RV Antifreeze will not Flow on Hot side of Taps!

[sclifrickson]

Look at the handles. They tell you everything that you need to know. If the handles point away from the HW heater when not in bypass, then they are correct. Like these

If one or both point towards the water heater, then it will act as a shutoff in bypass mode.

[cpaharley2008]

A picture is always worth a 1,000 words, great stuff here guys.

[Kent]

Due to location kind of hard to get clear pictures. Arrows show which way the handles are pointing

[cpaharley2008]

appears your one valve is upside down, one should be facing the outside and one facing the inside....

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Kent

Due to location kind of hard to get clear pictures. Arrows show which way the handles are pointing

As suspected your bottom cold water valve is piped opposite and acting as a shutoff valve in the bypass mode. That valve needs to be spun around with handle facing out. The other valve is correct.

[cpaharley2008]

what if he turned that valve down, would that not open it?

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

what if he turned that valve down, would that not open it?

As my diagram explains and Eddie noted earlier there is no issue when not in bypass because the valve can flow C=>N or N=>C as it doesn't care which way the flow is. The issue is his common port on the lower valve is facing towards the hot water tank. In bypass the flow cannot be N=>B. It has to be C=>B. The common port needs to face towards the trailer plumbing. Remember the handles on these valves only turn 90 degrees. You don't keep turning it to select the path of flow. Now that I see pictures from Kent I'm 100% certain that if the lower valve is spun around 180 degrees with handle facing out the problem is solved.

[padlin]

Kent, If you haven't, drop ETI a note, no telling how many the installer has put in backwards.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Here is an image to help better understand what we are talking about here.
"C" is common, "N" is normal and "B" is bypass

Excellent illustration!

This also shows the valves installed correctly. The drawing in the manual appears to show the valves installed incorrectly, which is unfortunate.
(Edit note: corrected to reflect drawing detail caught by Scott, explained below)

The drawing also shows valves with threaded connections, which would be easy to correct. The actual installations have crimped PEX connections, so it's not going to be so easy. I would probably have someone else fix this at Escape's expense.

Originally Posted by Kent

... I can tell you that both by pass handles are on the same side of lines facing water heater not installed like War Eagle pictures.

So one is definitely installed incorrectly; the photo showing the orientation of the handles in normal operation confirms that.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

Excellent illustration!

I knew you'd like that.

[sclifrickson]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

The drawing in the manual shows the valves installed incorrectly, which is unfortunate.

I don’t think so. That’s what I thought initially, but if you look very closely at the illustration from the manual, you will see that the lower valve is depicted with the handle behind the assembly, which is correct.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by sclifrickson

I don’t think so. That’s what I thought initially, but if you look very closely at the illustration from the manual, you will see that the lower valve is depicted with the handle behind the assembly, which is correct.

Good eyes. Yes it looks like they are trying to depict a handle beyond. The only nuance is when the piping breaks out to the left (when facing back of HW heater) the top valve handle is the one facing back ("hidden") and when the piping breaks out to the right (when facing back of HW heater) the lower valve handle is the one facing back. Of course the diagram doesn't say which way you are facing and gives no other orientation so it is technically correct in both cases.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by sclifrickson

I don’t think so. That’s what I thought initially, but if you look very closely at the illustration from the manual, you will see that the lower valve is depicted with the handle behind the assembly, which is correct.

Ah, yes you're right, it illustrates the rare clear plastic bypass valves!
I missed that.

[Kent]

I have talked to Dave at ETI earlier today and sent him the pictures. Waiting for call back.


While I wait for that the theory is the bottom valve is not correct but if I put in regular position I should get fluid out of both Hot and Cold.


I think I tried that, will go try again. I will put anode back into water heater turn valves out of by-pass mode and see if I get antifreeze out of Hot and Cold.


I still have antifreeze in the fresh water tank.


I will let you know.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Kent

While I wait for that the theory is the bottom valve is not correct but if I put in regular position I should get fluid out of both Hot and Cold.

I think I tried that, will go try again. I will put anode back into water heater turn valves out of by-pass mode and see if I get antifreeze out of Hot and Cold.

I still have antifreeze in the fresh water tank.

You’ll always get antifreeze out of the cold because those lines are piped right from the pump to the outlets and have nothing to do with the valves in question. After putting the valves back to normal position you will only get antifreeze out of the hot side outlets after putting approximately 6 gallons of antifreeze into the hot water heater tank. Not ideal but it will get the job done. You could then put the valves back to bypass, remove the anode and drain the antifreeze out into a bucket and save it for future use. I would then rinse the hot water tank with water through the the anode hole and get the residual out. I’d also rinse the anode.

[Kent]

Well seems I'm able to get antifreeze out of hot side now on all faucets. Given I have no idea at this point when the valve will be fixed. I'm going to go buy more antifreeze and use the hot water tank to winterize the hot side.

I know it is a waste of money, but a lot cheaper then replacing busted valves etc. through out the trailer next spring.

I called and left Dave a message and still waiting his call back.

Thank you, Thank you, Thank you to All for your help!



Well I've gone from this: to this:
Cheers!

[padlin]

See if ETI will pay for the fix.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by padlin

See if ETI will pay for the fix.

...and maybe throw on a brass valve while you’re at it? I’m sure there are adaptors for PEX crimp ends.

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...etails=.photos

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

...and maybe throw on a brass valve while you’re at it? I’m sure there are adaptors for PEX crimp ends.

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...etails=.photos

Those Camco bypass valves are intended to be mounted directly to the water heater ports, assuming that those ports are the usual 1/2" NPT female. A good feature is that if they are installed directly to the heater, it would be difficult to install them the wrong way; a possible challenge (depending on trailer model) might be access, although that would be fine in all models shown in this thread.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Kent

Well seems I'm able to get antifreeze out of hot side now on all faucets. Given I have no idea at this point when the valve will be fixed. I'm going to go buy more antifreeze and use the hot water tank to winterize the hot side.

I know it is a waste of money, but a lot cheaper then replacing busted valves etc. through out the trailer next spring.

Just a follow up on what I said above about flipping valves back to bypass and rinsing out tank. At a minimum you want to plug the tank without the anode if you intend to leave antifreeze in the hot water heater.

Directly from Suburban manual:
“If your water heater plumbing system is equipped with a bypass kit, use it to close off the water heater, drain the water heater completely and leave the water heater closed off (out of the system) in the bypass position particularly if you are introducing antifreeze into the plumbing system. Antifreeze can be very corrosive to the anode rod creating premature failure and heavy sediment in the tank. If the plumbing system is not equipped with a bypass kit, and you intend to winterize by adding antifreeze to the system, remove the anode rod (storing it for the winter) and replace it with a 3/4" drain plug.”