RMD Exhaust Flue

[Klem]

I installed this chimney. I fabricated the 90 into a chimney (turn your monitor sideways...). Then mounted it on wood. Took it out and added a piece of aluminum. And slid the frig back in. Simply set it even with the wood at the top of the rubber gasket.

[elongest]

2014 E-21C, RMD8555 Frig. factory retrofit.

Here are some pictures through the top and through the screen. I have the same issue with the scorched wood. My exhaust port blows directly on the other tube and is directed to the upper cooling fins and side of the trailer. Can you turn the "T" on the flue in another direction or is it fixed? If it pointed to the outer rear you could easily make a little chimney.
I think I can work from the top through the vent to insert a deflector shield. I may be able to do it through the screen and replace the screen or I might have to R&R the vent base. Things are really tight but at least you know what you are dealing with. Beats pulling the frig. You really don't need to pull the vent to find the problem you can feel a hot spot on the side of the trailer with the frig. operating on gas.
Eddie

[Rossue]

Is pulling the fridge that difficult? From previous posts across many threads it doesn't appear to be that difficult.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Rossue

Is pulling the fridge that difficult? From previous posts across many threads it doesn't appear to be that difficult.

It's not difficult Ross but it is heavy . I think you have a bigger refrigerator then we have . You probably will need two . We had to do a lot of pushing from the back and it probably would be worst now with all the insulation I added . Pat

[Bentnotbroken]

The plywood vent just feels wrong. Rossue's image posting shows the scorch but what else? That dark grey/black grain pattern shouldn't be part of the original plywood. Is that mold? I have read about mold issues in these cavities. Maybe it's time for galvanized/aluminum fridge exhaust cavities.. Must be a reason they don't use wood ducting in homes.

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by janholm

The plywood vent just feels wrong. Rossue's image posting shows the scorch but what else? That dark grey/black grain pattern shouldn't be part of the original plywood. Is that mold? I have read about mold issues in these cavities. Maybe it's time for galvanized/aluminum fridge exhaust cavities.. Must be a reason they don't use wood ducting in homes.

I would agree for areas where high heat is expected. But as far as using plywood for the rest of it, I don't think it's an issue. Part of the reason they don't use wood for ducts is that they move a high volume of air. That doesn't happen on the back of an RV fridge. The air is mostly dead, and any flow comes from the convection of heat from bottom to top.

[padlin]

Thanks for the pictures Eddie, waiting to hear how you make out reaching in there.

FWIW, it's easy sliding the fridge part way out if it helps give you room to work, although I've seen some installs where they used spray foam along the fridge bottom which would need to be cut.

Klem, was your chimney for scorching wood? looks like you had some room in the back at least till you added the plywood piece.

[elongest]

2013 E-21C, RMD8555
Note: The T stack was 250F. The surface of the heat deflector was 180F. The cookie sheet hangs from 3 screws and is secured to the wood wall with 5200. Make sure your rear screen opening is at least 9.5" wide.

I was able to install a heat deflector from the top. I used a 9.5"x14 double layer cookie sheet. Part of this set. https://www.amazon.com/Airbake-Ultra...4+cookie+sheet
You will also need about 1 Sq. ft. of rat wire, 1 tube of red 5200 sealant and 3 #6 or #8 x1/2" or 3/4" screws.
1. Remove 4 screws from top vent cover and remove cover.
2. Cut out wire from rear section of vent base. Cover rough edges with duct tape.
3. Looking at the top surface of the cookie sheet with the lip edge up on your left the 9.5" edge will be the top. When installed the lip will face to the center rear of the trailer. Drill 3 3/16" holes on the 9'5" top edge of the cookie sheet.
4. Attach a piece of safety wire to the center hole. This is to help hold the panel in place and not drop it behind the frig.
(You may want to dry fit first.)
5. Lay he cookie sheet on top of the vent base back side up.
6. Apply globs of 5200. 5 or 6 rows 3 in a row.
7. With the lip to the inside rear of the trailer and the three holes up insert the cookie sheet into the vent hole between the back of the frig and outer wall. (It will be tight.
8. Position the cookie sheet lip to the back wall and screw holes to top of the wood outer wall and install the three screws. Just snug the screws down.
9. Press the cookie sheet against the wall and let 5200 set up. You may have to block it tight to the wall. I did not need to block mine.
10. With a few small screws secure your rat wire in the rear vent opening. Then you can apply sealant to hold wire in place.
11. Install vent top.
Pictures later. Got to go.
Eddie

[AK snowbiker]

Okay, since I had the fridge out I decided I would recess the back wall 1" and be done with it. Glued 1/4" lattice behind the 3/4 stock backed by a 1" X 2" stud. The new back baffle covered with duct steel will seat in the recessed area giving me slightly more than 3/4" of space behind the exhaust.

Kind of up in the air about insulating behind the box, was checking out stone wool or maybe spray foam against the hull, thoughts? Scott

Scott and Lori

[cpaharley2008]

Sorry, I lost one of your pictures when trying to rotate it, you had 2 of the same number.

[thoer]

Originally Posted by Old Skool

Kind of up in the air about insulating behind the box, was checking out stone wool or maybe spray foam against the hull, thoughts? Scott



Scott and Lori

Scott they do make heat resistant spray foam, but (speaking from experiences I'd like to forget) it is very messy job and very hard to get an even consistent depth until you have quite a bit of experience with it. What about foil faced fiberglass duct insulation?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[AK snowbiker]

Thanks Jim, lets try it again, I even had the iPad in portrait mode. I plan on finishing it tomorrow. Off to start cooking. Happy 4th! Scott

Scott and Lori
I like riding bikes!

