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Old 10-06-2021, 03:32 PM   #1
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Successfully Installing a new Dometic RMD 10.5XT

Hello All;
Like many others, our RMD 8555 fridge in our 5.0 failed. Repair cost estimates were over half the cost of the new 10.5 XT fridge, so we bit the bullet and got the new fridge .
Dometic is ZERO help in getting the new unit installed properly. With wiring diagram help from Paul (a602pmcc), and from Charlie (c&c) for proof reading / installing based on our notes, we think the attached install notes / pictures may help those of you that are wanting to install the 10.5XT fridge. Once installed, we ran the fridge on all 3 sources, 12V, 120V and propane - for about 12 hours each to test the systems.
These are our notes / pictures, and your install may have differences. Use this info at your own risk.

We took our rig on a 4 hour drive to a campsite at the beach using the 12V while we drove, and the unit auto switched to 120V as soon as we plugged in to shore power. We had ice to spare for the 4 days we were there with outside temps in the mid 90's.

Note - I loaded 3 files parts 1, 2 and 3 in the order we did the work and what seemed to make sense. The pictures have page numbers on the lower right to help keep things in order.

Best of luck and safe travels,

Vin and Janice
Attached Files
File Type: pdf rmd 10.5XT part 1.pdf (803.9 KB, 200 views)
File Type: pdf rmd 10.5XT part 2.pdf (682.3 KB, 146 views)
File Type: pdf rmd 10.5XT part 3.pdf (765.7 KB, 145 views)
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Old 10-06-2021, 04:08 PM   #2
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I carefully read your instructions as I have the dreaded RMD8555 in my 21. You have done a good job of pictures and instructions, it appears to be a straight forward process. As you alluded to in your narrative the most you have provided is a lot of confidence that it can be done.

Your parts list makes this job so much easier. The big time waste is always securing the parts. A drill, wrenches, crimping tool, hair dryer, pry bar for the molding, hammer, screw drivers are what I come up with for tools. Thanks for the hint on the flaring tool.

Having removed the refrigerator to insulate the cavity I am already comfortable with that step. It could be daunting to others. Having an assistant and a cart, stool or other rolling device can make getting in and out of the cavity and the door much easier.

Did you perform any testing before the install? Probably would be limited to shore power but there may be some safety features preventing operation with out gas installed. Did the 120 volt plug need to be installed?

Thanks again for a fine explanation.
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Old 10-06-2021, 04:38 PM   #3
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Much thanks for this information and "scouting the trail ahead".
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Old 10-06-2021, 05:35 PM   #4
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Appreciate very much the guide; did you order from Dyer's?
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Old 10-06-2021, 07:26 PM   #5
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Hi All
This is Vin w/ some answers.
No, we did not test before installing the fridge. I built a small 2x4 and plywood stand to rest the old fridge on when removing, and the new fridge on when installing. It was way easier than trying to hold, balance and guide the new one into position. The new fridge does fit thru the door with the retractable screen door in place - but this is definitely a 2 person job.
We did not order the fridge from Dyers. A local SC camper supply / repair business was able to order it for us - but it took 3 months to be delivered.
The 120V circuit comes with a standard 3 prong plug just like the old 8555, so we did not need anything for that connection. Al l misc hardware supplies were picked up at our local Lowes/ Home Depot stores.
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Old 10-07-2021, 06:18 AM   #6
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Great write up, thanks for posting......
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Old 02-26-2022, 03:04 PM   #7
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Another Dometic 10.5XT Install

Got the new fridge really quick; ordered it 2/10 and it shipped the next day from a Dometic facility in Sumner, WA. It was received by my local Freight Co. last week and they delivered it yesterday- so two weeks total. Sticker on the unit shows it was made 11/22/21 in Germany I believe.

A question on my baffle- or in this case the ETI removed baffle. We participated in the RML8555 to RMD8555 program that Reace was able to effect. Had it done locally then shortly thereafter we were going up to ETI during a B.C. trip to have them address some items while still under warranty. Was not happy with how the local company sealed the top front area inside the trailer so had Reace fix.

He had to pull the fridge and found there were scorch marks already from an improper install and sent me pictures- which I posted here back then. What I didn't know was that he & Nigel evidently decided to just remove the Luan baffle completely and affix Reflectix on the side of the trailer. I have had some issues with performance, yet nothing serious like others have reported unless I overpacked the inside preventing air circulation. Putting an inside twin fan really made the difference.

