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Old 05-10-2019, 10:40 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sagebrush View Post
This is the second time for us, so need a solution that works. Any help appreciated!

I used to roll up the strap (used to open and close the awning) near the front, where the open/close switch is located. But, then I saw if flailing around as I drove. If the strap is close enough it could hit the switch, allowing the awning to unfurl.
I now keep that strap in the centre of the awning so it can't possibly reach the switch.
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Old 05-10-2019, 11:05 AM   #22
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These do not work, look at my pictures, these straps are still attached and mine came unfurled...


Wow Jim that must have stripped everything out of your awnings locking mechanism.
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Old 05-10-2019, 11:15 AM   #23
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Wow Jim that must have stripped everything out of your awnings locking mechanism.
Another reason to get the power awning..........
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Old 05-10-2019, 11:16 AM   #24
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You're supposed to put the awning away before hitting the freeway on-ramp.
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Old 05-10-2019, 03:33 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by huskersteffy View Post
Keith suggested mounting it on the front of the main support instead of the side. I think this will work since there are two pieces of metal to screw into and the slider (seen in your pic) has a good 1/8" gap. I think I will get shorter screws or nip off the ones that came with the lock.
Interested in the awning lock . Did you ever get yours installed ? At the website it was mentioned power awning also can unroll we have been using straps for 40 years plus but this looks like a great idea . Pat
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Old 05-10-2019, 03:46 PM   #26
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Did you reel lever get flipped to the open position?
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Old 05-10-2019, 05:01 PM   #27
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I installed this pin lock to keep the awning from unraveling while on the road
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Old 05-10-2019, 05:15 PM   #28
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Keith Williams

RV Awning Travel Lock Facts


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Old 05-10-2019, 06:03 PM   #29
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I installed this pin lock to keep the awning from unraveling while on the road
After reading your other post on the lock I got one. I'm glad you reposted the picture. I still haven't picked up my trailer so I haven't had anything to reference. It appears you installed one of the supplied screws in a hole you drilled yourself. Also, have you drilled a hole yet in the awning roller cap? I already have a long list of tools I'm taking for the trailer pick up but want to make sure I don't forget anything. Thanks jn
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Old 05-10-2019, 06:25 PM   #30
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Yes I have drilled the hole took about 10 secs to drill
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Old 05-10-2019, 09:04 PM   #31
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Interested in the awning lock . Did you ever get yours installed ? At the website it was mentioned power awning also can unroll we have been using straps for 40 years plus but this looks like a great idea . Pat
Anyone install awning lock on manual Classic trailer ?Pat
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Old 05-10-2019, 10:20 PM   #32
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Hi Pat- I am trying yet got stumped and asked AK Snowboarder about any tips as I could not line it up with roller cap. Seems like Oldtimer drilled into the roller itself so that could work. Haven't heard anything from Scott yet.
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Old 05-11-2019, 01:03 AM   #33
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Hi Pat- I am trying yet got stumped and asked AK Snowboarder about any tips as I could not line it up with roller cap. Seems like Oldtimer drilled into the roller itself so that could work. Haven't heard anything from Scott yet.
Hi Ross . Ok ,when you get something let me know . Do you think the website could help ? Pat
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Old 05-11-2019, 07:54 AM   #34
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The cap is screwed to the roller. I installed this lock after having to replace our awning after the locking mechanism failed,broken clip. After seeing that the cap was screwed to the roller, I chose to drill the roller directly so that the pin would be inserted directly into the roller for maximum retaining. I always seem to drift away from instruction lol. I’m a retired facilities supervisor of 20 yrs. Can’t keep from tinker with things
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Old 05-11-2019, 09:13 AM   #35
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David- thanks for clarifying; not sure if the Gen2 design makes a difference, however drilling into the roller is my only choice as the bracket attached to the trailer does not allow me to align the RV lock's bracket back far enough to line up with cap.
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Old 05-11-2019, 10:58 AM   #36
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Here is an email from Keith:

1. Mount the lock to the side of the arm instead of to the rear of the rafter.
I just thought of this and it is probably the best and easiest solution of all! Consider this: Remove the nuts holding the mounting plate to the lock body. Flip the plate over so the three holes are now on the opposite side of the lock body. Replace the screws.
Mount the lock to the edge of the arm, positioned so the locking pin is pointed right at the center of the roller tube's long axis. The mounting surface is about 1.5 inches from the center of the locking pin. You could shim it out a bit further if necessary.
I have moved this to the top because it is the easiest to implement, potentially.


This is the method that I ended up using. Instead of using the supplied screws I used a mending plate for the shim and short bolts and shallow lock nuts with washers. You need to make sure that you have enough clearance for the awning arms to slide past the lock. I would post pictures but our trailer is down in Washington. Hope this helps. Scott



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Old 05-11-2019, 11:24 AM   #37
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The reason I mounted mine where I did as it is a stronger mounting point and is out of the way
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Old 05-11-2019, 12:11 PM   #38
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The reason I mounted mine where I did as it is a stronger mounting point and is out of the way
Nice! I might have to revisit mounting ours. Putting the pin into the roller tube is certainly more “bulletproof”. Mounting the lock on the bracket gets it out the way of the awning arms and is more secure.

Don’t have the trailer up in Alaska at the moment, but if I remember correctly the mounting brackets on the “classics” stick out further. Just going off memory here. Scott


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Old 05-19-2019, 01:43 PM   #39
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Awning Lock Install on 2016 - 21' w/Manual Awning

I finally got my awning lock installed.

Save Your RV Awning with an RV Awning Travel Lock!

I had to modify it to fit the camper by flipping the plunger 180 Degrees. I have a friend who does metal work and I was going to have him chop and then re-weld. However, he had the great idea to just cut another notch and then flip the insides. You can see what I mean from the 1st pic. The "stock" lock from the inventor/manufacturer (Keith) would have the plunger pointing downward in the 1st pic. If you contact Keith, he might make you a "special" since would pretty easy for him to make the plunger point the other way.

Be sure to swap out the 3/4" deep self-threaded screws for some 1/2" deep ones so they will miss the slide post when it is raised.
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Old 05-19-2019, 02:19 PM   #40
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Simple question, why are you mounting it on the rear support vs the front? Isn't there more force at the front of the awning?
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