Sudden loss of 12V

[Bobbie54]

OK.. it WAS the splice where the 12V on off used to be. But new problem- while I can make the connection now, the little ring connector thing they sold me at the hardware store for the size wire will not crimp onto the wire. (Just too loose.) i tried a smaller on and same issue. might be lack of the proper tool as I can't find my crimper but wondering what people recommend? It's to attach to that threaded screw post from what I think is 14 gauge wire. Right now about 3/8 inch bare and not a lot of room to play with as far as stripping more so I'd like to just crimp it in to one of those ring-types. Type of connector and what part of the crimping tool to use? Any way to make it more secure?

Edit: I think the guy sold me 10-12 gauge when I told him 14 (and he had the wire there but he saw an old yellow one on it and didn't check.) But it was still hard to crimp the darn thing so I need to make sure I get a tool that will work. can't find the one I own even though the last place I used it was in the trailer.

[John in Santa Cruz]

this style crimper is pure junk.



for wires up to about 10 AWG, I use one like this (mine is a different brand, but same idea)


for stuff larger than 10 AWG, you need a ratchet crimper with the correct dies for the size and style crimps you're using, this gets more specialized.


also for very small wires with specialty connections, such as are used in electronics stuff, there's a variety of small specialized crimpers that are for specific crimp types.

[Bobbie54]

Thanks. what about the connectors? I got one like this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MhEjz32aEdE

(shown in video) but even though i also had a blue one i couldn't get it to hold the wire (maybe with the right tool though.)

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by Bobbie54

OK.. it WAS the splice where the 12V on off used to be. But new problem- while I can make the connection now, the little ring connector thing they sold me at the hardware store for the size wire will not crimp onto the wire. (Just too loose.) i tried a smaller on and same issue. might be lack of the proper tool as I can't find my crimper but wondering what people recommend? It's to attach to that threaded screw post from what I think is 14 gauge wire. Right now about 3/8 inch bare and not a lot of room to play with as far as stripping more so I'd like to just crimp it in to one of those ring-types. Type of connector and what part of the crimping tool to use? Any way to make it more secure?

Edit: I think the guy sold me 10-12 gauge when I told him 14 (and he had the wire there but he saw an old yellow one on it and didn't check.) But it was still hard to crimp the darn thing so I need to make sure I get a tool that will work. can't find the one I own even though the last place I used it was in the trailer.

Red = 18-22 AWG
Blue = 14-16 AWG
Yellow = 12-10 AWG

What you want is an indenter style crimper like John pictured
The crimp should be parallel with rhe barrel of the crimp termination NOT PERPENDICULAR

[Bobbie54]

Originally Posted by steve dunham

Red = 18-22 AWG
Blue = 14-16 AWG
Yellow = 12-10 AWG

What you want is an indenter style crimper like John pictured
The crimp should be parallel with rhe barrel of the crimp termination NOT PERPENDICULAR

Ok, I do not understand what you mean by parallel with the barrel. The video shows what I would consider perpendicular. do you mean crimp from the end?

[John in Santa Cruz]

p.s the red/blue/yellow crimp stuff, if you can find the MARINE grade ones, they are far superior than the junk normally sold in the hardware stores. red is for 22-18 AWG, blue is for 16-14 AWG, and yellow for 10-12 AWG.

the marine crimps have a special thick shrinkwrap that has an adhesive sealant that melts when you shrink them to make a waterproof seal around the wire insulation. example:
https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-So.../dp/B01DPS3ZBE

[Bobbie54]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

p.s the red/blue/yellow crimp stuff, if you can find the MARINE grade ones, they are far superior than the junk normally sold in the hardware stores. red is for 22-18 AWG, blue is for 16-14 AWG, and yellow for 10-12 AWG.

the marine crimps have a special thick shrinkwrap that has an adhesive sealant that melts when you shrink them to make a waterproof seal around the wire insulation. example:
https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-So.../dp/B01DPS3ZBE

I'll check on that. i could order them- now that I know what the problem is I have about six weeks before it has to be road-worthy.

[John in Santa Cruz]

crimping...


crimped....


and heat-shrunk...


(14AWG wire)

[Bobbie54]

Thanks.

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

crimping...


crimped....


and heat-shrunk...


(14AWG wire)

Thanks for posting the pictures

[Bobbie54]

Success! 12V working again. It was the splice and I bought a decent crimper and removed an extra few inches of wire so no cutting involved.

Thanks for everyone's help and advice. I'm glad it turned out to be an easy fix once I had the problem pinned down.

I think it picked that trip to do it because I put something in that storage area- usually it has been pretty much empty. I must have jiggled the splice.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by Bobbie54

I think it picked that trip to do it because I put something in that storage area- usually it has been pretty much empty. I must have jiggled the splice.

