Solar Power question again

[jxoco]

Originally Posted by sclifrickson

Interstate sent me this awhile back.
Attachment 42821

What do the numbers in red mean? (in float and equalize.)

[sclifrickson]

Originally Posted by jxoco

What do the numbers in red mean? (in float and equalize.)

I don't know. Interstate didn't explain, and I didn't ask, although I'm curious too.

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by sclifrickson

Interstate sent me this awhile back.
Attachment 42821

Just a note for those who didn't follow the failed devices due to voltage thread.

Here is a list of the allowable voltages for the devices in our trailers:

Per the manufacturer's recommendations:
Dometic 2554/2663 9.6-18 volts
Suburban SW6DE 10.5-13.5 volts
Maxxfan 7000K 10.6-13.7 volts
Atwood AFSAD12 10.5-13.5 volts
Dometic 9500 10.5 – 15.5 volts
2017-2018 LED light <=12 volts

As you can see, if you run an equalization voltage of 15.6, the only device that would operate within it's voltage limits is the Dometic fridge.

Be careful what you set the solar controller parameters to if you don't have voltage regulation on your devices.

The WFCO converter voltages are 13.2 VDC range “float” mode, 13.6 VDC range “absorption” charge mode, and a 14.4 VDC range “bulk” charge mode. Since the WFCO "rairly" goes into bulk mode, it doesn't pose as much of a danger of overvoltage.

[sclifrickson]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

Just a note for those who didn't follow the failed devices due to voltage thread.

Here is a list of the allowable voltages for the devices in our trailers:

Per the manufacturer's recommendations:
Dometic 2554/2663 9.6-18 volts
Suburban SW6DE 10.5-13.5 volts
Maxxfan 7000K 10.6-13.7 volts
Atwood AFSAD12 10.5-13.5 volts
Dometic 9500 10.5 – 15.5 volts
2017-2018 LED light <=12 volts

As you can see, if you run an equalization voltage of 15.6, the only device that would operate within it's voltage limits is the Dometic fridge.

Be careful what you set the solar controller parameters to if you don't have voltage regulation on your devices.

The WFCO converter voltages are 13.2 VDC range “float” mode, 13.6 VDC range “absorption” charge mode, and a 14.4 VDC range “bulk” charge mode. Since the WFCO "rairly" goes into bulk mode, it doesn't pose as much of a danger of overvoltage.

And to add onto this, those Interstate specifications are for a battery at 70F. And they have additional tables and formulas for temperature compensation at temps other than 70F. And if you have a solar controller that has a temperature sensor and compensation capability you might end up with voltages above 16V. I certainly have in winter conditions.

This is what Interstate specifies for proper care, max charge and long life of their batteries, and they ought to know about such things.

But, it can certainly lead to problems when other RV system components aren’t up to it.

[Vermilye]

With the cost of DC to DC converters becoming reasonable, I wonder if it would make sense to add one to the DC distribution panel in the converter. They are already being used for RV's that use 24V systems for the solar/batteries/inverter to supply 12V to the traditional appliances.

You would still have the various solar controller & converter stages & voltages to the batteries, but could set the DC to DC converter for 13 volts or so for the distribution panel. If you have a refrigerator that runs on 12V DC, you would need something in the neighborhood of 45-50 amps (or use a separate fuse for it directly to the batteries), but could get away with far less if the only loads were the pump, lights, furnace fan, etc.

[Tin]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

Just a note for those who didn't follow the failed devices due to voltage thread.

Here is a list of the allowable voltages for the devices in our trailers:

Per the manufacturer's recommendations:
Dometic 2554/2663 9.6-18 volts
Suburban SW6DE 10.5-13.5 volts
Maxxfan 7000K 10.6-13.7 volts
Atwood AFSAD12 10.5-13.5 volts
Dometic 9500 10.5 – 15.5 volts
2017-2018 LED light <=12 volts

As you can see, if you run an equalization voltage of 15.6, the only device that would operate within it's voltage limits is the Dometic fridge.

Be careful what you set the solar controller parameters to if you don't have voltage regulation on your devices.

The WFCO converter voltages are 13.2 VDC range “float” mode, 13.6 VDC range “absorption” charge mode, and a 14.4 VDC range “bulk” charge mode. Since the WFCO "rairly" goes into bulk mode, it doesn't pose as much of a danger of overvoltage.

IMHO, Interstate batteries are not a good choice, considering the components installed in Escape trailers. 15.6 volts

[Rossue]

Five years later have never had a problem with the stock ETI solar. I did unwisely choose a Group 29 12V, yet ditched it and my Interstate 6V's I bought at Costco for under $90 have been great the last four years.

