temps? And if the answer to that one is YES - and if the spray foam is just not an option - what are my alternatives? Foam boards? If so, how would I attach them given that there's still intact spray foam everywhere except on the bottom of the tank where the heating pad adheres?

Thanks in advance for your help, and you'll all be invited to the Zoom drinkfest when this saga is finally at its end.
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Old 05-06-2021, 04:41 PM   #79
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Hello friends, 9 months later and it's like old times reading about the Great Tank Melt -- a 2-inch hole in the bottom of our freshwater tank caused by a malfunction in our Escape-installed heating pad that burned a hole in the tank. You may remember that I DIYed a plastic weld and installed a SUPER PATCH on this sucker, and it's held long enough now that I felt confident enough to install another heating pad, finally.

The last frontier on this is replacing the spray insulation that we had to chip away when this all started. I bought some spray foam to cover the gap (basically on the entire bottom of the freshwater tank), and marched out yesterday to FINISH IT, only to quickly realize that unless I flip the entire trailer upside down, this stuff is NOT going to stick. It just drips off and forms a stalagtite hellscape of foam that drips on our gravel below.

Needless to say, I gave up and poured myself a glass of hard cider. However, I am left wondering - how the bloody heck did Escape get foam to stick on the bottom of this thing in the first place? Is there an option I'm missing? Should I just skip the foam altogether? Will the loss of insulation be significant enough to put us at risk of frozen freshwater at low temps? And if the answer to that one is YES - and if the spray foam is just not an option - what are my alternatives? Foam boards? If so, how would I attach them given that there's still intact spray foam everywhere except on the bottom of the tank where the heating pad adheres?

Thanks in advance for your help, and you'll all be invited to the Zoom drinkfest when this saga is finally at its end.

Get some 1 inch high density foam board (big box or hardware store), cut it to fit and find a way to attach it so that it is removable if you have to repair the heat pad again.
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Old 05-06-2021, 04:43 PM   #80
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Thanks, I'd definitely thought of that but am completely unsure how to attach given there's nowhere to brace it to. I suppose I could attach directly to the heating pad, which is covered with protective tape ... but I'm not sure whether it would adhere.
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