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Old 03-20-2018, 12:34 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iowa Dave View Post
Here are a couple photos of the correct Dexter seal for our 2013 Escape 21 axles. It is an 010-019-00 Dexter Fusion Inc.
It appears that the manufacturer is Fusion Inc.; they likely make them for Dexter.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Iowa Dave View Post
It has two separate seal faces an inner and an outer.
Yep, as Eddie mentioned, the usual term for these is a double lip seal... traditionally, I think trailer hub rear seals have been single-lip.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Iowa Dave View Post
I think at this time, there’s just one seal for both.
I believe that Dexter used single-lip seals, switched to double lip for the E-Z Lube, and has probably now standardized on the double lip even without E-Z Lube. The extra sealing certainly can't hurt, as long as there is enough room in the hub recess for it.

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There is no spring in this seal.
Isn't that a spring around the outside of the rubber, visible at the top in the second photo?
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Old 03-20-2018, 09:39 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
It appears that the manufacturer is Fusion Inc.; they likely make them for Dexter.


Yep, as Eddie mentioned, the usual term for these is a double lip seal... traditionally, I think trailer hub rear seals have been single-lip.


I believe that Dexter used single-lip seals, switched to double lip for the E-Z Lube, and has probably now standardized on the double lip even without E-Z Lube. The extra sealing certainly can't hurt, as long as there is enough room in the hub recess for it.


Isn't that a spring around the outside of the rubber, visible at the top in the second photo?
It isn’t vanity that keeps me from wearing glasses, it’s my inability to remember where I put them last. I just went down and looked and yes there is a spring. It’s tucked in there pretty short and I did not notice it. I think it’s finer wire than I have seen on some seals but it is there, probably mostly to maintain the circular integrity while not installed. Really, these seals are pretty nice for what you get for about two dollars compared to some pieces of camper plastic you worry about breaking just getting it out of the plastic packaging.
Sharp eyes of the day award to Brian BP.
Iowa Dave


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Old 03-20-2018, 04:12 PM   #43
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It isn’t vanity that keeps me from wearing glasses, it’s my inability to remember where I put them last...

That's the advantage of being so near-sighted that I'm forced to find my glasses before going anywhere... can't leave them behind.

I just wanted to make sure that I understood what I was seeing. Thanks
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Old 03-20-2018, 06:10 PM   #44
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I need help to confirm the Brake size for a 2500 lbs axle. According to Dexter Axle Resource Libray, it shows that 10" x 1 1/2" brake is the size. The part # is K23-472 00/K23-473-00 for LH/RH electric drum brakes. Is this the right brake replacement for Escape 19 Ft. Thanks.

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Old 03-20-2018, 11:42 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tonny LR View Post
I need help to confirm the Brake size for a 2500 lbs axle. According to Dexter Axle Resource Libray, it shows that 10" x 1 1/2" brake is the size. The part # is K23-472 00/K23-473-00 for LH/RH electric drum brakes. Is this the right brake replacement for Escape 19 Ft.
Yes. The 2500 pound capacity units are still the Torflex #10, like those of other ratings up to 3500 pounds. The reduced capacity is due to less rubber, to soften the springing to a level better suited to the trailer's weight; the brakes and hubs are not changed by the custom rating. 10" x 1 1/2" is the size for all Torflex #10 drum brakes.

Those part numbers are for the standard electric brake assemblies. If you want Nev-R-Adjust, the part # is K23-476-00/K23-477-00 for LH/RH

10" Dexter brakes
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Old 03-21-2018, 12:29 PM   #46
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Brain B-P,
Thank you for verifying the brake replacement info.

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Old 06-04-2018, 04:46 AM   #47
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Off shore bearings

