Punctured water tank?

medora · 08-26-2020, 10:49 AM

Hey all - we have been trying to get on the road all summer and were finally planning to head out tomorrow morning - BUT when I went to fill the water tank I noted a stream of water coming from somewhere within our under trailer foam insulation. I fear our water tank is punctured. Can anyone confirm using these photos? I do have videos if they would help, I would have to post to Vimeo and link up (just let me know if I should).

medora · 08-26-2020, 10:55 AM

Here’s the video which shows what looks like a small hole — SIGH.

https://vimeo.com/451898816/11ad0252b1

Iowa Dave · 08-26-2020, 11:14 AM

Though a problem we’ve not had, I am aware of an Escape, with insulation, that developed a leak at the junction of the drain and the supply line in the corner of the tank. If it were me I would carefully remove the insulation from the corner where your tank drain is located first. Perhaps you will be “lucky” and just find a loose clamp or fitting. Sorry that’s all I have. Best of luck to you.
Iowa Dave

medora · 08-26-2020, 11:30 AM

Thanks Dave. An update - we thought maybe it was the hot water heater, so we tried shutting it offline. But we can’t. Even in off position, water is still flowing into the hot water tank. It doesn’t matter which way we have the levers set. And the leak continues throughout. I have NO idea what this tells us, but perhaps it’s helpful to someone smarter about these things than we are?

davidmurphy02 · 08-26-2020, 11:50 AM

I assume that there is no sign of water leaking inside the trailer. You said water is flowing into the hot water heater even with the pump turned off? If you are not hooked up to city water and just filling the tank that should not be possible, water would have to go through the pump to get to the hot water heater.

The foam should be pretty easy to cut away, slowly and carefully, in the area of the leak. On your last trip, heading home on the last day, was there water in your tank that you drained after arriving home? If so, that makes some kind of puncture in the tank from a road hazard unlikely or you would have seen water coming out when you arrived home. So hopefully the problem is that either the fitting in the tank for the line that feeds up to the water pump has broken off or come loose, or the hose on that fitting came off - both of which are much more easily fixed than an actual hole in the tank. And with an aerosol can of foam you can easily replace whatever foam you have to remove to find the problem.

medora · 08-26-2020, 12:16 PM

Thanks, David. There is a tiny bit of moisture between the floor and the insulation in the area just between the wheel and the water heater casing but nothing more - no real puddles or even drips. We tested the hot water heater with pump ON and water flows into it right now whether we have the levers in winterizing or regular position. If there was an issue with one of the lines into the pump, wouldn’t we see obvious water on the floor around the pump? Would both the issues you describe be fixed from UNDER the Escape (and thru the insulation) rather than ABOVE?

We didn’t have water in the tank on our last drive home - we dumped everything and ran empty to help with gas mileage. So that’s why I’m concerned about some sort of puncture, and if you look carefully at the video it does seems there is a little hole, no?

davidmurphy02 · 08-26-2020, 12:45 PM

Sounds like you are going to have to remove some of the foam insulation to determine just what the issue is.

SWCO · 08-26-2020, 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by medora

Thanks Dave. An update - we thought maybe it was the hot water heater, so we tried shutting it offline. But we can’t. Even in off position, water is still flowing into the hot water tank. It doesn’t matter which way we have the levers set. And the leak continues throughout. I have NO idea what this tells us, but perhaps it’s helpful to someone smarter about these things than we are?

How did you determine that water flows into the hot water tank regardless of the position of the bypass valves? Did you remove the threaded drain/anode rod from the water heater tank?

I ask because some folks conclude that water is in their hot water tank when water comes out of a hot water faucet. If water heater bypass valves have been installed this is not a way to determine if there is water in the water heater tank. Good luck.

steve dunham · 08-26-2020, 02:07 PM

From the photos and videos I believe Iowa Dave is correct
in his diagnosis ( Loose / damaged fitting or clamp)
If the tank was punctured by road debris striking the tank , I would believe there would be more visible damage to the foam in that area
We had a leak on our Casita drain valve which was caused by a crack in the threads of the drain piping where it connected to the tank
We also had a minor water leak in our Escape caused by a loose hose clamp .
In both cases it was a easy repair .
Carefully cutting away the foam around the area of the fresh water drain valve would be my first step .

medora · 08-26-2020, 02:23 PM

https://vimeo.com/451963456/24e68b2ba6

Uh oh. Looks like a burnt hot water heater, correct?
If so - any way to bypass the hot water heater for now? (I guess I’m not sure what the “bypass” levers are for, BTW??)

Would it be possible for me to replace myself? I have replaced our toilet pump ....

Ron in BC · 08-26-2020, 02:49 PM

My hot water tank has a shut off valve on the cold water line right at the tank.

I don't know if ETI has always done this and mine's more recent.

Ron

steve dunham · 08-26-2020, 02:57 PM

I know for my Escape there are 2 valves to bypass the WH and in the trailer’s owners manual there is a diagram showing the proper valve position for bypassing the WH

medora · 08-26-2020, 02:58 PM

Yikes.

