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Old 07-10-2020, 06:31 PM   #41
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The purpose of the cut off switch is to eliminate parasitic drain, regardless of the number of batteries or their location. Most travel trailers have them.
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Old 07-10-2020, 08:12 PM   #42
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Quote:
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Converter usually has 30A fuses, If any of those are blown it would cause the entire 12v to be out. If 12v is live into the converter then those fuses would be the suspect.
Not to nitpick but the WFCO has two 40A fuses. They are there for reverse polarity protection (i.e. battery hooked up backwards). It is very rare that these would blow under normal circumstances but I guess anything is possible.
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Old 07-10-2020, 09:28 PM   #43
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I have a multimeter working now but no clue what to test.
Two things:

One; what's the battery voltage?

Two; those two terminals in the center photo are just screaming, test me. Positive to one of them and negative to any ground. If necessary use a long wire or even a jumper cable to get the negative lead back to a known ground or battery ground terminal.

Those results will point the direction to persue.

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Old 07-10-2020, 10:18 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
Two things:

One; what's the battery voltage?

Two; those two terminals in the center photo are just screaming, test me. Positive to one of them and negative to any ground. If necessary use a long wire or even a jumper cable to get the negative lead back to a known ground or battery ground terminal.

Those results will point the direction to persue.

Ron
The batteries are at full charge, about 12.8. (Just as the tester showed right before I plugged in the USB charger.) But now I’ve put back all the cushions and packed things over the seat so nothing more gets tested until I’m home and it’s cleaned up.
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Old 07-11-2020, 01:13 PM   #45
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When I got home, before I unhitched or turned off the car engine I checked- I had 12V with the car running and plugged into the trailer.
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Old 07-11-2020, 01:22 PM   #46
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Need to check the voltage on both sides of the rectangle breaker.
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Old 07-11-2020, 02:46 PM   #47
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Need to check the voltage on both sides of the rectangle breaker.
Not uncovered again yet.

But...trailer unhitched, not plugged in to house current.
Went to get fridge stuff and on a whim tried the lights. They work. 12V is on now.
Checked with tester- outlet inside has 12.8 volts.

Thinking something must be loose on the battery connection that shook "tight" on the 30 minute drive home (not long enough to fully charge the batteries and they were not dead anyway). (Or could be a loose connection elsewhere- but the batteries are the easiest place to start.)
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Old 07-11-2020, 03:42 PM   #48
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And checked again- off again. Checked the batteries and two of the wingnuts were loose so tightened them. Still out. Nothing at all moved except that I turned a few switches on and off inside between having power and not having it.
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Old 07-11-2020, 04:52 PM   #49
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When you say off are you saying -0- volts showing on your meter?
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Old 07-11-2020, 06:48 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
When you say off are you saying -0- volts showing on your meter?
Thursday, when 12V was on, plug in meter showed 12.8 volts. A few hours later when the 12V was off I plugged it in and nothing (it won't read if there is no current.)

Today when it came on I plugged in the meter and it showed 12.8 volts.

I did not check again after it went off again.

This is the device I'm using.

Still have to unpack so I can check the black box thing under the seat (with the two screws.)
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Old 07-11-2020, 06:58 PM   #51
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You need a multimeter to test the batteries like this https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Mult...NsaWNrPXRydWU=
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Old 07-11-2020, 07:06 PM   #52
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You need a multimeter to test the batteries like this https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Mult...NsaWNrPXRydWU=
That's pretty much like mine. I tested the batteries. When I had no 12V in the trailer the batteries were full at >12.8.
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Old 07-11-2020, 07:16 PM   #53
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Sounds like something’s definitely loose. Might be the ground, from battery to the frame. Probably a good starting point, then take that multimeter and start checking from the batteries forward until you find where the 12v quits.
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Old 07-12-2020, 08:19 AM   #54
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This little breaker hidden under my dinette seat failed on me. I replaced it with one from an auto supply store.
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Old 07-12-2020, 08:31 AM   #55
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This little breaker hidden under my dinette seat failed on me. I replaced it with one from an auto supply store.
Yes, I carry a spare with me. Mine went out when the inspector tested my emergency brake set up while hooked up.
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Old 07-12-2020, 11:47 AM   #56
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Sounds like something’s definitely loose. Might be the ground, from battery to the frame. Probably a good starting point, then take that multimeter and start checking from the batteries forward until you find where the 12v quits.
Do you know where that is? (I don't remember seeing one when I wired in the batteries.). The wiring diagram suggests it should come off the black wire somewhere- maybe right before it enters the trailer? Or after? (Downloadable pdf of diagram is somewhere earlier in this thread.)


I'm also unclear on where in this diagram the "cigarette lighter" plug is located. (Not sure if anything changed between 2011 and 2015.)
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Old 07-14-2020, 12:35 AM   #57
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that diagram doesn't show the DC fused circuits, your cigar plug would be on one of those, along with your DC lighting, water pump, fan, etc.
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Old 07-14-2020, 09:28 AM   #58
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Oops, here is page 2. But I don't think it does either. Still haven't gotten back into the wiring. Still off.
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Old 07-14-2020, 09:51 AM   #59
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It sounds like a bad connection at the battery , at the circuit breaker or at the converter .
Do NOT assume that Escape’s crimp terminations were done properly , I found several that were improperly crimped plus several of the bolted connections at the battery were barely snug !!
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Old 07-14-2020, 10:39 AM   #60
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Yeah, I remember the wiring for the CO/propane detector. But it is a 9 year old trailer so something working loose would not be surprising.
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