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Old 05-04-2014, 12:24 PM   #1
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Replacing toilet flush valve !?!?!?

On our first trip of the season this year we discovered that we must not have gotten all the water out of our toilet flush valve for winter. When we turned on the water we had a gusher in the bathroom.
Luckily one of the first things we did when we got the 'new to us' Escape was to put in a cut off valve for the water supply to the toilet. So we just closed that valve and are still able to use the commode by manually adding water for the flush.

We ordered a new flush valve kit but we'll darned if we can figure out how to get the water supply line detached from the toilet so we can remove it. We read the manual and we can see what we need to do but there is NO room back there to work! We can barely get our fingers in enough to touch the connector let along turn it.
Are we missing something...anyone have any tricks that worked??

Thanks!
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Old 05-04-2014, 12:31 PM   #2
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Uh-oh, Fran. And so close to the Moab rally. What a wake-up call... I'm going out to fill up our holding tanks today to check - see if I might have the same problem.
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Old 05-04-2014, 12:44 PM   #3
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Uh-oh, Fran. And so close to the Moab rally. What a wake-up call... I'm going out to fill up our holding tanks today to check - see if I might have the same problem.

We discovered it when we took our rig to Silver City about 2 weeks ago. No problem keeping a jug of water in the bathroom. We learned our lesson about the toilet shut off valve in our previous Scamp and did it first thing when we brought our Escape home. Lifesaver.
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Old 05-04-2014, 01:04 PM   #4
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Fran,
I understand it is a job for little hands. When bob had his fail he took it to an rv place, they removed the toilet. Hey, bring the valve along to Moab and we can use it as a how to class. All us know it alls standing around telling you guys how to fix it........what fun!
I just got everything up and running this week and everything worked. We are heading to Mesa Verde tomorrow then on to Moab Thursday. Trying to decide if I should just fill the water tank here or do it along the way as we will be dry in Mesa Verde.
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Old 05-04-2014, 01:09 PM   #5
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Fran,
I understand it is a job for little hands. When bob had his fail he took it to an rv place, they removed the toilet. Hey, bring the valve along to Moab and we can use it as a how to class. All us know it alls standing around telling you guys how to fix it........what fun!
I just got everything up and running this week and everything worked. We are heading to Mesa Verde tomorrow then on to Moab Thursday. Trying to decide if I should just fill the water tank here or do it along the way as we will be dry in Mesa Verde.
Dave
Hey Dave,
Sure we'll bring the valve along...who knows. We'll be heading up to Bluff the night before and will fill up our water tank there before heading to Moab Thursday morning. Looking forward to meeting more NM Escapers!

See you then!
Fran
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Old 05-04-2014, 05:22 PM   #6
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We would love to remove the toilet ...the repair would be easy....but we can't get the water line disconnected in order to do that....grrrrr.
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Old 05-04-2014, 07:02 PM   #7
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We took ours out for the first time this weekend also. We didn't have a gusher but we have water leaking at the base of the toilet. This happened once on our trip home from Chilliwack last fall but the problem went away after a couple days on the road. I have a call in to Reace but I know he is pretty busy right now. Could this be a bad flush valve too?

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Old 05-04-2014, 07:27 PM   #8
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We would love to remove the toilet ...the repair would be easy....but we can't get the water line disconnected in order to do that....grrrrr.
I'd get the right size connector for the pipe size, more pipe, and a valve; then cut the supply line, install the valve, and a bit more pipe to reach the pot.

Much easier to deal with taking the toilet connection out when nothing is connected. Might need a new toilet connector, but I doubt it.
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Old 05-04-2014, 07:30 PM   #9
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We took ours out for the first time this weekend also. We didn't have a gusher but we have water leaking at the base of the toilet. This happened once on our trip home from Chilliwack last fall but the problem went away after a couple days on the road. I have a call in to Reace but I know he is pretty busy right now. Could this be a bad flush valve too?

Thanks
Hard to tell....the flush valve is near the top back of the toilet but if it is a small leak it could drip down and maybe come out at the base... Maybe it is the seal (closet flange seal) that the toilet sits on to connect to the black water tank...it might dry out and leak until it absorbs some moisture....just guessing here.

If you talk to Reace ask him how to disconnect the water supply line from the valve in order to get the toilet out!!?!?!
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Old 05-04-2014, 07:37 PM   #10
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I'd get the right size connector for the pipe size, more pipe, and a valve; then cut the supply line, install the valve, and a bit more pipe to reach the pot.

