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Old 05-12-2020, 04:38 PM   #1
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Rotate Power Tongue Jack

When I lower the tailgate on my F150 it hits the jack if I'm hooked up.
I've measured the head of the jack and if I can rotate it 90 degrees the tailgate will lower all the way.
The base plate isn't symmetrical, so I can't just remove the 3 bolts, rotate it and reattach it. So I'm wondering if anyone has tried this.
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Old 05-12-2020, 04:44 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by rotorbudd View Post
When I lower the tailgate on my F150 it hits the jack if I'm hooked up.
I've measured the head of the jack and if I can rotate it 90 degrees the tailgate will lower all the way.
The base plate isn't symmetrical, so I can't just remove the 3 bolts, rotate it and reattach it. So I'm wondering if anyone has tried this.
I did it on our 17 and it worked well. Here is a youtube video on how to do it.

https://youtu.be/GhFyOQ4HDVU
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Old 05-12-2020, 04:51 PM   #3
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Thanks!!
Now all I've got to do is locate my tap and die set under the mountain of junk in my garage!
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Old 05-12-2020, 05:12 PM   #4
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You can always buy another one, that is why I have perhaps 3,4,5 or more of the same tool. One in truck, one in garage, one in house, one I can not find, and so on........
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Old 05-12-2020, 06:12 PM   #5
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You can always buy another one, that is why I have perhaps 3,4,5 or more of the same tool. One in truck, one in garage, one in house, one I can not find, and so on........
And let’s not forget all the ones you’ve loaned to relatives and neighbors that don’t return them or move away to parts unknown
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Old 05-12-2020, 06:13 PM   #6
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I've loaned a lot of tools recently, on the condition that they don't bring them back.
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Old 05-12-2020, 07:09 PM   #7
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And here is another video actually done on an Escape.

https://youtu.be/xeWl1CYH94U
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Old 05-29-2020, 10:25 AM   #8
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Escape should just do this as a standard for all their trailers...everyone stands to one side when operating it anyway. I know I'll be turning mine first thing when I pick up my 21NE.
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Old 05-30-2020, 08:07 AM   #9
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We just rotated my friend’s tongue jack, after viewing these two videos.

Unfortunately, my 2017 21’ Escape has the Atwood tongue jack and can’t be rotated. Still working on a solution.

Fred M.
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Old 05-31-2020, 05:07 AM   #10
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On my F150 4x4 truck the bumper was too high to correctly mount the Fastway weight distribtuion hitch. The tailgate also interfered with the Atwood power jack. I purchased this receiver extension to lower the mounting and it also gave me enough room to lower the tailgate.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 05-31-2020, 10:27 AM   #11
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I also purchased this Hitch Tightner to take any slop out of the connection. I don't know if it was needed or not.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 05-31-2020, 10:37 AM   #12
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I used that for awhile, it is like a band aid approach. Since then I have used a locking hitch pin lock that screws in and tightens your coupler to the hitch.See here https://www.amazon.com/Softride-Tigh...939309&sr=8-54
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Old 05-31-2020, 11:14 AM   #13
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I like that one, Jim. Thanks for posting.
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Old 05-31-2020, 01:47 PM   #14
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Looks like it would clamp the extension receiver together with the standard receiver and provide a locking pin. I can see the advantages in this product.
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Old 05-31-2020, 03:17 PM   #15
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You slide the nut inside the stinger and line it up with a hole and then insert the spindle thru the hole in your receiver and into the nut. Tighten down with a drench and slip the lock on and remove the key. Very secure and no wobbles at all.
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Old 07-20-2022, 03:48 PM   #16
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an oh crap moment

