But I know there is a 12V disconnect and I assume a fuse somewhere? I have no idea what to look for and I remember the former owner telling me he moved the disconnect as he kept hitting it and turning it off. But wondering if the charger thing blew the fuse.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobbie54
It’s not the batteries, both are equally charged fully. So something cut off 12V. What am I looking for when I look for the shutoff? (I.e., what does it look like?) Or the fuse?
Bobbie: Based on what you said earlier about previous owner it was probably moved under the dinette seat close to where the switch may have been originally. Do you have any holes, cover plates, patches, etc. in the sides of any dinette seats that might indicate where the switch was originally? Below is a picture that shows stock switch in a 2010 19.
Close to this switch but under a dinette seat is typically an auto reset circuit breaker (see second picture) that can also go bad but it is rare. https://www.amazon.com/Amp-Automatic.../dp/B006PJI1YW
Early trailers didn't have another inline fuse close to the battery like the newer trailers. If you do have one it will be on the positive lead somewhere between the batteries and the disconnect switch. See pic.
I just checked them both- they should be and were the same, but just in case I had wired something wrong I checked both. I have to move sites in a bit so while I’m hitched I’m going to see if the lights come on (12V).
Bobbie: Based on what you said earlier about previous owner it was probably moved under the dinette seat close to where the switch may have been originally. Do you have any holes, cover plates, patches, etc. in the sides of any dinette seats that might indicate where the switch was originally? Below is a picture that shows stock switch in a 2010 19.
Close to this switch but under a dinette seat is typically an auto reset circuit breaker (see second picture) that can also go bad but it is rare. https://www.amazon.com/Amp-Automatic.../dp/B006PJI1YW
Early trailers didn't have another inline fuse close to the battery like the newer trailers. If you do have one it will be on the positive lead somewhere between the batteries and the disconnect switch.
Thanks. If the lights don’t come on when I’m hitched up I’ll start looking again (as that would suggest 12V is turned off or went off. I think he did move it under the seat but I just didn’t know what I was looking for last night.
I thought only trailers with dual 6v batteries had cutoff switches.
Interesting. Never heard that one. Our trailer was ordered with a single 12V batt (with tongue mount prepped for dual 6V's) and it has a cutoff switch.
I thought only trailers with dual 6v batteries had cutoff switches.
Mine used to have dual 12V in parallel but then when both were dead I replaced with just one better one- but then when I changed tow vehicles last fall added the second one since one wouldn’t let me run the furnace for 2-3 cold days. I think it came with the two but do not know that for sure.
The way things change over the years it's hard to tell what was in the standard setup at any given time. I'm pretty sure the cutoff switch came only with dual 6 v'ers for at least 2014. As bought, my batteries went to the inline breaker then to the cutoff sw. From the cutoff to the converter/power panel. Without looking, I believe there are points labeled + and - 12vdc on the converter. Yours may differ. You could chase the 12v from the battery posts thru the switch, if you have it, and back to the converter connections. From there it's separate runs out to the equipment.
OK- no 12V when hitched to the car.
(Though it probably wasn’t running- did not think of that...)
Here are some pictures.
One of the two connections on the black knob was loose but I put it back tight, made no difference. I need to take the rest of the stuff out of that area and see if I can find a switch but if it is back there how would it have gone off?
I would think it would have to be a battery cutoff switch or a fuse on the inbound line from the battery. If not simple like a battery cutoff or the inline fuse at the battery, Multimeter tracing from the battery back will be what needs to happen until you find where the 12v ceases.
Converter usually has 30A fuses, If any of those are blown it would cause the entire 12v to be out. If 12v is live into the converter then those fuses would be the suspect.
Just an aside, long term project is the electrical tape covering splices or ?? needs to be looked at and redone. That main positive line with the electrical tape hiding something is a bit worrisome.
Not sure what the other electrical tape wrapped deal is either. Looks like some type of splices that are being covered up.