Much easier to deal with taking the toilet connection out when nothing is connected. Might need a new toilet connector, but I doubt it.

It might come to that.....I have an extension tube for the toilet water supply on order just in case it could be useful....
Amazon.com: Thetford (28962) Waterline Exterior Kit: Automotive

(It says Waterline Exterior Kit but it should say 'Extension' ... Amazon typo)
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Old 05-04-2014, 07:38 PM   #11
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Hard to tell....the flush valve is near the top back of the toilet but if it is a small leak it could drip down and maybe come out at the base... Maybe it is the seal (closet flange seal) that the toilet sits on to connect to the black water tank...it might dry out and leak until it absorbs some moisture....just guessing here.

If you talk to Reace ask him how to disconnect the water supply line from the valve in order to get the toilet out!!?!?!
I will do that. I suppose I will need to figure that out too if I need to reseat the toilet. I have already put the water shutoff on my to do list.
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Old 05-05-2014, 07:22 AM   #12
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When I had to do the same thing, I cut the water line right behind the bath wall, and pulled the toilet out with the flush valve still connected. I just crimped a connector in the water line when I put it back in. Not sure if that is an option on other trailers.
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Old 05-05-2014, 08:29 AM   #13
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When I had to do the same thing, I cut the water line right behind the bath wall, and pulled the toilet out with the flush valve still connected. I just crimped a connector in the water line when I put it back in. Not sure if that is an option on other trailers.
I'm thinking that is what we may end up doing too....
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:40 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Jim Bennett View Post
When I had to do the same thing, I cut the water line right behind the bath wall, and pulled the toilet out with the flush valve still connected. I just crimped a connector in the water line when I put it back in. Not sure if that is an option on other trailers.
This is the solution. The problem developes because ETI connects the valve first and then makes the connection BEHIND the shower wall before installing the cabinetry. When I had the problem last August ETI was concerned they were going to have to remove cabinetry until I suggested cutting and replacing the rigid PEX with flexible like what is around the pump. That is what they did and now supposedly use flex behind the toilet in new builds so it can be moved out enough from the wall to reach the disconnect nut. I will take a picture of mine and post.
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:53 AM   #15
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This is the solution. The problem developes because ETI connects the valve first and then makes the connection BEHIND the shower wall before installing the cabinetry. When I had the problem last August ETI was concerned they were going to have to remove cabinetry until I suggested cutting and replacing the rigid PEX with flexible like what is around the pump. That is what they did and now supposedly use flex behind the toilet in new builds so it can be moved out enough from the wall to reach the disconnect nut. I will take a picture of mine and post.

Thanks...that will be helpful!!
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Old 05-05-2014, 09:55 AM   #16
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It might come to that.....I have an extension tube for the toilet water supply on order just in case it could be useful....
Amazon.com: Thetford (28962) Waterline Exterior Kit: Automotive

(It says Waterline Exterior Kit but it should say 'Extension' ... Amazon typo)
The problem might be with this kit is that the only threaded part is to the valve. The rest are PEX connectors applied with a special tool. If you add to the water line you will need PEX and PEX connectors or a conversion threaded part. Also the luxury of a shut off valve is not possible for 15's and 17's
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Old 05-05-2014, 10:19 AM   #17
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The problem might be with this kit is that the only threaded part is to the valve. The rest are PEX connectors applied with a special tool. If you add to the water line you will need PEX and PEX connectors or a conversion threaded part. Also the luxury of a shut off valve is not possible for 15's and 17's
I think we'll have to wait for the kit to arrive to see if it can be made to work...somehow.
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Old 05-05-2014, 11:58 AM   #18
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The problem might be with this kit is that the only threaded part is to the valve. The rest are PEX connectors applied with a special tool. If you add to the water line you will need PEX and PEX connectors or a conversion threaded part. Also the luxury of a shut off valve is not possible for 15's and 17's
I added a shut off valve in my 17B. It is in the front driver's side storage area under the dinette seat:
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Old 05-05-2014, 12:11 PM   #19
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I added a shut off valve in my 17B. It is in the front driver's side storage area under the dinette seat:
Then that leaves the 15. I will have to see if there is a place.
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Old 05-05-2014, 06:53 PM   #20
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Ok here is a picture looking up from where supply line comes in. Notice that the flex is attached to an elbow going down and then to another elbow and another piece of flex going up to the valve connection. They could not do one piece and confine it to the space, hence the two pieces. Look at "toilet leak" on old posting to see rigid PEX.
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