Shore Power and Inverter Question

[DT6]

We have not used shore power or hookups much in the past year or two, and I do not recall having to turn the inverter "ON" when connected to shore power. But in our first stop with hookups with our new 21C we are having to run the inverter whenever we want to use the 120V outlets (microwave for example).

Is this standard? I would have thought that when you hookup to shore power it would bypass the inverter, so no need to run it. Am I missing something, or do I just run the inverter all the time?

Thanks!

[Rossue]

No need for inverter while plugged into shore power. What is confusing at first for some is with the Factory EMS it take a good three minutes before AC outlets ar live.

[DT6]

Thank you for the suggestion. I shut off the inverter and 30 minutes later, still no power to the outlets.

The fridge seems to be the only thing running on 120. The indicator on the fridge shows "Auto" and a "plug" symbol next to it. But my computer charger, microwave and CPAP machine will not run unless the inverter is on.

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by DT6

Thank you for the suggestion. I shut off the inverter and 30 minutes later, still no power to the outlets.

The fridge seems to be the only thing running on 120. The indicator on the fridge shows "Auto" and a "plug" symbol next to it. But my computer charger, microwave and CPAP machine will not run unless the inverter is on.

And that's because they're running off the batteries. Reset the power at the pedestal. Turn all the switches to OFF, unplug. Wait a couple of minutes. Plug back in and turn the power back on. It will take a couple of minutes for the EMS to run through its tests before you should have power to all the plugs. IF that doesn't work, do you have a tester to test the power pedestal?

[KirkB]

It could be the AC breaker on the WFCO converter for the AC circuit to the transfer switch.

[Radar1]

Does the EMS show a voltage readout confirming you have power from the pole?

[DT6]

Update - So I tried Donna's suggestion and unplugged and reset it (twice). No luck. I don't have a 30A plug tester, but am going to go by the camp office and see if they have one or will send someone out to inspect it.

It does not explain why I can run the heat strips off my Dometic AC but nothing else. You can only run the AC unit (even the power strips) when you have shore power of some type (I confirmed this w/Escape a few month ago about the heat strips).

The readout looks normal (I think). Here is the readout sequence: E 0; 118; 2 A; 60 H. EMS is set to "Normal Use".

We are getting by easily enough, but it would be nice to figure this out when we are connected to 30A. I'll post after the office has a chance to test the outlet. As it is Christmas Day, it may be until tomorrow.

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone.

[wackyburggeezer]

Since you have an inverter, I believe that you should have a couple of circuit breakers associated with the transfer switch, located near your EMS. Try moving both breakers to the off position, then back to the on position. Do the same with the circuit breakers in the power distribution panel. Operate each circuit breaker handle, making sure that the handle moves all the way to the off position, then all the way to the on position. You should be able to insert the probe tips of your multimeter into the openings in the 30 amp 120 volt pedestal receptacle. Make sure that you have the range set for AC volts, not millivolts and that the probe cables are plugged into the multimeter correct ports for voltage and resistance, NOT AMPS!

[Ooshkaboo]

Originally Posted by DT6

Update - So I tried Donna's suggestion and unplugged and reset it (twice). No luck. I don't have a 30A plug tester, but am going to go by the camp office and see if they have one or will send someone out to inspect it.

It does not explain why I can run the heat strips off my Dometic AC but nothing else. You can only run the AC unit (even the power strips) when you have shore power of some type (I confirmed this w/Escape a few month ago about the heat strips).

The readout looks normal (I think). Here is the readout sequence: E 0; 118; 2 A; 60 H. EMS is set to "Normal Use".

We are getting by easily enough, but it would be nice to figure this out when we are connected to 30A. I'll post after the office has a chance to test the outlet. As it is Christmas Day, it may be until tomorrow.

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone.

Try this, flip all of your breakers off, all the way to the off position hearing the click, then back on.
Then give it the 3 minutes.
Just as home breakers can look as though they haven’t been triggered, they don’t always click over to the total off position. Giving the false impression of still being on…

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by wackyburggeezer

Since you have an inverter, I believe that you should have a couple of circuit breakers associated with the transfer switch, located near your EMS. Try moving both breakers to the off position, then back to the on position. Do the same with the circuit breakers in the power distribution panel. Operate each circuit breaker handle, making sure that the handle moves all the way to the off position, then all the way to the on position. You should be able to insert the probe tips of your multimeter into the openings in the 30 amp 120 volt pedestal receptacle. Make sure that you have the range set for AC volts, not millivolts and that the probe cables are plugged into the multimeter correct ports for voltage and resistance, NOT AMPS!

