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Old 04-24-2017, 02:37 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Jim Bennett View Post
It is also a good idea with a trailer that age to check all the seals around roof penetrations. If attention is needed a bit of cleaning and an application of Dicor Lap Sealant would seal things up tight.
I did take a look at those as well. I know the sealant had come off a few of the rivets on the bathroom vent and I was planning to address that this spring using some ProFlex.

What is the difference between the Dicor Lap Sealant and the ProFlex? When would you choose one over the other?
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Old 04-24-2017, 02:40 PM   #22
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Dicor Lap Sealant is a self leveling compound and does a better job where you want sealant to cover at 1" wide on a joint of some kind. Pretty much an industry go to for RV roof sealant.
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Old 04-24-2017, 02:52 PM   #23
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Dicor Lap Sealant is a self leveling compound and does a better job where you want sealant to cover at 1" wide on a joint of some kind. Pretty much an industry go to for RV roof sealant.
I assume that being self levelling it would only work on the roof and ProFlex would be used on sloped and vertical surfaces. Thanks!
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Old 04-24-2017, 03:29 PM   #24
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Both butyl tape and Proflex are sold at Amazon- https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...rds=butyl+tape
https://www.amazon.com/Geocel-28127V...ywords=proflex
The butyl tape is spread around the frame, like putty, and when the frame is reinstalled and tighened, it oozes out. Take a plastic knife to remove the excess. Escape then installs a bead of Proflex along the top of the windows. The same Proflex can be used anywhere else on the trailer roof to seal any cracks or other places water may enter.
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Old 04-24-2017, 07:34 PM   #25
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Although, I've heard that stripping old window caulking is very time consuming.
And you can imagine how much more time consuming it's going to be after blobbing new caulk on top of old caulk. One layer is easier to get off, than two or three or four!
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Old 05-07-2017, 10:33 PM   #26
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And you can imagine how much more time consuming it's going to be after blobbing new caulk on top of old caulk. One layer is easier to get off, than two or three or four!
That would be awful! I removed the window this morning and took me 3 hours to clean the butyl tape and sealant off the shell and the window frame. It was a combination of scraping, careful use of a razor scraper, paint thinner and washing. The sealant had the consistency of silicone... it was very difficult to remove. The remaining residue on the fibreglass I had to scrape with a credit card and then power buff with 3M Marine Fibreglass Restorer & Wax.
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Old 05-07-2017, 10:48 PM   #27
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Here are some progress photos showing the removal of the window and the goopy butyl putty.

The upper right corner of the window frame is the suspected location of the leak. There is a lot of dirt between the sealant butyl putty.
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DSC_0352.jpg   DSC_0353.jpg   DSC_0354.jpg   DSC_0356.jpg  
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Old 05-07-2017, 10:52 PM   #28
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Photos of the window frame after removal prior to cleaning.
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DSC_0357.jpg   DSC_0358.jpg   DSC_0359.jpg  
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Old 05-07-2017, 10:56 PM   #29
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Shell post-cleaning. The fibreglass has been etched all the way around the window. Is this to provide a surface for the Proflex to adhere?
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Old 05-07-2017, 11:00 PM   #30
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The rust on the frame seems concerning, too....
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Old 05-07-2017, 11:00 PM   #31
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Whew! That was a lot of work. And we all have the "newer" trailers compared to over at FiberglassRV.
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Old 05-07-2017, 11:00 PM   #32
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Last round of photos tonight.

I put the window back in temporarily without the butyl because I ran out of time. Good thing for a stretch of nice weather this week!
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Old 05-07-2017, 11:03 PM   #33
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The rust on the frame seems concerning, too....
Yeah, I am not too sure what to do with it yet. I think it is just surface rust from the fasteners as the window frame appears to be aluminum. It cleaned up all right and isn't visible from inside the unit.
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Old 05-07-2017, 11:15 PM   #34
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Without looking close at the window, it is tough to see the effect of the shrunken rubber seal. I am inclined to think a wee bit of the ProSeal in the gap will do the trick fine.
If the shrunken rubber seal is part of the issue, can it be replaced without the window frame being removed from the trailer?
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Old 05-08-2017, 02:10 AM   #35
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Without seeing it in person, that would be a tough call to make. You could try an email to Escape.
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Old 05-08-2017, 09:00 AM   #36
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Rear Window Leak

Quote:
Originally Posted by msweet View Post
If the shrunken rubber seal is part of the issue, can it be replaced without the window frame being removed from the trailer?


The rubber seal won't be a problem if it shrinks and there is a gap. It has a couple of purposes, when the window is manufactured it holds the glass in place as the adhesive cures between the glass and the frame. Once the window is installed its only job is to make the window look aesthetically pleasing and keep dirt etc. out.
When we changed out glass in these type of units and put the old shrunken rubber strips back in we simply filled the gap with a little black silicone, strictly for looks.


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Old 05-10-2017, 11:25 AM   #37
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Thanks for everyone's advice so far. It had been very helpful!

I set the window in last night with the putty and half tightened all the screws in an alternating pattern. The putty has started to ooze out in some places but it is quite stiff. I don't want to over tighten the screws and risk bending the interior flange.

Any suggestions on how to warm up the butyl putty to make it more pliable? Hair dryer? Unfortunately I can't count on the sun right now and the high temperature for today is only 18 deg C.

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Old 05-10-2017, 02:30 PM   #38
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Sometimes we would put the butyl tape on the window and leave it in the sun for a while then install. Ooze is good that means a good seal.


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Old 05-10-2017, 09:05 PM   #39
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Sometimes we would put the butyl tape on the window and leave it in the sun for a while then install. Ooze is good that means a good seal.


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Doug
I have the screws tightened down and the flanges are touching in most places.

I am left with a fairly large gap across the top of the window. I recall it being much tighter than this when I took the window out. Does this seem reasonable?

Not sure what else I can do other run a bead of Proflex over it.

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Old 05-10-2017, 09:24 PM   #40
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Rear Window Leak

It should suck in tight, was the butyl tape 1/8" x 1". Try tightening the screws a little more and see if it oozes out.


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