Refrigerator AC not working

yeungfeng · 09-04-2022, 02:12 PM

It could be a long 2 weeks without the refrigerator. Propane is not a good option as we will be over 6,500' more than half the time.

Long story short, there's no power to the refrigerator outlet in the outside panel. Breaker hasn't tripped. Any suggestions?

tdf-texas · 09-04-2022, 02:42 PM

You could open the lower outside vent cover enough to run an extension cord through to the fridge plug temporarily. Run the extension cord under the trailer to the outside outlet on the passenger side so It's powered by the trailer.

If you are good with using a voltmeter, you could open up the WFCO electrical panel and check the circuit wiring at the breaker - it could be just a loose screw connection at the breaker.

The other place to check is the outlet at the fridge - I had to replace the one on my trailer that went bad due to moisture degradation. Be sure to use a weatherproof outet to replace it.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...-T0W/202078774

The romex 120v wire run is straight from the breaker in the WFCO to the outlet in the fridge rear so that should not be the problem - it has to be a problem at either/both ends of the wire run.

Centex · 09-04-2022, 02:45 PM

You are running on shore power, not 120VAC via your batteries>inverter, correct?

You have 120VAC at all other outlets and 120VAC appliances (e.g. air conditioner), correct?

Not just relying on the observed breaker lever position, you've manually toggled all breakers to "OFF" then "ON", correct? All breakers in case the one for the reefer is mislabeled.

As mentioned you could run an appropriately rated extension cord from the plug on the reefer to another working outlet for an emergency 'fix'.

Rockhead · 09-04-2022, 02:57 PM

Also Ck the fuses at the back of the refrigerator

yeungfeng · 09-04-2022, 03:47 PM

Thanks for the swift replies!

Shore power, no Air conditioning (wish I did, one day), switched all the breakers.

Outlet at the fridge has no power. So I guess I get to dig into the WFCO electrical panel. Oh boy another learning experience. Never fiddled with it before. I'll read the destructions first and then check for loose wires.

If all else fails, hooking up with external power directly to the refrigerator is a workable solution.

Thanks again!

cpaharley2008 · 09-04-2022, 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yeungfeng

Thanks for the swift replies!

Shore power, no Air conditioning (wish I did, one day), switched all the breakers.

Outlet at the fridge has no power. So I guess I get to dig into the WFCO electrical panel. Oh boy another learning experience. Never fiddled with it before. I'll read the destructions first and then check for loose wires.

If all else fails, hooking up with external power directly to the refrigerator is a workable solution.

Thanks again!

Yes, you could run an extension and plug it in. You should see an outlet in the rear compartment access where it gets it's power.

yeungfeng · 09-04-2022, 05:10 PM

I think TDF hit the nail on the head. The outlet the refrigerator plugs into has no power. No fuses out, but the PE2 indicates a ground being out. Guess I'll go to Homedespot a get a new outlet.

Vermilye · 09-04-2022, 06:58 PM

If the EMS is showing a E2 fault (no ground) it will shut off all 120V AC to the trailer. You can check to see if this is why the receptacle is dead by using the bypass switch on the EMS remote. You might also try plugging a 120V device such as a desk lamp. etc into one of the other receptacles in the trailer. Again, if they are all dead, and you see an E2 error, the EMS is shutting off the power.

If you are plugged into a standard pedestal, check that there is a proper ground at the pedestal, and if you are using an adapter, check that as well. If you are running on a generator, most inverter generators do not tie the neutral to the ground, making the EMS show a open ground fault. It is safe to run the trailer EMS with an E2 code in bypass with a generator, but not when plugged into a 120V pedestal. If you are plugged into a 120V shore power connection, you need to find out why the ground is missing & fix it.

An inexpensive circuit tester is handy for checking both trailer and household receptacles for proper wiring. Again, powering via an inverter generator will fool both the tester & the ES.

yeungfeng · 09-04-2022, 10:22 PM

Well this has turned rather ugly. I replaced the receptacle and now I get a second E2 as well as the PE2. I'm at a loss. I hope this trip doesn't have to be abandoned.

I'm hooked up to a 20 amp 120 line in the garage. I'll get a circuit tester tomorrow. Such a learning experience.

"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" ............ Will Rogers

Ron in BC · 09-05-2022, 12:02 AM

You say propane isn't a good option because of your altitude but have you tried it?

As suggested previously an extension cord to the box in the fridge compartment should get the fridge usable on AC. If it doesn't then it'll probably point the way to the source of the problem.