I would think it would have to be a battery cutoff switch or a fuse on the inbound line from the battery. If not simple like a battery cutoff or the inline fuse at the battery, Multimeter tracing from the battery back will be what needs to happen until you find where the 12v ceases.
Converter usually has 30A fuses, If any of those are blown it would cause the entire 12v to be out. If 12v is live into the converter then those fuses would be the suspect.
Just an aside, long term project is the electrical tape covering splices or ?? needs to be looked at and redone. That main positive line with the electrical tape hiding something is a bit worrisome.
Not sure what the other electrical tape wrapped deal is either. Looks like some type of splices that are being covered up.
I guess we are now waiting until I’m home and can remove the mattress and get to the converter. If it were urgent I’d crawl under the bed but I don’t have a very good flashlight and it isn’t urgent enough.
I wondered if the switch wasn’t just removed and the wires spliced together.
Possible the switch was removed, there is something spliced under that Electrical Tape and not sure why.
I would meter the battery and there should be a 50a inline fuse on the incoming + line to the battery. That should be accessible and eliminate a couple of items.
Yup, I installed duel 12s in my Scamp and my E19 and E21.Great for knowing that you'll never wind up unexpectedly without power. They don't have to be switched back and forth very often, just every once in a while.
No, the green isn't our upholstery. My wife put the cover on the cushion as a dog blanket, or so she says, because it's also "my" seat.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg A
Just an aside, long term project is the electrical tape covering splices or ?? needs to be looked at and redone. That main positive line with the electrical tape hiding something is a bit worrisome.
Not sure what the other electrical tape wrapped deal is either. Looks like some type of splices that are being covered up.
I had the same thought Greg. I'd want to know what was under the tape. Probably not the problem but I'd still want to know. If it's something like a poorly done splice then I'd want to fix it correctly.
Frustrating to see those photos and know with a multimeter or test light the scope of the problem could almost instantly be pinned down.
Also as an aside, my 21 came with one battery and a toggle type switch. When I installed my battery selector switch I used the factory switch as an on-off switch for my solar panels. It seemed fluky, it bench tested OK but operated erratically so I dumped it.
I have a multimeter working now but no clue what to test. I can’t get to the converter or any wiring under the big dinette until I’m home. This is the only thing I can access- what you see in the pictures. I was hoping it would be something easily fixable but its just going to have to wait.
Possible the switch was removed, there is something spliced under that Electrical Tape and not sure why.
I would meter the battery and there should be a 50a inline fuse on the incoming + line to the battery. That should be accessible and eliminate a couple of items.
Would the incoming fuse be inside or outside? The batteries are fully charged.
Not sure what ETI did on a 2011 15, but most of the trailers have a 50A fuse on the + line coming off the batteries and it's normally tucked right in the battery box. With the battery changes you've done and previous owner has done, not sure if that exists any longer. It is fairly obvious and should be on the line near the + terminal of the battery.
It will look something like this: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Holder...motive&sr=1-26
My 2014 did not come with a battery line fuse, at least not till I added one, just the little cube breaker, which I think is 50A. You can see it in Bobbie's pictures. The rectangle cube with the two threaded posts and nuts.
My 2014 did not come with a battery line fuse, at least not till I added one, just the little cube breaker, which I think is 50A. You can see it in Bobbie's pictures. The rectangle cube with the two threaded posts and nuts.
Can I test that with the multimeter? Would I just connect it to the two posts?
Yes/No, you need to put the black lead on a negative/ground and the other to one side of the breaker, then the same to the other side. You need to find a ground close enough to reach with the leads.
I thought only trailers with dual 6v batteries had cutoff switches.
At one point only trailers with a battery or batteries mounted inside had the cutoff switch - that would be the 21' and 5.0/5.0TA - regardless of whether there was a single 12 V battery or two 6 V batteries. I have no idea why the dual 6V battery setup would need a shutoff switch any more than a single 12 V battery setup.
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