Servicing your Dexter Axle brakes or bearings

[Iowa Dave]

It’s always disheartening to hear about not getting what somebody paid for and even maddening when it’s personal. When my dad and I worked in the Standard oil station, we made it a practice provide the customer with the used parts. My dad was a tanker during WWII and when they tuned anything up they kept the old parts if they were working as a spare repair part. I still do the same. We would give the customer the spark plugs, points and condenser from a fall tuneup in the original boxes the new ones came in. People would say they could never install the parts even in a jam. My dad would say if your in a real jam, you’ll figure it out. Gap the points with a worn out dime! There’s no mystery to brakes, bearings, seals any of that. Safety is job one, after that always practice the law of the rookie “only do one side at a time.” That’s my belief. P.S. harbor freight has the 1/2 inch torque wrenches this month for $9.99.

Iowa Dave

[Donna D.]

You're fortunate if you find a place that's willing to use parts you bought. Most places won't. Usually because of any kind of warranty for the work they've done and they can't/won't put any guarantee on parts purchased elsewhere.

Where I take Ten Forward for service, they use Timken bearings and seals and give me the old back in a plastic bag. The last time, said everything was fine, but since I wanted those replaced... here and handed them to me. Can't reuse the seals, but I've kept the bearings because there truly isn't anything wrong with them. I may fill them with Lucas Red 'n Tacky and seal them in a baggy... and carry them along in the trailer for 'emergency's.'

[Iowa Dave]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

You're fortunate if you find a place that's willing to use parts you bought. Most places won't. Usually because of any kind of warranty for the work they've done and they can't/won't put any guarantee on parts purchased elsewhere.

Where I take Ten Forward for service, they use Timken bearings and seals and give me the old back in a plastic bag. The last time, said everything was fine, but since I wanted those replaced... here and handed them to me. Can't reuse the seals, but I've kept the bearings because there truly isn't anything wrong with them. I may fill them with Lucas Red 'n Tacky and seal them in a baggy... and carry them along in the trailer for 'emergency's.'

Buy a couple seals and you’re good to go.

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

Buy a couple seals and you’re good to go.

Try Amazon.com

[Iowa Dave]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

Try Amazon.com

Glenn
You otter be ashamed of yourself.
Dave

[Rossue]

Originally Posted by Steve Clark

The bearings were in good shape and needed only new grease and the new seals, however the two passenger side seals were original and had never been replaced. It appeared my first mechanic had not repacked the bearings or replaced the seals, but had merely used the E-Z Lube feature to pump in fresh grease.The two drivers side seals had been replaced, but with an inferior aftermarket brand.

So, Lesson Learned! If you are skilled, do it yourself. If you pay to have it done, provide your own authentic Dexter parts. Either watch them do the work, or ask for the old parts as verification. Fortunately for us, we suffered no adverse results, only a loss of trust!

No doubt Steve and I learned that lesson cheaply fortunately when after goading from family I delegated the service. They didn't properly tighten the castle nut and almost lost the wheel it was so loose. Did the last service in March and already contemplating the next one.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Rossue

They didn't properly tighten the castle nut and almost lost the wheel it was so loose.

That wouldn't be from failure to tighten properly, since a properly installed spindle nut is not tight. They must have missed the retainer (cotter pin, bent washer tab, or whatever is used on this particular axle).

[Steve Clark]

Thanks, guys and gals for not being too hard on me. It feels foolish to be taken advantage of.......but live and learn!

[Rossue]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

That wouldn't be from failure to tighten properly, since a properly installed spindle nut is not tight. They must have missed the retainer (cotter pin, bent washer tab, or whatever is used on this particular axle).

Don't remember exactly why, however when on a trip two years ago I needed to check brake adjustment. One wheel while jacked up had so much lateral wobble I thought lug nuts were loose. Wasn't that however and found the spindle(not castle) nut backed way off. Retainer was on- they were just evidently in such a hurry they didn't properly tighten.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Rossue

Don't remember exactly why, however when on a trip two years ago I needed to check brake adjustment. One wheel while jacked up had so much lateral wobble I thought lug nuts were loose. Wasn't that however and found the spindle(not castle) nut backed way off. Retainer was on- they were just evidently in such a hurry they didn't properly tighten.

So it wasn't set properly, rather than not tightened enough or not retained.