Ron

yeungfeng · 09-05-2022, 12:19 AM

In the refrigerator manual they say that above 5,500 feet not to use propane. I've read that it will cause the unit to burn out and require a new unit. I'll be 6,00 to 8500 feet, or at least that has been the plan.

I did plug the refrigerator into the power cord and it did not light up in the controls. So that would point too......?

Phlip · 09-05-2022, 12:20 AM

I encountered the same problem, no ac power to the refrigerator, shore power supplied from my garage where I had recently replaced the power outlet, I mistakenly reversed the polarity. After correcting the polarity the fridge in AC mode started working again.

yeungfeng · 09-05-2022, 12:49 AM

Well that's a consideration. But, I have used this same setup several times before, why now? I'll check in the morning. Thanks

Ooshkaboo · 09-05-2022, 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yeungfeng

Well that's a consideration. But, I have used this same setup several times before, why now? I'll check in the morning. Thanks

Try a different outlet in your house, on a different circuit-breaker.

Ron in BC · 09-05-2022, 11:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yeungfeng

In the refrigerator manual they say that above 5,500 feet not to use propane. I've read that it will cause the unit to burn out and require a new unit. I'll be 6,00 to 8500 feet, or at least that has been the plan.

I did plug the refrigerator into the power cord and it did not light up in the controls. So that would point too......?

OK, two things.

One, and I admit that I'm not one to read a manual unless I have to,

, but I haven't read that you'll burn out your fridge if you use it over 5,000'. While I don't have nearly the high altitude experience that folks in areas like Colorado have we've spent a fair amount of time at higher altitude places like Jackson Hole, with an average altitude of 8,000', and never had a problem.

Put a circuit tester on the extension cord. If it reads two orange, then the power source is good. If the fridge lights don't come on then you've pinpointed the problem.

Ron

KirkB · 09-05-2022, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yeungfeng

I did plug the refrigerator into the power cord and it did not light up in the controls. So that would point too......?

Your fridge control panel is powered by 12V DC, not the AC power cord. If the fridge control panel is not working, that points to a 12V problem. Perhaps a 12V fuse on the WFCO?

If the only electrical issue is no 120v AC on the fridge plug, the fridge will light up and work on propane, but show a fault when switched to AC mode.

Is everything else electrical still working? Lights, water pump, fan, etc?

yeungfeng · 09-05-2022, 03:11 PM

Well, I guess none of us is as smart as ail of us. I'll take the lowest spot.

I got the circuit tester and sure enough the garage was the ungrounded source. Moving the power to a different source provided what was lacking.

I had to replace the refrigerator receptacle as the one from Escape did not like being reintroduced to the wires and my aggressive efforts to reinstall those wires

No finding one of the outlets escape uses. But the new one is more firmly attached to the wall.

Happy to say, with everyone's help, the power is on and the refrigerator is finally cooling down. For those who end up reading this searching for an answer about electrical issues, my first advice is to look at your Energy Management System and know what the codes are telling you. AND get a circuit tester, useful at home and on the road. Who knows what your next spot will have for electricity, but if you test it, you will. Plus for those buying a used Escape it might be helpful to know that there is a lag time from turning on the switch for power and power actually being available. About 3 minutes.

Thanks again to everyone who chimed in with their assistance and support. It truly made a big difference for me!

Ron in BC · 09-05-2022, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yeungfeng

I got the circuit tester and sure enough the garage was the ungrounded source. Moving the power to a different source provided what was lacking.

My first rule for trouble shooting is, "never presume anything."

Glad all is well and it's no doubt been a learning experience for others.

Ron

yeungfeng · 09-05-2022, 05:38 PM

One other thing, don't speak too soon.

Circuit is good to the trailer but now I'm back with the gremlins, getting E 2 and PE2 on the EMS.

I've got a 12/3 50' power cord. Is it possible that it's just a little under rated?

I'm guessing here, but checking the outlets would require bypassing the EMS, is this a good idea? Of course I can't check them if there's no power to them. The DC seems all fine, everything works, fan, pump, lights. Refrigerator works on propane and DC.

rubicon327 · 09-05-2022, 06:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by yeungfeng

One other thing, don't speak too soon.

Circuit is good to the trailer but now I'm back with the gremlins, getting E 2 and PE2 on the EMS.

I've got a 12/3 50' power cord. Is it possible that it's just a little under rated?

I'm guessing here, but checking the outlets would require bypassing the EMS, is this a good idea?

Underrated for the load will not cause an E2 open ground error code. Your cord might be bad though. Check the trailer power with another extension cord.

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