So, despite them evidently never getting the proper equalization they don't seem to care. I just make sure they have enough distilled water and that's it.

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by Rossue

Five years later have never had a problem with the stock ETI solar. I did unwisely choose a Group 29 12V, yet ditched it and my Interstate 6V's I bought at Costco for under $90 have been great the last four years.

So, despite them evidently never getting the proper equalization they don't seem to care. I just make sure they have enough distilled water and that's it.

That is exactly the route I took in my 2014 E21, the group 29 box was large enough to hold the dual 6 er's I bought after a year at Sam's Club. The original battery is still in use in a neighbors camper.

[padlin]

I've been using 15.6v for a few years now, must be that the older hardware can take the higher voltages. But then I don't equalize much of at all when using the trailer.

[Gary737]

Originally Posted by Vermilye

You can purchase a remote for the GoPower Inverter -the simple on/off or one that has more information in a display.

I like the ability of the Victron 100/30 to provide data & allow programming on my phone (like the 721 battery monitor). The combination of the Victron & remote for the inverter will also be less expensive than the GoPower MPPT controller.

If you switch to lithium in the future, rather than needing to purchase a new controller, all you need to do is reprogram the Victron.

New guy here. I am also researching solar for my upcoming Escape21 purchase. The Victron 712 monitor has an Amazon write up by Brett Stone talking about how the monitor drained his boat battery in less than 30 days with the batteries turned off. Does that drain pose a problem for RV use? It sounds like the batteries should be disconnected when the RV is not being actively used.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Gary737

... The Victron 712 monitor has an Amazon write up by Brett Stone talking about how the monitor drained his boat battery in less than 30 days with the batteries turned off. Does that drain pose a problem for RV use? It sounds like the batteries should be disconnected when the RV is not being actively used.

They should be disconnected, ideally. In the models in which the batteries are inside and not easy to get to (the 21' and 5.0TA), there is a storage switch to disconnect almost all loads from the batteries, so you don't need to actually disconnect cables from the batteries... but a monitor like this would normally go directly to the battery and so would likely bypass the switch. Someone with a Victron monitor could clarify that.

[Effie]

you don't need a seperate temp sensor for your Victron smart controller if you have one with your 712 battery monitor. The 712 monitor can send the battery temperature and voltage to the controller via what Victron calls "VE.Smart Networking" (essentially a BlueTooth connection). Go to Victron website and search for "Smart Networking". Easy to configure and works great for me.

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

They should be disconnected, ideally. In the models in which the batteries are inside and not easy to get to (the 21' and 5.0TA), there is a storage switch to disconnect almost all loads from the batteries, so you don't need to actually disconnect cables from the batteries... but a monitor like this would normally go directly to the battery and so would likely bypass the switch. Someone with a Victron monitor could clarify that.

As Brian noted, the Victron battery monitor is normally connected directly to the battery, bypassing the battery disconnect switch. That said, I doubt the Victron battery monitor is what "killed" the poster's battery in 30 days. It draws 4ma, or 2.9 amp hours per month according to the specifications, and that seems correct by my usage.

[Greg A]

That Amazon reviewer didn’t indicate he had solar if I recall. If the trailer has solar and it is functioning when the trailer is stored then it shouldn’t be an issue, the batteries will be fine. At Jon’s calculations it shouldn’t cause an issue unless you were stored indoors for quite some time and pay no attention to the trailer. I never saw any additional reviews that agreed with him or indicated they had a similar experience.

[Berndad]

Originally Posted by Effie

you don't need a seperate temp sensor for your Victron smart controller if you have one with your 712 battery monitor. The 712 monitor can send the battery temperature and voltage to the controller via what Victron calls "VE.Smart Networking" (essentially a BlueTooth connection). Go to Victron website and search for "Smart Networking". Easy to configure and works great for me.

Up and running!
Discovered that I could use the existing Go Power controller as a switch for my inverter by running 2 small leads to the battery side.
It also functions as an additional Voltmeter and USB port stays active as well
So I was able to save the $ on the remote inverter switch.
The Networking is super simple as you stated and is great!

http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/im...attach/jpg.gif

[Berndad]

Originally Posted by Berndad

Up and running!
Discovered that I could use the existing Go Power controller as a switch for my inverter by running 2 small leads to the battery side.
It also functions as an additional Voltmeter and USB port stays active as well
So I was able to save the $ on the remote inverter switch.
The Networking is super simple as you stated and is great!

http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/im...attach/jpg.gif

I also plan on upgrading the connections and wire ETI used when I get a chance.
They used a short lead of much smaller gauge to go from the 2 roof mounted solar panels and Zamp port which are wire nut connected as seen in the photo.
To get up and running I just moved the existing wiring from 1 controller to the next.