Glad that you found the problem. It's really easy to troubleshoot when it's black and white but your situation can cause an intermittent fault which can be more trouble to troubleshoot.

That's probably why several of us, upon seeing the black tape, said what's under the tape? That kind of situation always makes me suspicious.

Ron

[Bobbie54]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Glad that you found the problem. It's really easy to troubleshoot when it's black and white but your situation can cause an intermittent fault which can be more trouble to troubleshoot.

That's probably why several of us, upon seeing the black tape, said what's under the tape? That kind of situation always makes me suspicious.

Ron

Yep. It was what was under the tape. Well, I got a new tool out of it instead of paying someone to do it for me, so win-win.

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

... It's really easy to troubleshoot when it's black and white ...

I prefer red/black for DC wiring over black and white The Casita was all black/white, with ground/negative on white, and positive on black, ugh!

(heh).

[UncleTim]

Here is a connector you may not be aware of. They are called Wago connectors. I live in Colorado and about two years ago, the marijuana growers started to use these connectors due to a change to higher end, more efficient equipment. We learned about them from the growers.

I first started to see people use these connectors, about nine months ago for 12v trailer lights, but quickly their usefulness spread to all sorts of things. In my shop, I keep three different sizes. They are suitable for both 120v as well as 12v. They are waterproof and listed for exterior application. You can use them on trailer lighting systems.

They are reversible, meaning you can open them and take the wire back out and re insert the wire, if you want. This is not a one time connector, they are reusuable. Here is a link at Amazon to purchase them. There are a couple of companies that make them. Highly recommended.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=wago+leve...nb_sb_ss_i_1_5

[jadams]

I was having a 12 volt power loss issue in my 17 B and I found the info on this thread to be really helpful. Thank you everyone!

Glad to hear you fixed you're issue Bobbie54.

[ksitte]

I too have been using the WAGO lever nuts whenever I can in our Escape. Easy to use and, so far, have been reliable for 2+ years on with "a whole lot of shaking going on" over Montana roads & campgrounds.

[Bobbie54]

And.. it's out again.

If you look at this reply https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...tml#post343885. I had removed that obvious splice and reconnected the newly crimped O ring (a new one) to the post (whatever that is that has the two screw posts). It had worked.

Move the trailer to the garage, sometime after that it stopped working.

If I test those two posts (separately) with the ground I get 0.64 V. (I got 3.3V before when it wasn't working.) What is that thing and should I replace it? (Edit- I think someone called it the auto reset fuse. Is that right, and what does it do, and should I replace it? And should I put in a new on/off switch? (What advantage does that have?)
There is another taped up connection- no idea what it is, it is in the same bundle of wires. Can't wiggle it so don't know if it is a likely culprit, no wire showing to test.

What is the square metal box?

Fuses seem okay- I pulled them but no lights come on when I do.

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by Bobbie54

And.. it's out again.

If you look at this reply https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...tml#post343885. I had removed that obvious splice and reconnected the newly crimped O ring (a new one) to the post (whatever that is that has the two screw posts). It had worked.

Move the trailer to the garage, sometime after that it stopped working.

If I test those two posts (separately) with the ground I get 0.64 V. (I got 3.3V before when it wasn't working.) What is that thing and should I replace it?

There is another taped up connection- no idea what it is, it is in the same bundle of wires. Can't wiggle it so don't know if it is a likely culprit, no wire showing to test.

What is the square metal box?

Fuses seem okay- I did not pull them yet but no lights.

The metal box shown in the photo you referenced is a utility or handy box
Based on the fact that the cables entering the handy box appear to be NM cable, that it is being used as a junction / splice box for 120 VAC circuits
I would take a volt meter and read from each post to 12 volt negative / ground or you could remove the wires from both posts and read across the device with an ohmmeter.

[Bobbie54]

Originally Posted by Greg A

I would think it would have to be a battery cutoff switch or a fuse on the inbound line from the battery. If not simple like a battery cutoff or the inline fuse at the battery, Multimeter tracing from the battery back will be what needs to happen until you find where the 12v ceases.
Converter usually has 30A fuses, If any of those are blown it would cause the entire 12v to be out. If 12v is live into the converter then those fuses would be the suspect.

Just an aside, long term project is the electrical tape covering splices or ?? needs to be looked at and redone. That main positive line with the electrical tape hiding something is a bit worrisome.
Not sure what the other electrical tape wrapped deal is either. Looks like some type of splices that are being covered up.

First paragraph: How do I check 12V into the converter? I did note when I pulled fuses before I had a light on for one, now no lights when I pull them.


Second paragraph: the second splice is another suspect but doesn't seem at all loose so not my first point of attack. (First one initially fixed the 12V.)