Splice Box

[Greg A]

For those who have never opened the splice box where the 7 pin comes into the trailer, here is what mine looks like. Mine is located under the DS dinette bench, but I hear some models it is under DS on the exterior.
As I wire up for Lithium batteries, I’m initially thinking of getting rid of the splice box and putting a + and - bus bar and wiring block on my utilities board and connecting with those. This makes adding items easy and clear labeling can be put on each connection for troubleshooting issues later. I’m not a big fan of the 4 feeds from the charge line in a big wire nut with oodles of electrical tape.
Not quite sure if there was a bad connection here, how one would ever find it to repair.

[padlin]

Wish I had a picture of it to post but on my Starcraft the splice was a big wad of electrical tape. You're not putting the busbars in a box?

[Greg A]

No I'll mount the bus bars and wiring block on a 1/2" pressboard base I'm putting in for the batteries and some of the equipment like the shunt. They have plastic covers that snap over the connections to protect from items falling on them, etc.
It appears the Victron MPPT controller is recommended to be mounted vertically and not horizontal, so I'll have to look at the space where I can put a board on the interior of the bench for vertical items to be mounted.
I'm sure some splice boxes on trailers are a total mess. The 20+ year old Scamps that I've redone, were total train wrecks on wiring and I changed them all over to bus bar and wiring blocks that were clearly labeled or easily traceable.

[tdf-texas]

The later trailers used a standard 7-pin junction box instead of a splice box.

It might be cleaner and less hassle later on when you need to replace the 7-pin cable if you used one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

The later trailers used a standard 7-pin junction box instead of a splice box.

It might be cleaner and less hassle later on when you need to replace the 7-pin cable if you used one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2X
Here is a photo of mine after making changes when adding a DC to DC converter in order to power the breakaway & tongue jack:

[Greg A]

Oooh, I like that option, Tom. I've added it to the list and will consider. Might be a good time to have a whole brand new cable and 7pin while doing this. Price is good too.

[Greg A]

Originally Posted by Vermilye

2X
Here is a photo of mine after making changes when adding a DC to DC converter in order to power the breakaway & tongue jack:

Wow, Jon, what a difference in how they did things from 2015 to 2017. Basically, I'm looking to upgrade the 7pin cable to what you, Tom, and the later trailers already apparently have.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Greg A

Wow, Jon, what a difference in how they did things from 2015 to 2017. Basically, I'm looking to upgrade the 7pin cable to what you, Tom, and the later trailers already apparently have.

I have the same as you Greg and see this upgrade in my future. Was thinking about just buying the box but at almost 11 years old now maybe a replacement of the 7 pin harness/plug is a good idea. As you already know be sure to keep all your connections straight - in both photos from you and Jon (and now also Tom) it appears that red (left turn/stop) from the 7 pin is connecting to a yellow wire on the trailer side. Whereas the yellow from the 7 pin is typically not used on our trailers (reverse lights) and you can see Jon has it safed off. I think this explains why:
https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...tml#post145608

[tdf-texas]

Here's a pic of the breakout box on my trailer. It's mounted on the inside frame rail between the storage box and the front of the trailer using two self tapping screws.

I redid the factory wiring lugs using crimped, soldered, and heat shrinked lugs.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

I redid the factory wiring lugs using crimped, soldered, and heat shrinked lugs.

Thanks for adding that. It didn't look anywhere near that good from the factory unfortunately!

[Eggscape]

Here is the picture of my 2018 box under the trailer and there is even room for a water resistant switch.
In Canada the boxes are on sale for the next few days. Good for all sorts of projects in the trailer. I always have one on hand.

[Greg A]

What is the "secret squirrel" switch for Ed? If I render a guess it's a shutoff for the tongue jack....

[Vermilye]

I've had a number of trailer 7 pin connectors (plugs) fail, ie lose contact on one or more pins with the original as well as a couple of replacement plugs. I eventually broke down and bought an expensive one that was recommended. It has not lost any connections, fits much tighter in the truck connector than the others I've used, and the LEDs are handy for checking whether any problems are with the truck or trailer.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Greg A

What is the "secret squirrel" switch for Ed? If I render a guess it's a shutoff for the tongue jack....