Here is a photo taken with sun shining on the side of the trailer and you can see a discolored area exactly where the flue area is, yet it is several inches further away now with the Luan bafffle gone; you can see where it was cut off at the bottom. I intend to put up some aluminum or sheet metal to act as a heat barrier. Am wondering if this is generally how ETI does their fridge installs these days.

A special thanks to Vin for the great documentation, especially for the electrical connections. With that new Euro harness it would've probably required a mobile tech, which only takes a couple of months these days. Thanks also to Paul for the Dyer's tip; wish I had ordered last July; I paid $2419! Am going to take my time and prep the cavity as others have done. Any other feedback welcome as well.
Attached Thumbnails
fridge cavity.jpg  
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Old 02-26-2022, 05:01 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossue View Post
Got the new fridge really quick; ordered it 2/10 and it shipped the next day from a Dometic facility in Sumner, WA. It was received by my local Freight Co. last week and they delivered it yesterday- so two weeks total. Sticker on the unit shows it was made 11/22/21 in Germany I believe.

A question on my baffle- or in this case the ETI removed baffle. We participated in the RML8555 to RMD8555 program that Reace was able to effect. Had it done locally then shortly thereafter we were going up to ETI during a B.C. trip to have them address some items while still under warranty. Was not happy with how the local company sealed the top front area inside the trailer so had Reace fix.

He had to pull the fridge and found there were scorch marks already from an improper install and sent me pictures- which I posted here back then. What I didn't know was that he & Nigel evidently decided to just remove the Luan baffle completely and affix Reflectix on the side of the trailer. I have had some issues with performance, yet nothing serious like others have reported unless I overpacked the inside preventing air circulation. Putting an inside twin fan really made the difference.

Here is a photo taken with sun shining on the side of the trailer and you can see a discolored area exactly where the flue area is, yet it is several inches further away now with the Luan bafffle gone; you can see where it was cut off at the bottom. I intend to put up some aluminum or sheet metal to act as a heat barrier. Am wondering if this is generally how ETI does their fridge installs these days.

A special thanks to Vin for the great documentation, especially for the electrical connections. With that new Euro harness it would've probably required a mobile tech, which only takes a couple of months these days. Thanks also to Paul for the Dyer's tip; wish I had ordered last July; I paid $2419! Am going to take my time and prep the cavity as others have done. Any other feedback welcome as well.
There should be install instructions with the fridge or online that show in detail the required gap for airflow between the fridge and fridge cabinet. For the RMD it was 1/4 inch top and sides and wider on the back 7/8 ??, do not remember. Your new fridge should be similar. ETI's gaps were not to spec.
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Old 02-26-2022, 05:37 PM   #9
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Will check the manual closely before install, yet it seems as it is a direct replacement and given our fridge actually did work well- am hoping I can do a little better insulating and then install pretty much as is.

Am thinking of using a piece of .40" Minicell I had leftover from doing the van floor. It seems twice as thick or better than the Reflectix there now & have just set it in on top to evaluate. It is fire retardant, UV stable, & hydrophobic. Any thoughts there? Still plan on using a piece of sheet metal around the area of the flue that discolored the Refletix. Will trim and tuck the bottom behind the Luan as shown on left photo.

For the sides will probably use foam board with Reflectix on top as I don't have enough of the Minicell left.
Attached Thumbnails
fridge wall1.jpg   fridgewall2.jpg  
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Old 02-26-2022, 09:41 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossue View Post
What I didn't know was that he & Nigel evidently decided to just remove the Luan baffle completely and affix Reflectix on the side of the trailer.

now with the Luan bafffle gone;
That's about the time I brought to their attention the terrible consequences of using untreated bare Luan in a warm moisture laden enclosure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossue View Post
Will check the manual closely before install, yet it seems as it is a direct replacement and given our fridge actually did work well- am hoping I can do a little better insulating and then install pretty much as is.

Still plan on using a piece of sheet metal around the area of the flue that discolored the Refletix. Will trim and tuck the bottom behind the Luan as shown on left photo.
I just replaced the whole baffle with sheet aluminum which also gave me the opportunity to install vertical baffles to keep the hot exhaust away from the condenser.