Yeah the breaker box!

[7Gentex]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

Yeah the breaker box!

Except he states those are working when fed from the inverter via the transfer switch. The sub-panel is downstream of the transfer switch.

Sounds as if the transfer switch may not be getting shore power, or is wonky (technical term) and stuck on inverter power somehow.


OP - double check the breaker in the power center for the transfer switch - 30amp on bottom usually.

[7Gentex]

Try unplugging the output from the inverter to the transfer switch.

First - turn off the inverter

Then, there is a "regular" looking 120 volt receptacle on the inverter body that has a "regular" looking 120 volt plug in it. That plug / cord feeds inverter 120v to the transfer switch.

While on shore power, pull that plug, wait a few for the transfer switch time delay and then see if you have working 120 volt receptacles.

FYI - The transfer switch is supposed to always allow shore power to pass thru without the relays being energized.

I'm betting on a bad / sticky relay in the transfer switch. Or a bad 120v breaker feeding the transfer switch.

At least you have shore power to keep the batts charged.


Merry Christmas all.

[alanmalk]

While you are at it - cycle the GFI outlet thru the test-reset sequence. All outlets downstream from the GFI are subject to the state of this device.
(Yes, I know the microwave is not on that circuit, but this is too easy of a check to pass up.)

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by 7Gentex

Except he states those are working when fed from the inverter via the transfer switch. The sub-panel is downstream of the transfer switch.

Exactly. With regards to the gray sub-panel with 15A breakers - if the outlets are working with inverter power they should be working with shore power since it is common to both pathways. You need to check upstream….WFCO breaker or transfer switch issue.

[DT6]

Problem seems to be solved. It was a combination of my ignorance and possibly doing something during hookup to cause the transfer switch circuit breaker to throw. I noticed a scorch mark on the plug going into the shore power outlet, so I may have done something while connecting the first time. I never gave it any mind as the AC was working and assumed everything was okay.

At any rate, I reset the breaker and shore power and it all seems to work. I apologize to everyone for not diagnosing this myself or at least doing more due diligence before posting.

I seem to be expecting everything in this new 21C to work like our 19 and so far it has not. So I think more time getting used to the new trailer is in order.

Thanks everyone!

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by DT6

I apologize to everyone for not diagnosing this myself or at least doing more due diligence before posting.

No need to apologize, that's part of what this community does is support owners/members.

Glad you got it figured out

Merry Christmas!!

[7Gentex]

Easy fix is best fix!

FYI - I usually cut of the park power pedestal 30 amp breaker before plugging in shore power. (both ends)......old habit.

Also, leave the inverter off unless you need it - i.e. - no shore power and need 120v


Merry Christmas all.

[EscapeBoulder]

I have a quick question vis vi using the inverter vs shore power.

I’ve been out camping with our new Starlink and therefore using the inverter quite a bit for the first time in our greater than 4 yrs of Escape ownership. Well, my 170 w roof and 100 w ground Jackery solar panels haven’t been keeping up with our power usage, so this morning I finally, begrudgingly, pulled out our Honda generator.

My question is: Should I turn off the inverter before hooking up shore power (the generator)? Or will the electronics automatically turn off the inverter when the EMS finally lets shore power in?

Thank you in advance for your thoughts.

BTW… Starlink is wonderful when there isn’t any cell coverage.

[7Gentex]

Originally Posted by EscapeBoulder

I have a quick question vis vi using the inverter vs shore power.

I’ve been out camping with our new Starlink and therefore using the inverter quite a bit for the first time in our greater than 4 yrs of Escape ownership. Well, my 170 w roof and 100 w ground Jackery solar panels haven’t been keeping up with our power usage, so this morning I finally, begrudgingly, pulled out our Honda generator.

My question is: Should I turn off the inverter before hooking up shore power (the generator)? Or will the electronics automatically turn off the inverter when the EMS finally lets shore power in?

Thank you in advance for your thoughts.

BTW… Starlink is wonderful when there isn’t any cell coverage.

That is 2 questions. 😜

Yes, though does not have to be before hooking up shore power. With shore power, you do not need the inverter.

No. If inverter is switched on, it will take priority to power those circuits. Cut it off when shore power is available.

[Vermilye]

If the inverter is on, what ever is plugged into the receptacles will be powered by it. The 12V current necessary to run the inverter is not available to charge the batteries. Since you only have 55 amps from the converter, it will take longer to recharge the batteries via the generator with the inverter on (definitely with lithium batteries, and likely with lead acid).