Refrigerator Failing To Cool While Driving

[Kountrykamper]

Originally Posted by Mike Lewis

A few days ago I bought a range hood filter that has the metal mesh filtering material. I removed the mesh from its frame, cut it to fit the side vent on the fridge, and fastened it to the vent cover with zipties. The mesh did not affect refrigerator performance when it was stationary as far as I could tell; it worked fine.

Yesterday I traveled from Rockhound State Park near Deming, NM to Hyde Memorial Park near Santa Fe, with the fridge on propane. This was a typical six-hour towing day for me. The ambient temperatures climbed into the mid-to-upper 80s F until I neared my destination. My fridge stayed in the 30s, for the first time ever while towing. It now works! Yippee!

Of course, since I woke up to a snowfall this morning, I probably don't have to worry about fridge temps while I'm here.

Thats great.

[fudge_brownie]

Mike,
I think I know what you used for a baffle, perhaps an image or photo to confirm what it is and help those who may not be familiar with the product.

Based on my personal experiences and the last three years of posts on this topic I have seen a myriad of solutions (mine included) that work for awhile and then suddenly the temperatures are too high. It seems there are numerous variables going on here that we cannot isolate. Keep posting results from your travels, it is great to have solutions.

[Mike Lewis]

The filter material is 1/8" washable mesh; I found it in range hood filters and removed the filtering material from the filter's frame. I believe this is the same material shown in Kountrykamper's post #63 in this thread.

[Kountrykamper]

Originally Posted by Mike Lewis

The filter material is 1/8" washable mesh; I found it in range hood filters and removed the filtering material from the filter's frame. I believe this is the same material shown in Kountrykamper's post #63 in this thread.

It is the same material. Mine just had a frame around it the size of the vent. I had good luck with it for the last 2 years. Seems to slow the air rushing up the chimney and cooling it down reducing the cooling.

[MyronL]

So Mike, Tom, now you've got me wondering if this application will also work with a cut piece of my garden shade cloth, zip tied to the vent.

[elongest]

Found these on Amazon. Might be something to work with if you don't have any old range hoods around.
Eddie
https://www.amazon.com/Duraflow-Filt...+washable+mesh

[fudge_brownie]

Originally Posted by MyronL

So Mike, Tom, now you've got me wondering if this application will also work with a cut piece of my garden shade cloth, zip tied to the vent.

If you look at the very first post in this thread there is a photo of furnace filter as the air block on the lower outside vent of the refrigerator. If you look closely you will note the area toward the right side is darker, some may be because more air infiltrates in that area but I believe some of the filter is showing some sign of heat. Not sure if I would say singed but close to it. I think this particular filter is made from fiberglass, others may use different material.

I like the stove filter best as it will not be affected by the flame.

Several years ago I tried another experiment. I used a piece of closed cell foam cut to fit inside the lower vent cabinet. I would guess this sealed the lower vent to 95%. I was careful to monitor the arrangement while traveling and only drove for about three hours. The experiment did not work. My guess was that there was insufficient air intake for the furnace to ignite or stay ignited. My point is, there has to be a happy medium for how much blockage. It cannot be too much coverage over the vent or too dense. My most success has been with the furnace filter you see pictured covering about half the vents, all on the lower portion of the cover. How that translates to your situation and the density of the stove filter you use is for your experimentation.

[MyronL]

Paul that's a great post, thanks. I'll be looking through the Home Depot aisles for furnace filters.

[float5]

I know someone posted on the fact that a furnace manufacturer and/or maybe those for other applianaces said not to use any cover because of the percentage of the vent it covered being dangerous, I believe. They referred to mesh or wire covers specifically made by other companies for covering their vents, saying not to use them. Someone else here probably knows more.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by float5

I know someone posted on the fact that a furnace manufacturer and/or maybe those for other applianaces said not to use any cover because of the percentage of the vent it covered being dangerous, I believe. They referred to mesh or wire covers specifically made by other companies for covering their vents, saying not to use them. Someone else here probably knows more.

Hi Cathy sorry to be a wet blanket , but I also remember that too. Pat

[float5]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

Hi Cathy sorry to be a wet blanket , but I also remember that too. Pat

Thanks, Pat. I knew someone else would know about that.

[Klem]

FYI our RMD 8555 is working fine after a few mods. Last year we were in St George Utah with 101-108 f for 3 days and frig worked ok. Not sure of the freezer temp because we don't freeze much. Consistently below 40 in the frig was the goal. the berries in the freezer stayed 'hard'. On trips to 4 weeks long we ran it on propane from home and back with no problems.

As some of you remember I did several mods to the original installation and frig but when I got the RMD (double door) I made one mod to it and it all came together.

Now that the frig is not a problem anymore. I also added a second propane heater and now we sleep soundly as it keeps us warm and reduces any condensation to minimum.

Some quick comments, you don’t want to obstruct the wimpy air flow you have now unless you pop it in when driving and then pull it out at the end of the drive. Less air flow and cooling performance will drop.I found adding airflow stabilizes the burner and keeps the temperatures lower around the fins.

My opinion ... Decoupling the thermistor will result in burner damage over time. That’s like moving your home thermostat up and down the wall.

Happy Trails!

[Kountrykamper]

Originally Posted by Klem

My opinion ... Decoupling the thermistor will result in burner damage over time. That’s like moving your home thermostat up and down the wall.

Happy Trails!

Guess we are going to have to disagree on this. Moving your home thermostat has no affect on your system. Only where the temperature is sensed. They are normally place at 60" for viewing not anything to do with sensing. In many cases remote sensors are added to thermostats to sense in different locations such as the return air or a different room. Moving the thermistor will only change where the temperature is sensed. It could and appears to make the unit to run longer cycles and not short cycle and running longer cycles is actually better on almost any piece of equipment rather than shutting if on and off. Bottom line is if dont cool its useless anyway so do what makes it cool.

[fudge_brownie]

Klem,
I understand your reasoning regarding air flow when the trailer was parked, particularly in temps above 90. Did you ever have an issue with the new double door model failing to cool while driving?

It was not clear from your post what that one mod was that solved your issues with the RMD 8555. Could you describe what that was?

Thanks for the insight, it is good to hear from those of you who park your Escape in an oven.