The usual reason for this is simple incompetence. The bearings must be seated properly, and only then the spindle nut is adjusted. Someone who just puts the nut on and adjusts its position without seating the bearings can easily leave the nut in a wildly incorrect position; it hasn't backed off from where it was, it was just never correctly installed.

[Iowa Dave]

The washer that goes outside of the outer bearing fits over the spindle and since the hole in the middle is D shaped, only goes on one way. When you put the washer on and push it to contact the bearing, it can hang up a little crooked on the spindle. To make sure it goes on straight use your thumb and first two fingers in a triangle to push it in evenly. You’ll see a little grease push out when contact is made. Then I like to use a socket to fully seat the washer and bearing to the bearing cup. You can tighten it down pretty tight. Then back it off and make sure the drum spins freely. Use your Finger to put about 5 to 8 foot pounds torque on the nut and then install the spring clip or cotter key if a Castellated nut is used. That’s how I do it. My first trip of the year is about 250 miles round trip. When I get back, I check the seating again.
Haven’t had a problem before or since.
Iowa Dave

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

Then I like to use a socket to fully seat the washer and bearing to the bearing cup. You can tighten it down pretty tight.

That's the step of seating the bearings (inner and outer). Dexter says to do this, but to rotate the hub while tightening the nut.

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

Then back it off and make sure the drum spins freely. Use your Finger to put about 5 to 8 foot pounds torque on the nut and then install the spring clip or cotter key if a Castellated nut is used.

That's adjusting the nut for the operating position. Not tight!

[Kingbiscuit]

What grease is recommended for the wheel bearings?

I bought an inexpensive small grease gun at harbor freight and a package of grease tubes but the grease doesn't specifically say for wheel bearings. It's a general purpose grease.

[Iowa Dave]

I have had good experience with Lucas Red and tacky and also Lucas X-tra Heavy duty grease. Both are certified for wheel bearings . The heavy duty is a little messy when it’s hot or left in the sun for any length of time. If my bride is not paying close attention I’ll put the grease in the refrigerator when I go to bed, get up before she does and look industrious when I’m packing bearings first thing the morning with stiff grease. I buy grease at the auto parts store.
Iowa “grease monkey” Dave

[padlin]

I use the red too.

[Rossue]

Originally Posted by Kingbiscuit

What grease is recommended for the wheel bearings?

I bought an inexpensive small grease gun at harbor freight and a package of grease tubes but the grease doesn't specifically say for wheel bearings. It's a general purpose grease.

The Harbor Freight grease is probably not suitable. Dexter publishes a list, however you want a Lithium complex #2. High temperature version is what I've been using.

[lzcamper]

Does anyone know what model axle a 2011 5.0 SA has? Also, what is the proper way to jack up a single axle trailer to perform bearing and brake maintenance?

Rick

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by lzcamper

Does anyone know what model axle a 2011 5.0 SA has? Also, what is the proper way to jack up a single axle trailer to perform bearing and brake maintenance?

Rick

I believe that ETI has always used Dexter Torflex #10 axles in both single and dual axle applications. They are 3500# axles but can be derated based on the rubber in certain circumstances. The only exception to the torsion design is some early 5.0 TA's had leaf spring suspensions. ETI has always recommended jacking under the axle connection bracket and not on the axle tube or frame.

[hcf]

I searched the forums, and haven't seen that anyone else has had this problem. The zerk fitting is in the center of a castle nut, that protudes to an extent that my "standard grease gun" (per the Dexter owners manual) coupler cannot capture the fitting. It impacts the castle nut before it can lock on.



The coupler is 5/8" OD. I'm not having much luck finding a much smaller one, but I'm going to pick up a "narrow type" coupler and see if it will mate.

At first I thought perhaps the axle was assembled incorrectly, so the zerk is supposed to stick out from the castle nut. However, Dexter's manual has a diagram clearly showing the zerk recessed in the castle nut.

Curious I seem to be the only one who's run into this?

[padlin]

Not to be a jerk, but I'd suggest you not use the EZ-Lube and have the bearing checked and repacked every 12k or 2 years.

I used the EZ-Lube once and had pin art on my tires for the rest of the summer. Even though it comes on campers, it's really for boat trailers that get dunked in the water.

*** Not everyone agrees with this***