[AK snowbiker]

Originally Posted by thoer

Scott they do make heat resistant spray foam, but (speaking from experiences I'd like to forget) it is very messy job and very hard to get an even consistent depth until you have quite a bit of experience with it. What about foil faced fiberglass duct insulation?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Aye, spray foam is evil stuff. No matter how careful I am, I end up wearing some for a couple of days. Thinking I'll just leave it as is, to help with heat dispersion and just add additional insulation around the refrigerator. Also just want to add that you may be able to gain more clearance by pulling your refrigerator forward depending on how far back it was initially installed. In our case the four mounting screws were centered on the wall studs. Scott

Scott and Lori

[elongest]

2014 E-21C RMD 8555
Post #28 pictures retro fit pictures. Installing frig. heat shield without pulling the frig.

9 1/4" X14" air filled cookie sheet. It will fit through the vent rear screen opening with the screen removed.

Picture with red tape to protect your arms when the screen is cut out.

Picture with cookie sheet glued to outer wall with 5200 and held at top with 3 screws. The cookie sheet slides into the vent opening behind the frig. Note the turned up lip of the cookie sheet is to the rear bulkhead.

Picture with replacement screen installed, Sealant can be applied to edges if you wish.


The trailer skin outside the frig. is at least 10 degrees cooler (108F) after 4 hours operation using the metal heat shield. Before installing the heat shield trailer skin was 120F after 4 hours operation. The temperature readings were taken inside a shed.
Again these pictures go with post 28.

[AK snowbiker]

Beer time... pretty much done. Just have to run a bead of high temperature silicon around the edges and I'm going to call it good. Just want to thank the fellow member who suggested Imperial Stove Board. Unfortunately I saw the PM to late. I think this will work just fine. Taking into account that the previous piece of very thin plywood was mounted on front of the frame, the new wall is closer to an inch further back. Anyone who had the replacement refrigerator installed by Escape should be fine. If it was installed by another entity you would be wise to take a closer look and check the spacing. Thank you all, for the pictures and suggestions. Happy Fourth of July from the land of the midnight sun, where you can't really see the fireworks 'cause it doesn't get real dark. Scott

Scott and Lori
Fat bikes are fun even in the summer...

[skiman]

Originally Posted by elongest

2013 E-21C, RMD8555
Note: The T stack was 250F. The surface of the heat deflector was 180F. The cookie sheet hangs from 3 screws and is secured to the wood wall with 5200. Make sure your rear screen opening is at least 9.5" wide.

I was able to install a heat deflector from the top. I used a 9.5"x14 double layer cookie sheet. Part of this set. https://www.amazon.com/Airbake-Ultra...4+cookie+sheet
You will also need about 1 Sq. ft. of rat wire, 1 tube of red 5200 sealant and 3 #6 or #8 x1/2" or 3/4" screws.
1. Remove 4 screws from top vent cover and remove cover.
2. Cut out wire from rear section of vent base. Cover rough edges with duct tape.
3. Looking at the top surface of the cookie sheet with the lip edge up on your left the 9.5" edge will be the top. When installed the lip will face to the center rear of the trailer. Drill 3 3/16" holes on the 9'5" top edge of the cookie sheet.
4. Attach a piece of safety wire to the center hole. This is to help hold the panel in place and not drop it behind the frig.
(You may want to dry fit first.)
5. Lay he cookie sheet on top of the vent base back side up.
6. Apply globs of 5200. 5 or 6 rows 3 in a row.
7. With the lip to the inside rear of the trailer and the three holes up insert the cookie sheet into the vent hole between the back of the frig and outer wall. (It will be tight.
8. Position the cookie sheet lip to the back wall and screw holes to top of the wood outer wall and install the three screws. Just snug the screws down.
9. Press the cookie sheet against the wall and let 5200 set up. You may have to block it tight to the wall. I did not need to block mine.
10. With a few small screws secure your rat wire in the rear vent opening. Then you can apply sealant to hold wire in place.
11. Install vent top.
Pictures later. Got to go.
Eddie

Why pick 5200? The big box home improvement carry it? Thanks.

[skiman]

I fired up my Frig today and the side if the trailer is very definitely warm. I looked up from the bottom with an inspection mirror and flashlight and it looks like the flue is up against the baffle. I like the cookie sheet method. I'll get the materials together and open up the top. A pain!

[Greg A]

Does this potentially effect the 19, or just 5.0 and 21?

[fudge_brownie]

Originally Posted by skiman

I fired up my Frig today and the side if the trailer is very definitely warm. I looked up from the bottom with an inspection mirror and flashlight and it looks like the flue is up against the baffle. I like the cookie sheet method. I'll get the materials together and open up the top. A pain!

Is having the flue up against the baffle a dead giveaway that scorching has occurred? I cannot look at the moment as I am camping and do not have access to a ladder. Will I be able to see how close they are through the rat screen?

In the meantime, I did run an infrared thermometer up the skin of the Escape where the flue was located. At the base, with the wide separation between flue and skin, I found temps around 76 degrees, pretty close to ambient. Near the top, i'd guess at about the top of the refrigerator, the skin temperature peaked at 104 degrees and continued the same to the interior of the upper vent cover. The refrigerator has been running for two weeks.

This maybe a better way to measure and check for issues. Thank you for your measurements, it gives a good baseline.

[fudge_brownie]

Only affects those owners who took advantage of an Escape arranged Dometic refrigerator warranty replacement. Owners of a Dometic RML 8550 were able to get them replaced with a Dometic RMD 8555.

No other owners would be affected outside of those who did the warranty exchange.