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Originally Posted by Iowa Dave View Post
I replaced an outer bearing on the 19. It was just a little on the loose side so I thought why not. It was a Sunday so I foolishly went to a NAPA store that was open. I was a bearing made in Taiwan and cost about $ 11.50. All the bearings were good on the 21 when I checked them but I had one slightly leaky seal. That’s why I bought 5. After my seal trip, I stopped at Midwest Wheel one day because I needed some bearing grease. I asked about the outer bearing and an inner bearing which is quite a bit larger. Bought genuine Timkens, made in USA for $8 for the small one and $11 for the inner. Have them as spares now. Quality is economy.
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Old 01-21-2019, 07:12 AM   #48
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Owilly; not to take sides, but I think these axels are purchased by the hundreds and come pre set. ETI cannot be taking them apart to make sure they were packaged correctly (I'm sure they were). It sounds like bearings got out of adjustment. I do know that after the 1st 500 or 1000 miles (whatever the recommendation is) bearing have to be tightened up...
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Old 01-21-2019, 08:39 AM   #49
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It sounds like bearings got out of adjustment. I do know that after the 1st 500 or 1000 miles (whatever the recommendation is) bearing have to be tightened up...
I have heard of lug nut torque being checked and a brake adjustment, but nothing about the bearings until a suggested repack.
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Old 01-21-2019, 01:14 PM   #50
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Dave: Just viewed a 7 minute video from Drexel and no mention of rechecking bearing after so many miles. So shame on me for saying so... The only other reason I can see for grease being in the break chamber is over greasing or no sealant on the outside of the grease seals when they were 1st installed. (therefore warranty) But again, being mass produced little things like a dab of sealant can Easley shut a line down. So on my 2nd attempt to voice my 2cts "I think it was over greased"
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Old 01-21-2019, 04:34 PM   #51
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... So on my 2nd attempt to voice my 2cts "I think it was over greased"
It is not possible to over-grease an E-Z Lube hub, since all excess grease just comes out the front. On the other hand, it is easy to improperly pump grease into an E-Z Lube hub, and that's a common problem.
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Old 01-21-2019, 08:37 PM   #52
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Brian, is that what the rubber is around the grease fitting, a kind of relief? I'm learning! Do I remember grease fittings on the metal bearing cap? Where they were recessed in away from hazards? I remember guys always messing with them. Always something with them! I can see how one can improperly grease them with a pneumatic gun... Too much Too fast!
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Old 01-21-2019, 10:39 PM   #53
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Brian, is that what the rubber is around the grease fitting, a kind of relief? I'm learning! Do I remember grease fittings on the metal bearing cap? Where they were recessed in away from hazards?
An E-Z Lube axle comes with a grease cap that has a rubber plug in it, so you can flush the grease without removing the cap (just the plug). Once you take the plug out, you can see the fitting inside; when you pump grease into the fitting the extra oozes out around the end of the spindle, around the fitting.

There is no relief valve for the grease - it is not held under pressure in any way, it just sits in the hub like a non-E-Z lube hub, protected from contamination and prevented from leading onto the wheel by the grease cap (again like any conventional hub).
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Old 01-22-2019, 05:20 AM   #54
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Thank you for explaining that. I kind of understood the idea, just not able to put it into words that well
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Old 01-22-2019, 06:34 AM   #55
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1st and only time I greased the Escape using the E-Z Lube fitting I over did it. Even after cleaning under the rubber plug it looked like pin art on my tires for months. But none got on the brakes.
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Old 01-22-2019, 06:38 AM   #56
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Always best to err on less vs more....with these.
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Old 01-22-2019, 07:05 AM   #57
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Easy to wash off v break job!
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Old 01-22-2019, 07:06 AM   #58
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For sure!
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Old 02-01-2019, 08:24 PM   #59
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Bring your own Dexter Seals

If you are like me, and do not have the skills to service your own bearings, I recommend purchasing the proper Dexter Grease Seals in advance. To be safe, it wouldn’t hurt to pre-purchase the inner and outer bearings and races also, just to have them available.
We just had our bearings packed for the third time, each 10k miles. Our tire and wheel “professional “ retired after the second service, so this time we took our trailer to a different, very well respected tire and wheel shop. This time, based on this timely bearing thread, I pre-purchased all the proper parts.
I waited while the work was done, and the mechanic reported some very disappointing news. The bearings were in good shape and needed only new grease and the new seals, however the two passenger side seals were original and had never been replaced. It appeared my first mechanic had not repacked the bearings or replaced the seals, but had merely used the E-Z Lube feature to pump in fresh grease.The two drivers side seals had been replaced, but with an inferior aftermarket brand.

So, Lesson Learned! If you are skilled, do it yourself. If you pay to have it done, provide your own authentic Dexter parts. Either watch them do the work, or ask for the old parts as verification. Fortunately for us, we suffered no adverse results, only a loss of trust!
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Old 02-01-2019, 08:40 PM   #60
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Well Steve, good thing trust was all that was lost. Imagine a wheel, tire, hub, break and worst case an axel. I have a hard time trusting because I hear stories such as yours and think " did they do what they said they would" To most people, put 2 oils next to each other and you cant tell the best from the worst...
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