Question on 2 way water heater

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by Bob in Bend

Reinforces our decision to go with propane-only water heater.

Yes, all 4 of my Escapes were propane only while others have spent the initial $200 option plus replacements. Too easy to mess up.

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Yes, all 4 of my Escapes were propane only while others have spent the initial $200 option plus replacements. Too easy to mess up.

Both of our trailers, Casita and the Escape, had / have both propane and electric. We use electric every time we stay at a RV site with electric power and have never replaced an electric heater element.

It's not that hard a thing to manage.

[rbryan4]

We have propane only, and it's great if you boondock most of the time like us. But for those times you have shore power it's nice to have hot water ready to go. As with most options, there is no one right choice for all.

[Chotch]

Originally Posted by Bob in Bend

Reinforces our decision to go with propane-only water heater.

🤔 why? When we have electricity we always use electric and always have hot water. When no hook ups we use propane but have to remember to turn it on about 20 minutes before you need it. If your electric element fails, it’s usually your own fault, you can still use the propane with no harm done. I fried the element on mine when I forgot to open the bypass after winterizing. Really missed it until I replaced it, think less than $15.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

We have propane only, and it's great if you boondock most of the time like us. But for those times you have shore power it's nice to have hot water ready to go. As with most options, there is no one right choice for all.

It would be nice to have a "Like" button for posts like this.

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

It would be nice to have a "Like" button for posts like this.

Closest I can get is "Control" "Command" "Space Bar".👍

[MyronL]

In all honesty after 6 years I maybe needed or turned on the hot water a dozen times. Just don't use it. Really never gave any of this a thought. (Until recently.)

Ahh, so the fog is lifting. Though I am hard-sided, boondockers like myself retain a self-reliant self-sufficient tent camper mentality. My Suburban is the SW6D, strictly direct spark ignition, one-way only, has no electrical element to burn out. Just an on/off switch inside the trailer for hot water on demand. Very efficient so long as you don't mind waiting for the lights to go out. I like it.

Actually, I do not like it when that red light goes out because then I can forget I left the hot water system turned on. No reminders. That happened once at home after a trip and I got upset enough about it to install a little green LED on the on/off switch.

This subject coverage has been a welcome refresher course in basic trailer systems.

[azjack]

We have always had two way because we stay at camp grounds with power usually and we hate the sound of someone else that has a very noisy water heater that goes on and off all night.
azjack

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by azjack

we hate the sound of someone else that has a very noisy water heater that goes on and off all night.
azjack

Just turn the water heater off for the night. The water stays hot/warm for a long time.

[steve dunham]

Finished installing a switch & pilot light inside my trailer to control the electric portion of our water heater this morning . In our ten years of owning a FG trailer we have never run our water heater on propane and probably never will . Just personal preference .

[jnfrombigt]

Got a Suburban panel like Myron only mine also has both gas and electric heater switches. Also got some very bright red leds to remind me that one or both of the water heater switches is on plus another for the water pump. For the water pump I'm going to use the pump switch on the SeeLevel tank monitor panel but I'm limited to 7.5 amps on that panel switch so it will control the water pump through a relay, Just waxed the trailer nose and we're headed for the southeast Florida Panhandle in the morning.

[pittendrigh]

I suspect I have a fried 110 water heater element, in my two-way heater.

Someone told me to put my multimeter in 110 ac mode (200 ac volts on the multimeter)
and touch both ends of the element, while plugged in and the heater set to on (with water in system). If bad element I wouldn't get 110 across the element terminals.

Hmm. Where is this element? I suspect I have to twist a screw or two and pull off a metal cover to expose something. Is there a photo of what this looks like? When the element is exposed?

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by pittendrigh

I suspect I have a fried 110 water heater element, in my two-way heater.

Someone told me to put my multimeter in 110 ac mode (200 ac volts on the multimeter)
and touch both ends of the element, while plugged in and the heater set to on (with water in system). If bad element I wouldn't get 110 across the element terminals.

Hmm. Where is this element? I suspect I have to twist a screw or two and pull off a metal cover to expose something. Is there a photo of what this looks like? When the element is exposed?

Here's a video on changing the electric element.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wBwrOO1h_E0

[rbryan4]

The element is covered by the black plastic oval shaped cover toward the bottom left of the picture you posted. In order to get to the terminals, that cover has to be removed (it's normally 3 flathead screws). BUT, you have to remove the gas pipe to get to the cover. The gas pipe can be removed by disconnecting the nut to the far left, and the retaining screw on the right where it goes into the burn chamber. The location of the nut and the retaining screw for that pipe varies slightly depending on the model. Once that gas pipe is out of the way, it's easy to access the electrical element cover.

EDIT: PS - it isn't necessary if you're just testing the element with a multimeter, but if you plan on removing the element, you'll need an element wrench. You'll also need to make sure to drain the water heater, and to have the electrical switch off. Better yet, disconnect from shore power.

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by pittendrigh

I suspect I have a fried 110 water heater element, in my two-way heater.

Someone told me to put my multimeter in 110 ac mode (200 ac volts on the multimeter)
and touch both ends of the element, while plugged in and the heater set to on (with water in system). If bad element I wouldn't get 110 across the element terminals.

Hmm. Where is this element? I suspect I have to twist a screw or two and pull off a metal cover to expose something. Is there a photo of what this looks like? When the element is exposed?

Actually, if the element is bad you will still see 120V across it.

The best test for an element is to shut off the power, set the multimeter on ohms, disconnect one of the leads to the element, and measure. 10 ohms or so is good, infinity or a very high reading is bad.

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by pittendrigh

I suspect I have a fried 110 water heater element, in my two-way heater.

Someone told me to put my multimeter in 110 ac mode (200 ac volts on the multimeter)
and touch both ends of the element, while plugged in and the heater set to on (with water in system). If bad element I wouldn't get 110 across the element terminals.

Hmm. Where is this element? I suspect I have to twist a screw or two and pull off a metal cover to expose something. Is there a photo of what this looks like? When the element is exposed?

You will read 120 VAC at the element whether the element is good or bad
Turn the breaker to the water heater OFF - Test for 120 VAC at the element -
If there is no 120 VAC at the element then set the meter to ohms and check the element for continuity . You should read approx 13 ohms

[Chotch]

Originally Posted by pittendrigh

I suspect I have a fried 110 water heater element, in my two-way heater.

Someone told me to put my multimeter in 110 ac mode (200 ac volts on the multimeter)
and touch both ends of the element, while plugged in and the heater set to on (with water in system). If bad element I wouldn't get 110 across the element terminals.

Hmm. Where is this element? I suspect I have to twist a screw or two and pull off a metal cover to expose something. Is there a photo of what this looks like? When the element is exposed?

It’s under the square plastic cover on the lower left quadrant. When you remove element make sure you drain heater first using the anode. When you remove the electrode the water will drain but a lot will wind up in your trailer. 😳ask me how I know.

[Chotch]

This is like 1/2 hour job, not counting time I spent mopping up spilled water in trailer. See previous post🥴Guaranteed test, remove the 2 wires then use your multi tester to check continuity. No continuity = burnt element. Cost me less than $15.

[pittendrigh]

Deja Vu all over again. I burned my element a year ago. Replaced myself. Worked well several times.

Just drove 4 days. No hot water. Replacing element is easy second time around (two way Suburban heater). So I bought new and replaced. Still no hot water, from gas or electric. Not sure how to trouble shoot. Dang. Left my multi meter at home. May have to buy another.

Breaker is fine. Stove and gas furnace work well.

[Eggscape]

Check to make sure you have not left the tank taps in bypass mode.