Ron
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Old 02-26-2022, 10:25 PM   #11
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Is that sheet aluminum or 2 x 2 angle?
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Old 02-27-2022, 11:13 AM   #12
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It's all just sheet aluminum. Probably sixty thou "half hard" 5052. Easy to bend for jobs like this.

There are secondary pieces attached to the interior side back wall that make for a more sealed duct.

I wish the heater exhaust flue that vents through the exterior side wall that they use in other parts of the world was available here. I looked at getting one from Australia but decided that it wasn't worth it. Never made sense to me that they dump out hot exhaust right beside the condenser that's trying to dump heat.

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Old 04-13-2022, 04:24 PM   #13
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Thanks for the info on wiring the RMD10.5XT. One big difference I noticed between this new model and its predecessor is that the new will not run on DC unless the key is in the ignition and the ignition is on. If I try to force it on DC (without the ignition on) it draws no current and just beeps 3 times over and over.

I get the feeling that this is by design, but I installed 400 AH lithium batteries and thought that I could run the fridge on batteries for a day or so if I ever ran out of propane. It does not look like this is possible with the new design.

Anybody else come across this?
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Old 04-14-2022, 09:03 AM   #14
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OK, fridge is now running on DC when forced in that mode by the menu. Apparently it has to be completely cooled off by either propane or electric. After it is cooled and stable, it can be forced to run off the batteries, but draws about 15 amps so it is only suggested that you do this for a very short time. So far I'm pleased with the unit. I measured 2 degrees in the freezer and 37 in the fridge after about 14 hours on electric. I have it it on level 4.
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Old 04-15-2022, 04:15 PM   #15
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RMD 10.5XT Install Success

.....finally! Ordered from Dyers Online; and it shipped the next day!. Did the R&R using the first floor of a 36" x 72" plastic shelving unit from Home Depot.

Using Vin's detailed instructions at Post #1 the unit fired right up. However, it would not run on propane unless the #3 positive and #6 negative(they run the DC heater) were unplugged. With those leads plugged in & without shore power the fridge would turn on and default to DC. If shore power connected then AC. Attempting to select propane manually would sit on the gas icon for about 10 seconds then go back to default DC or AC when shore power connected.

VLSS: Dometic sent out another lower board as an accomodation: they got confused and thought I was out of warranty. With second board it now only runs on propane! Dometic now says only option is Service Center. Good luck with that- didn't work for me. The Wizard of Oz Tech(never saw him) with 35 years experience wouldn't talk with me for background at drop-off and called later to say he would need to pull it out for diagnosis and that'll be $195. What? Why when under warranty? "It's wired wrong- who did the install? Me. No budging from him so I went and picked it up and thanked them for wasting my time.

I could detail ALL the frustration(quite a bit more) I encountered, yet my problem really got down to fixing a "Comm Error" from the front panel selector. That info isn't in the Owner's Manual or Install Manual and no one at Dometic during at least 10 calls I had knew it either. I stumbled across "Dometic fridge failure how to reset it". A Nice Aussie gent is in front of a slightly different unit; has a single-door fridge with controls like the RML8555, whereas mine is a two-door with a round dial Dometic calls TFT.

So the fix: when I selected AC(with shore power)- and normally at this point it would sit there for 10 seconds and then revert back to propane. So this time while it was thinking about it I pressed the round dial for three seconds and heard a beep. That was it and now it will work on DC if I select it, even with propane tanks on- just like the RMD8555 did.

Here is the link to the Aussie gent; he takes his time getting to the point- yet his was the only info I've seen in weeks of searching that addressed the problem and more importantly provided an easy fix.
https://www.google.com/search?q=dome...FkPIPm9ixqA015
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Old 04-15-2022, 04:24 PM   #16
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Btw, we've taken two trips for about six weeks of using it on propane while researching the above fix and the performance is great. Didn't know it had doors that would open from either direction too. They lock very securely as well. We had our doors fly off the RMD8555 a few times.

Looking forward to running it on DC while driving it as Vin tells me if cold to begin with- the DC operation is far better than the RMD8555 and will maintain the temp. That would be nice.
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Old 04-15-2022, 04:56 PM   #17
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That control knob and menu selector is not real intuitive. I had to play with it for several minutes to figure out how to force it on one power or another. Once you get it on the power source you want, you have to push in the button one more time and then rotate to the exit button, push again. If you don't do it right, it goes back to the previous selection. I thought the RMD8555 was a much easier system to use the menu and select the power source you wanted. Glad you got it working.
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