RM2510 Not working on 120 volt

[smac2]

Good Evening

Our RM2510 fridge is not working on shore power. Halfway through the season last year the fridge was intermittent when plugged into shore power. Meaning that sometimes it would work when switched over from propane to electric at our destination (yes, we travel on propane) and sometimes it would not. So mostly we just used propane as the fridge performed perfectly on propane.

I thought that the 110 volt element was bad. So just before winterizing I did some checking. It appears that the element is good, as it gave readings well within the manufactures specs in ohms for the wattage (although I can not remember what that was). And it also appears that there is no 110 voltage power at the back of the fridge on the heating element side of the control.

Question: Has anyone worked on control portion of their fridge. I believe the problem with this one is somewhere in the contacts on switching GAS/OFF/ELECTRIC. How hard is this to remove? In your opinion is it worth fixing?

At this point I have not even looked at how to remove the fridge if needed.

Thanks in advance for any insight,
Shannon

[tractors1]

Although I have not worked on that model, I did have to replace a relay on a Dometic RM2454 that controlled the AC switch over for the AC heating element.

That was a plug-in relay to a socket mounted on the control board, cost about $25 USD. Did have to pull the control board out to replace the relay.

If you're not into the electronics, I think it would be worth having a check done at an RV/Marine place that services fridges. Lots cheaper than an R&R on the whole fridge.

[08ranger]

We had a similar problem. Halfway through our Yukon trip last June our fridge quit working on 110. We checked all fuses etc. and could not find a problem. So I emailed ETI.

Reach replied and suggested we check if the plug behind the fridge had wiggled out. We removed the outside cover and used a cellphone and a flashlight to take a picture up behind the fridge and could clearly see that the plug wasn't plugged in.

The plug on our 2013 5.0 is quite high up and there wasn't room even for my relatively thin arm to squeeze up and plug it back in. We had to pull the fridge about 2 cm. and then I was able to plug it in......problem solved.

I was very appreciative of Reace's help as we had 2 or 3 emails back and forth to solve this problem.

[Kountrykamper]

Our 115 plug came unplugged twice. There was enough room on ours for me to get my arm up the left side and plug it back in.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Kountrykamper

Our 115 plug came unplugged twice. There was enough room on ours for me to get my arm up the left side and plug it back in.

Also happened to us . Should of lowered plug when we had a chance with refrigerator out . Not pulling it out now . Pat

[Vermilye]

If it is still plugged in & all the connections are good (Use a volt meter to check the 120V terminals at the connector block), it might be the thermostat. I hope not - the refrigerator has to be pulled to replace it. I've had mine done 3 times, twice under warrantee.

[smac2]

Originally Posted by Vermilye

If it is still plugged in & all the connections are good (Use a volt meter to check the 120V terminals at the connector block), it might be the thermostat. I hope not - the refrigerator has to be pulled to replace it. I've had mine done 3 times, twice under warrantee.

Yes it is plugged in. I was wishing it was that easy. I tried unplugging and plugging back in when I first had an issue.
I have traced past the thermostat and I believe it is in the switch.

And thanks all for the suggestions. Most often it is the obvious.

Next question: Are the fridges hard to pull out? Or are they in pretty tight with small clearances? And are fastening and mounting screws easily found?

[currinh]

Originally Posted by smac2

Next question: Are the fridges hard to pull out? Or are they in pretty tight with small clearances? And are fastening and mounting screws easily found?

I recently went through pulling and re-installing our RM2510. Not too bad.

Turn off and disconnect propane, 12V and 120V. There are six screws holding the 'fridge in. From inside the trailer. Remove the door. Take two small screws out, from the bottom, to remove the plastic trim at top of 'fridge. You can then see two screws holding top of the 'fridge. Take these out. There are two screws at the bottom through holes at the bottom of the 'fridge trim. THESE ARE ANGLED! Put in a long screw driver (ours used square drive) angled down to take these out. Note, there are screws straight in through these holes but they release the control panel, leave these alone. [this was the only problem I had] Then from the outside there are two screws removable through the lower 'fridge vent. They hold the frame rails of the 'fridge down.

I found the fridge a loose fit to it's enclosure, way too large. But it slid out easily. I used a hydraulic lift table to pull the 'fridge onto, rotate it 90deg, then slide onto the bed frame.

Worse comes to worse, read the manual, see figure 14.

Hope this helps.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by smac2

Y
Next question: Are the fridges hard to pull out? Or are they in pretty tight with small clearances? And are fastening and mounting screws easily found?

Bit of a crap shoot on that one. The fasteners are easy enough. Mine was almost impossible to remove. I don't know how they shoved it in. Some others, doing mods, that have removed theirs have also reported that they had to struggle to pull it out because of a tight fit at the front face.

I removed a little material before I re-installed mine and it just slid in easily.

Ron

[smac2]

Thanks for the advice!

Looks as if I have something to look forward to on my days off.

Thanks again
Shannon