We just talked to Dustin at ETI and he confirmed that that is actually our freshwater tank, and it appears that there was an issue with our heating pads (for cold weather camping). Looks like they melted a hole in the tank. Guess we aren’t leaving tomorrow!

Instead I will be looking at repair options. Has anyone ever replaced the freshwater tank? Difficult? I have replaced the toilet pump on our Escape and done other handy things - not sure if this is over my pay grade tho (we have no way to elevate the camper so it may be tough just getting under there - I don’t know what the dimensions are on these things.)

Sigh.

SWCO · 08-26-2020, 03:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

My hot water tank has a shut off valve on the cold water line right at the tank. Ron

Are you sure it is a shut off valve? If it was a factory install it is more likely to be a bypass valve that sends water around the inlet side of the hot water tank, but does not shut off the flow of water through the line. Just guessing.

Iowa Dave · 08-26-2020, 03:22 PM

Well that’s certainly a new one on most of us. If you are reasonably sure that the analysis from Escape is correct you’ll have a significant repair to make. That’s obvious. In this case what I would do depending on the comfort level Of camping I had expected To experience, would be to go get about four 5 gallon water jugs, fill them at home or fill them wherever I was going and head out tomorrow. I would not let the lack of a fresh water system spoil My trip. As a camper you could make do with most amenities without pumped fresh water. But that’s probably just me. Once back I’d start in on disassembly and analysis. I’d borrow a couple floor jacks and some sturdy jack stands If I didn’t already have them. Jack the trailer up, set the chocks and jackstands and slide under there and start working to expose the tank and the offending heat source. I’m pretty good sized and I could slide under our 2010 19 far enough to access a lot of the bottom without jacking the trailer up. You won’t know until you try. Best of luck on this challenge and opportunity, it’s all in the way you look at it.
Iowa Dave

fudge_brownie · 08-26-2020, 03:57 PM

Since that water flow is so close to that drain valve I would clean that area of foam insulation to better inspect, it will have to come off anyway. Maybe Escape already had you do that to arrive at their diagnosis. Dave makes a good observation that you can still camp without water in the tank. You have been spoiled having those heating pads and not doing the cold weather drill those with out have to go through.

You probably can get that next production done and later talk about the experience.

**Donna D.** · 08-26-2020, 04:08 PM

How would you camp if you were tent camping? Go... consider you have a hard-sided tent! Actually going camping this year is difficult due to many factors. Not having water in the tank shouldn't be one of them. Having a problem compounded by NOT being able to go camping would just compound my stress and I wouldn't be thinking through all the possible solutions. I'd rather come home relaxed and then tackle the problem. YMMV

75thRanger · 08-26-2020, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by medora

Yikes.

We just talked to Dustin at ETI and he confirmed that that is actually our freshwater tank, and it appears that there was an issue with our heating pads (for cold weather camping). Looks like they melted a hole in the tank. Guess we aren’t leaving tomorrow!

Instead I will be looking at repair options. Has anyone ever replaced the freshwater tank? Difficult? I have replaced the toilet pump on our Escape and done other handy things - not sure if this is over my pay grade tho (we have no way to elevate the camper so it may be tough just getting under there - I don’t know what the dimensions are on these things.)

You might check out some of that stuff that's constantly on TV ads. Flex Seal I think it is. The guy in the commercial fix's a hole in a water tank easy. Another shows him repairing an RV roof. Of course, we know TV ads are completely trustworthy.

Wouldn't hurt to look at the stuff. www.flexsealproducts.com

Been curious about it for some time now. Anybody used it?

Thane · 08-26-2020, 04:13 PM

Perhaps you could trim off the protruding damage and install a temporary patch. Four years ago I cut a 1.75 inch hole the side of my fresh water tank to clean it and install a tank rinse system. I installed the rinse system with silicone and sheet metal screws so I could take it off if I wanted. It has never leaked.

This link discusses the use of JB Water Weld to fix a cracked tank.

https://arewethere-yet.com/wordyexpl...=1546900110313

The water tanks are about 1/8 inch thick so there is enough grip for a screw. The JB Water Weld and screws may be good enough for the short term.

If you travel empty and only half fill your tank, it may get you through your trip.

Carrying water in portable containers is a great idea, and much easier and quicker.

If you are hooked up to city water then the tank damage doesn’t matter.

Ron in BC · 08-26-2020, 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SWCO

Are you sure it is a shut off valve? If it was a factory install it is more likely to be a bypass valve that sends water around the inlet side of the hot water tank, but does not shut off the flow of water through the line. Just guessing.

It's effectively both. Leaking hot water tank? Turn valve 90*. That stops the pressurized cold water from entering the tank. Keep hot water faucets closed and no cold water can flow backwards to the hot water tank.

I just did it on my trailer to confirm that's the case.

Edit: the more I look at it the more I wonder about it. My tank is sealed so changing the valve prevents more water going into the tank. If my tank was perforated then I'm wondering if the cold water wouldn't just go vertically and in the outlet? Seems like it would require a second valve at the top junction of the red and blue hoses to be a complete by-pass.

Ron

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