Yup.
https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...tml#post271270

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Vermilye

I've had a number of trailer 7 pin connectors (plugs) fail, ie lose contact on one or more pins with the original as well as a couple of replacement plugs. I eventually broke down and bought an expensive one that was recommended. It has not lost any connections, fits much tighter in the truck connector than the others I've used, and the LEDs are handy for checking whether any problems are with the truck or trailer.

Thanks Jon. So maybe my best bet is the 7 pin umbilical that you linked coupled with a junction box rather than buying the package.

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Thanks Jon. So maybe my best bet is the 7 pin umbilical that you linked coupled with a junction box rather than buying the package.

Up to you. Since I already had the Escape provided junction box I never tried the plug that comes with the linked junction box - it might be OK. I just got tired of loose plugs lighting up my dashboard safety notices & wondering if my lights & brakes were working. Since I was replacing my poor quality plug I asked an eTrailer rep for their best connector & that was the one they suggested. So far, so good!

[Centex]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

..... Whereas the yellow from the 7 pin is typically not used on our trailers (reverse lights) and you can see Jon has it safed off. ....

Doh, I hadn't 'clicked' on the realization that Escape trailers don't have reverse lights until reading this and then referring more attentively to rear-end pics on ETI's website!

Gonna have to 'remedy' that (no worries), as a solo-traveler relying on mirror-vision I find them useful when maneuvering in tight-quarters after dark.

Love this forum and the tidbits of info found herein - I can deal with mods but dislike 'after-delivery surprises' that expose my lack of due-diligence.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Centex

Doh, I hadn't 'clicked' on the realization that Escape trailers don't have reverse lights until reading this and then referring more attentively to rear-end pics on ETI's website!

Most trailers don't, possibly because most tow vehicles are not wired to provide the reverse lamp circuit... and more importantly, that wiring is not consistent. But the centre pin is there and the wire is in the umbilical if you want to add it.

Originally Posted by Centex

Gonna have to 'remedy' that (no worries), as a solo-traveler relying on mirror-vision I find them useful when maneuvering in tight-quarters after dark.

An alternative is to add the lamps to the trailer but don't bother with the wiring on the tow vehicle, and just switch the lamps on when desired. You presumably wouldn't normally back the trailer into a site (especially at night) without getting out to look first, so manual switching shouldn't be too inconvenient.

For what you can see in the tow vehicle's mirrors, "docking lamps" - mounted on the side of the trailer ahead of the axle and facing rearward - would be much more useful than reverse lamps on the back of the trailer.

[Centex]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

Most trailers don't, possibly because most tow vehicles are not wired to provide the reverse lamp circuit...

Guess I've been spoiled / lucky - my Casita has 'em, my parent's Airstreams that I ocassionally borrowed had 'em, and my previous 2-horse trailer with living quarters had 'em; and all the many TV's I've used with OE 7-pin RV connectors (Ford, GM, Honda) were wired to let 'em work as intended, plug-and-play, so whoever did the trailer and TV wiring respected the 'conventional' connector pin-assignments without regard to wire colors used.

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

An alternative is to add the lamps to the trailer but don't bother with the wiring on the tow vehicle, and just switch the lamps on when desired. You presumably wouldn't normally back the trailer into a site (especially at night) without getting out to look first, so manual switching shouldn't be too inconvenient.

Fair enuf and correct, but as long as undertaking the mod the one wire to the 'splice box' isn't a big-deal at all (it's far from the only wire I already know I'll be 'fishing' past the bath in my 5.0) .... goes to that 'do it right' thing I'm burdened with

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Thanks Jon. So maybe my best bet is the 7 pin umbilical that you linked coupled with a junction box rather than buying the package.

I've had good luck with the Mictuning set - much better quality than the set the trailer came with.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you are going to buy the Hopkins, at least look for a better price than Etrailer. $68.40 vs $36.25.

https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-20146.../dp/B0007LL0CO