Rotating the head of the power tongue jack on our 2022 21c was supposed to be easy-peasy. Just remove 2 bolts, lift off the motor assembly, tap 2 holes and reinstall. Except that Lippert no longer predrills the 2 holes needed to be able to rotate the jack head. Ok, I say, I’ll just drill a couple of holes and I’ll be good to go. I knew that getting the holes in exactly the right place was critical so, working on one hole at a time, I used a 21/64” drill bit, which just fit through the mounting holes, to find the center on the tube that needed drilling. With the head positioned where I wanted it I drilled just enough to give me a good center. I removed the head, drilled a 1/4” hole and taped 5/16” NC threads. Perfect fit! One more to go. Maybe it was the heat or I was getting tired or the gods just decided to f with me but whatever, I lost focus and the 1/4” hole did not line up with the mounting hole in the jack head. That was my oh crap moment although I used a bit spicier language. Now what do I do? My long suffering wife, hearing the salty language came out, surveyed the situation and said can’t you fill the hole with epoxy or something and try again? (Like Iowa Dave I married way up). JB Weld to the rescue. The original not quick set or putty as the original is much stronger. Just wait 20 minutes or so after mixing for the mix to start firming up before applying and give it a good 24 hours before working. JB Weld is easily filed, drilled and tapped. Now I can open our tailgate while hooked up to the truck with a bit more work than what I had planned on.
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Old 07-20-2022, 11:23 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pstyer View Post
I also purchased this Hitch Tightner to take any slop out of the connection. I don't know if it was needed or not.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Although we have the Fastway E2 WDH when we bought our 21NE, I purchased this "clamp" and from my experience, I like it. It just tightens up the link between the tug and the trailer. Less slop. YEMV.

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Old 07-20-2022, 11:40 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edlynnrich View Post
Rotating the head of the power tongue jack on our 2022 21c was supposed to be easy-peasy. Just remove 2 bolts, lift off the motor assembly, tap 2 holes and reinstall. Except that Lippert no longer predrills the 2 holes needed to be able to rotate the jack head. Ok, I say, I’ll just drill a couple of holes and I’ll be good to go. I knew that getting the holes in exactly the right place was critical so, working on one hole at a time, I used a 21/64” drill bit, which just fit through the mounting holes, to find the center on the tube that needed drilling. With the head positioned where I wanted it I drilled just enough to give me a good center. I removed the head, drilled a 1/4” hole and taped 5/16” NC threads. Perfect fit! One more to go. Maybe it was the heat or I was getting tired or the gods just decided to f with me but whatever, I lost focus and the 1/4” hole did not line up with the mounting hole in the jack head. That was my oh crap moment although I used a bit spicier language. Now what do I do? My long suffering wife, hearing the salty language came out, surveyed the situation and said can’t you fill the hole with epoxy or something and try again? (Like Iowa Dave I married way up). JB Weld to the rescue. The original not quick set or putty as the original is much stronger. Just wait 20 minutes or so after mixing for the mix to start firming up before applying and give it a good 24 hours before working. JB Weld is easily filed, drilled and tapped. Now I can open our tailgate while hooked up to the truck with a bit more work than what I had planned on.

I probably would have found someone who knows how to MIG weld and have them fill that hole with steel, rather than JBWeld. then drill and try over. but if it worked, so be it.
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Old 07-21-2022, 06:35 AM   #19
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I probably would have found someone who knows how to MIG weld and have them fill that hole with steel, rather than JBWeld. then drill and try over. but if it worked, so be it.
For less than $10 for the JB Weld it was worth the chance. I may yet have to get a welder if this patch doesn’t hold. Time will tell…
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Old 08-09-2022, 09:50 PM   #20
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Lippert Jack reposition on my 21C

As with other unfortunate souls without extra set of holes for there jack head, I had to also drill/tap new holes. A caution to those who need to do this as well, be careful about marking/drilling the holes in correct position. Mine didn't line up exactly which required a little 're-tapping' to correct the situation. It eventually finished fine with the head turned and secured with both bolts.

While I was at it I turned the base for the LP tanks around, drilled a couple new holes in the frame to accommodate different base alignment and placed the tanks, regulator and switching indicator now to face backards to the original position. This allows much better ability to remove the tank cover which was a pain due to the tight proximity of the jack and tank cover.
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