Solar question

[Videocrafters]

I have a single solar panel and controller installed by ETI. I also own a Renogy solar briefcase with controller. I would like to use both at the same time by connecting the Renogy directly to the battery using the alligator clips. Any problem with that?

[Jim Bennett]

No problem at all. As long as you are not going through both controllers it will work fine. Clipping directly to the battery bypasses the Escape installed one.

[fudge_brownie]

You may not need the solar controller attached to the panel. It certainly can be used but it may throttle down the panel output to such a low level that you are not charging. Also the gauge and length of wire to the panel to battery are important. For more than 10 feet a 10 gauge wire is recommended. If you are going to use it often a more secure connection than battery clamps would be recommended. Anderson connectors seem to be favorite.

The panel specs would tell you the optimum output but testing with a multimeter using the solar controller and bypassing the controller will give more accurate numbers. The specs are usually overstated.

I like portable because there are so many shaded sites or poor angles. Being able to place a panel is handy.

[Oldtimer]

I’m sure this has been asked before so forgive. If I add a panel do I have to also change out the controller. We have the solar option on our 21.

David

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by Oldtimer

I’m sure this has been asked before so forgive. If I add a panel do I have to also change out the controller. We have the solar option on our 21.

David

It depends on how you add the panel. If it is another rooftop panel, you can purchase combiner MC 4 connectors, and connect the additional panel in parallel with the existing one. The stock controller should be a 30 amp version so it does not need to be changed unless your total is over 400 watts or so. You should try to match the Vmp specifications of the additional panel to that of the current panel as close as possible.

If the additional panel is a portable, and it has a controller, it needs to be connected directly to the battery(ies). Rather than opening the battery box each time you want to connect, a ZAMP or Anderson connector can be added to the trailer & wired to the battery(ies). You can also bypass the portable panel controller or order a panel without a controller and connect the ZAMP or Anderson connector to the input of the trailer's existing controller, a method I prefer.

[Oldtimer]

Thank you. Looks like I’ll have to upgrade controller if I choose to add a panel on the roof. mmmmmmmmm

David

[StarvingHyena]

Originally Posted by Oldtimer

Thank you. Looks like I’ll have to upgrade controller if I choose to add a panel on the roof. mmmmmmmmm

David

Are you sure? 400 watts is alot of panel power ..... most don't have that much solar.

Tom

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by StarvingHyena

Are you sure? 400 watts is alot of panel power ..... most don't have that much solar.

Tom

And you will rarely see the rooftop panels at anywhere near their rating. I have 320 watts (2 160 watt panels) on the roof & a 160 watt portable panel for a total of 480 watts. Even tilting the rooftop panels to the proper angle for winter sun, and moving the portable to follow the sun I've rarely managed to hit 30 amps. More typical is 24 amps - 26 amps using a Victron 100/30 MPPT controller.

While it doesn't hurt the MPPT controller to go over the rated input wattage by a little, it would be a problem for Escape's standard GoPower PWM controller. That said, unless you go well over 400 watts and tilt the panels, you won't exceed the GoPower rating.

[Oldtimer]

Thank you Jon n Tom puts one mind at ease n keeps the adding of the panel simple

David